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cost of wd engine

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43545
Printed Date: 09 Sep 2025 at 12:45am
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Topic: cost of wd engine
Posted By: maurice
Subject: cost of wd engine
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 6:09pm
What kind of price should I expect to pay for an engine for my Allis WD?  And where might a good source be?  I'm not good at working inside the engine but have all the working external engine parts.
Thanks



Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 7:18pm
Depends a lot on what you want. I've seen "running when pulled" engines from $300 but what have you got when you install it? I don't know