Oil filter failure
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43707
Printed Date: 12 Sep 2025 at 1:32pm
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Topic: Oil filter failure
Posted By: Denis in MI
Subject: Oil filter failure
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 4:10pm
My new D-14 showed good oil pressure on the gauge and I guess it had plenty.  Anybody know what caused this or how to correct it I don't want to do this to many times, because filters aren't cheap. Thanks for any help or opinions. ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 4:21pm
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Maybe your relief valve is frozen??? Was it a new filter, maybe it was defective??
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 4:32pm
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It wasn't brand new, but I don't know how old because I just got the tractor. It will peg the gauge when first started but comes down to the middle or slightly higher once it is warm. ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Chad(WI)
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 4:39pm
| Boy, never seen that. Almost looks like it froze somehow? |
Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 4:55pm
| The relief valve somewhere is stuck. There is one in the oil pump and another at the front of the camshaft. When I bought my ol14 the oil gauge was rusty so I stuck one on from a car that read 80 psi. When it warmed up it wouldn't show any pressure so I put a washer behind the spring in the oil pump and I had great pressure but when the weather started getting cooler it would do the filters just like that. I took out the washer and got a gauge made for low pressure and it was fine. That was thirty years ago. I doubt anything was wrong with the filter. Wix is a high quality filter even though for some reason a few years ago they changed the design on the AC filter for awhile and it gave them a bad name. The one you have is the good one and I have never had a problem with them and I use mine to feed hay every other day in winter. Hope this helps.JP |
Posted By: farmtoybuilder
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 5:13pm
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I would be putting a test guage on it that shows pressure in #s and see exactly what it has. But it sounds like you have an oil pressure relief valve problem. As most only run half way on guage. a little more cold/ Our old D-14 engine is low on oil pressure gauge never goes over half cold. ------------- 5 different TT-10's,5 TT-18's Terra Tigers,B-10,2 B-207's,B-110,2 B-112's,HB-112,B-210,B-212,HB212,2 Scamp's & Homilite T-10. Still hunting NICE HB-112 & anything Terra Tiger & Trailers for them. |
Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 5:21pm
| I would screw it off and look for ice/water. |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 5:30pm
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I didn't see any water or ice and there was no unscrewing it. It blew right off the base. ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: R.W
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 6:42pm
| I have heard of that happing a few times. Faulty oil filter or a plugged up filter that had a bad relief valve. |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 6:52pm
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I think I'm going to change the oil to 5-30 and swap a filter off one of my WD's on it in case it blows that out too and see what she does in the morning. Is the pressure relief accesable from the outside like the 201 and 226 engines? ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 7:07pm
| I could be wrong, but I think the oil filter should have been of the cotton nature, and that is what is supposed to build up a little resistance and give you oil pressure. I know it sounds strange, but there was much discussion on the topic a few years ago and I believe it pertained to D14's and 17's. Maybe someone that knows more will chime in. Only thing that don't add up though, is that a faulty oil filter would cause a lack of oil pressure. Darrel |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 9:41pm
| Have saw this happen on a D15. Ball in front of cam shaft was stuck. MACK |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 10:12pm
| But, a D14 should be the "bypass" oil filtering system with the standpipe up thru the center ( like a WD45)......is the hole from the filter base to the block plugged so oil can't get out??? |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 10:15pm
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You have to take the radiator off to get at the pressure relief valve. There is a square plate, on the timing cover, that must be removed, very carefully, and a spring and ball are behind the thrust plunger. My plunger was rusted really bad and I replaced it when I overhauled the engine.
Bob
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Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 7:32am
| Didn't you say you just bought it? I wouldn't do anything to it until I changed the oil and put on a new filter. If you don't know what it has in it then it could have maybe 50 weight racing oil or something in it to keep good pressure. This works good as long as you drain it before winter. I ran mine for about 25 years til I finally done a complete rebuild on it. I used to use the heavy racing oil and it would hold pretty good pressure all summer but you had to get it out before cold weather. I used to have a car I did the same thing with but like I say it had to come out for the winter.JP |
Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 7:37am
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Darrell, I don't know why that material looks like that but they do have the cotton in them. I use the Wix 57011 and it is the proper filter for the D14 and others.JP
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Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 8:23am
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I think I am going to swap change the oil out and try some 5w30 and see what that does for pressure. ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 10:09am
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I'd also make sure it's above freezing when you start it up..............just to be safe. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 1:06pm
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New 5w30 oil had no effect. I stuck on a old filter to see what happened and it started to swell up so I shut her down. I guess I need to start looking into what is causing this. I noticed that there is oil in the base where the filter mounts and it drains away slowly, but it doesn't seem to be restricted. I see a small plate on the timing cover with four nuts retaining it, is this the plate that holds the pressure relief valve? it seems that it would be accessible without removing the radiator, can I just pop the plate off and check to see if there are any shims and remove the ball and spring to check them over or is it possible to loose pieces in to the engine this way? Thanks for all the help so far, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 3:13pm
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Is the bypass filter on the drain side of the pressure relief valve? Then it should drain to the crankcase and never see much pressure. Isn't that why the paper filter failed, it let too much oil flow freely so the regulator didn't hold oil pressure? If that's the case then that drain line is plugged, probably with chunks of the previous filter filling. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 6:14pm
| The filter puts back pressure on the system. That is why the "new design" Wix came out with a few years ago didn't work right. I still don't why they did that. The oil pump has a relief in it and the cam does too but I can't think how it all works. I do know when I shimmed the valve in my oil pump it swelled the filters up.JP |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2012 at 5:11pm
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Ok, so I put a magnetic heater on the oil pan and left it until the oil was good and hot then I tried to fire it up. It started up fine and made the gauge go about 3/4 of the way to maxing out. This was ok because it didn't affect the filter. So I drove it in the shop to investigate. My plan is to pull the radiator out and check the relief valve. Is there anything else I should check while its apart? Thanks for all the help so far, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Tony.Or
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2012 at 5:57pm
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Denis. Check for correct thickness plate end of cam. Albert had this problem last summer , i sent correct thickness plate , problem solved. No more ruined filters . Tony ------------- http://www.tonystractors.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.tonystractors.com |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2012 at 6:10pm
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So I pulled it apart and found out that the "Thrust Plate" as it is called in my shop manual, is missing, it is the piece that goes between the "Thrust Plunger" and the Cover. From what I can figure I should have the opposite of my problem with that piece missing. So I am a bit confused at the moment. Any ideas? Thanks, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 8:53am
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Can any body shed some light on how the D14 oil system works? I was under the impression that it is a bypass filtration system, but I only see one line coming out of the pump then it goes into the filter base. I don't see any other outlet for oil to come out of the pump? Thanks, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 9:10am
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Oil pump is located at rear end of cam. and I believe most of the oil is pumped through a passageway inside cam. Gary
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 1:02pm
One line goes to the filter base and is fed through the filter and teed to the pressure gauge. Back pressure on the filter limits how much oil goes through it. What doesn't go through the filter gets pumped through the engine internally. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Denis in MI wrote:Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 2:28pm
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So does oil come out of the pump in two places or just the one line that I can see, I assume that the filter base is made just like the ones on the B,C,WC,WD,WD45 and just dumps back to the crankcase? ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 5:53pm
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OK, So I most certainly have a oil pressure issue. I installed a gauge that has numbers and I have well over 100 PSI at the oil filter base and the port on the side of the block. I am using 5w30 oil and the temperature outside is about 24. The relief valve is unseating because it is leaking oil out of its cover, so I don't really know where to turn from here. Any ideas? Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 6:49pm
| Remove the base and make absitively sure the hole into the block is open and can easily let air blow thru it and the base is free flowing as well to the block. |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 9:19pm
Would a restriction at the filter base cause the excessive pressure at the oil line outlet on the side of the block? Thanks for all the help so far, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 9:46pm
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If the base is open to the crankcase as it should be, the extra oil will bypass through the filter and the pressure would never get that high. You might still have a problem with the relief valve. It should also leak back into the sump if the pressure is too high. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 9:56pm
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I removed the pressure relief valve and started the engine, with the ball and spring removed I read right in the middle of the factory gauge at the oil filter base and my 100 PSI gauge barely moves measuring at the port on the side of the block. I'm kind of confused and scratching my head on this one boys. The spring for the pressure relief valve seems very lite as far as pressure to compress and the "thrust plate" that is supposed to go between the cover and the plunger is missing so the springs are far less shimmed than they should be. Any Ideas? Thanks, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 10:06pm
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So you have no spring or ball in the relief and no filter on the base and you get 15 PSI ? ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 10:11pm
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I have the filter on, but no relief valve in it and still have about 15 psi. Hope that clears it up. Thanks again, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 10:18pm
| You still have the relief valve in the pump. Bob |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 10:31pm
| I'm not there looking at it, but, you seem to have something seriously wrong here. A D15 engine has a different oil pump/filtering system than a D14 does. A D14 oil pump is camshaft driven at the rear and 80% to 90% ? of all the oil is pumped directly into the hollow camshaft up against the ball and spring in the front camshaft nose and is pressurized. The hollow camshaft has three cam bearings and they take oil from the hollow cam to the main and rod bearings. The hollow camshaft is the main oil galley. You are getting little to zero oil to your bearings as you describe it!!!!! The remaining 10% to 20% of the oil comes out thru the single external small diameter tube and up thru the filter base small vertical tube for the slow cotton type filtering process and then clean oil returns thru a hole in the block to sump. A D15 engine is similar but very different. All 100% the oil of a D15 comes out of the pump thru the external steel tube (3/8" diameter) and thru the filter base (different base than a D14) thru the larger full-flow paper filter (Fram PH8A) and then OUT of the base thru another external 3/8" diameter steel tube and into a brass 90 degree elbow into the block at the center canshaft brg location. 100% of the oil goes thru the filter and enters the hollow camshaft at the center cam brg for distribution of all filtered oil to the center-front-rear cam brgs and then the mains and rods. The ball and spring still regulate oil pressure inside the hollow camshaft. It's like somebody has installed a D15 pump on a D14 engine...????? |
Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 10:35pm
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I use Wix filters pretty much all the time. A few years ago I got one of the paper element filters for the G and had almost no oil pressure. Took it back when the auto supply was having a Wix promotion with factory reps. Gave them a hard time and they said it was the tractor, not their filter but he gave me a couple of the rag packed filters and the oil pressure was back to normal. Wouldn't admit it but at the time but I think Wix dropped the paper filter. You might take that blown one back to the parts place, they will probably replace it for free, even if it wasn't the filter's fault. ------------- "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" Allis Express participant |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 10:49pm
I was thinking this too, but I installed my gauge to check pressure at the port on the block that appears to be where the center cam bearing is located. I removed the T fitting that feeds oil to the valve train and the governor and installed the gauge and I still measure 100 PSI + at this point with the relief valve installed. So if I understand correctly I must have a D-14 pump if I have oil pressure at the cam bearing? Oil does pump through the camshaft and I can look down it and see all the way to the oil pump so I don't have any blockages there. So in theory I shouldn't have oil pressure at the cam bearing with the relief valve removed (which I may not, I couldn't see the gauge move but thought it might have wiggled a little), but I should have it at the oil filter base correct? ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 10:59pm
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Here's a thought that just crossed my mind. Do the D-14 and D-15 use different relief valve spring? If they do is it possible that the relief valve spring was replaced with one from a D-15? ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 11:01pm
| A properly working D14 filtering system will have a small volume of oil coming up into the cotton filter and running freely back into the side of the block. The only pressure there is comes from the resistance of the cotton filtering media. A new filter shows less oil pressure than an old dirty filter. The gauge only reflects what is going on inside the filter, not necessarily the rest of the engine. You have to have a higher than normal volume of oil coming to the filter to cause this much pressure at the filter area. Put that ball and spring back where it belongs to at least keep pressure to all mains and rods. Funny the pressure regulator is missing a part.....it's like there's been something wrong for a long time???? |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 11:08pm
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Yes I am going to put everything back, I only removed the ball and spring to see what would happen and only ran the engine for 10-15 seconds at the most with it removed. I was under the impression that the oil system on this tractor worked very similar to a B/C and those have two lines coming off of the pump outlet that comes out through the bell housing. I thought maybe this should, but it only has the one line that runs to the bottom of the filter base. Thanks again, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 11:26pm
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D14 and D15 camshaft pressure regulator and camshaft thrust spring parts are all the same.....two springs on each and a ball, thrust plate etc....all that stuff is identical. The oil pumps are different !!! ...the D15 has a small ball and spring inside the rotor called a pressure regualtor (I assume for cold oil starts and allows oil to go directly to the hollow camshaft) and the D14 does not have this. Oil pump is a 70237078 for D15 and 70228128 for D14 oil pump. |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 11:30pm
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So is there any way to tell which pump is in it without splitting the tractor? ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 11:45pm
| The pipe coming up out of the clutch housing on a D14 is only 1/8 pipe, and the D15 pump is bigger maybe 1/4'' pipe. I suppose somebody could have adapted the D14 plumbing to the D15 pump and all the oil is trying the go through the filter like Dr Allis said, and the cold safety relief is letting enough through into the cam and has kept the engine from seizing. |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 11:50pm
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I am pretty sure that the pipe coming out is 1/8" but I will look in the morning to be sure. The only thing that doesn't make sense is why would I have the 100 PSI+ at the center cam bearing? Thanks for all the help, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: JonnyWalton
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 12:49am
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He How do you get the oil filter out to 1973 HD6EP it seems that they don't give you enough room to pull the housing out? Any Ideas where oil drain plug is. Do you need to take the rock Shields off to get to it? |
Posted By: Mactractor
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 1:35am
| After you have removed the engine side panel (on top of frame rail) and the center bolt that draws the housing up to gasket, tilt the housing slightly, then it comes right out. Rock shields have small plates bolted in to the center. Remove the small plate. Drain plug is right there. |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 9:04am
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Well, the pump seems correct. So if we assume it is, where is the next place to start looking for my issue? Is it possible that with the cam thrust plate missing the cam is walking forward and blocking the oil passages on the front or rear bearings? Thanks for all the help, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Gatordoc
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 9:21am
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Could it have spun the cam bearing? |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 10:12am
I sure hope not. So if the pressure at the filter and the engine oil pressure are two different things, does the relief valve control pressure at the filter too? I also noticed that it seems to push the guts out of the filter, like the oil can't go through the filter fast enough. Or is it possible that the cam is walking forward and not leaving sufficient clearance to let the excess oil drain once it passes the relief valve? Thanks again, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 10:22am
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Cam shifting to cut off the oil from the cam bearings is a good possibility. With helical gears its going to shift if not restrained. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Rawleigh
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 11:52am
| Especially without the thrust plate! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 12:22pm
Oil pressure is one thing, there are not 2 different pressures. The whole system is connected together. If you have a blockage at a cam bearing, which sounds highly likely, the relief may not be letting enough volume out and the rest can't get past the filter fast enough. The cam is a lot easier to check out and work on than the crank and rod bearings and you will be doing all of them eventually if there is a blockage to the cam from the supply. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 12:25pm
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I guess the place to start is to find a thrust plate and go from there. If that doesn't cure it I guess I'll have to tear it down and see whats going on. Thanks for the help. ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 1:16pm
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Does anybody have a "Thrust Plate" that they want to part with. I'm sure I can get one from AGCO but I would rather give my hard earned money to another site member or a supporter of this site. Thanks, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 1:20pm
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Don't the 'rod' bearings get their oil from oil being sprayed out tiny holes in the cam ? Gary
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 5:22pm
| That's only on B-C-CA-RC engines. |
Posted By: David (in Mi.)
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 6:20pm
| You wouldn't have any rods or mains if you don't get this fixed. It really does sound more and more like the cam bushing have turned and blocking all oil from rest of engine. |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 10:37pm
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The part that you need is the "plunger" thrust, and it should be the same in any CE series engine. You also need a spring to go with it. 1 spring fits inside of the other.
That could solve all of your problems. If the cam moves front, and it will, it could block the oil holes. I didn't think that pump would put out that much presure. I also didn't realize that the D14 pump didn't have the spring and ball in the drive shaft. I just worked on a D15 and I knew it used them. So that means the front ball and spring regulates the pressure for the whole engine. Bob
|
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 10:15am
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So is it possible to line up the hole in the camshaft with the hole in the bearing/block and use a piece of wire to see if the passage is open? Or do I need to tear the engine down? Thanks, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 12:02pm
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I'll put my two cents in here. And that's about all it's worth. lol
I'm thinking you have a D-15 oil pump in a D14 engine and you will not have the right oil pressure if it's a D15 pump in there you have no relief and that's what's making the high oil pressure. I'd pull the oil pump out and check the part number on the pump and see if it's a D14 or a D15 pump. Running that high oil pressure will wash out the bearings. Over the years the wrong repairs get done to old tractors, cars, trucks that make fixing them harder that just doing the normal repairs on them.
------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 12:30pm
| You'll have to at least remove the camshaft to be able to see if any of the cam bearings have turned. In this case, that would probably mean pulling the engine and laying it on it's side to keep the lifters up out of the way after removing the rocker arm shaft. It also would allow you to yank the clutch/flywheel and oil pump to verify which pump it really is internally (could have a D14 cover on a D15 body...who knows). |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 12:40pm
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I guess I will get the thrust plate and try it first but I doubt it is causing my problem. Looks like I'll be tearing down this tractor after all, its a shame if the bearing is actually spun because the engine was supposed to have been overhauled a couple years ago. I also talked to the previous owner and he never had this problem, and he replaced the pump during the overhaul with a brand new pump from AGCO that was identical in every way to the one that was removed. I don't know if its true or not, but someone mentioned that the D-15 pump would have a larger discharge pipe through the bell housing where the D-14 would have a smaller pipe the same size as a B/C which is what mine has. Thanks, Denis ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |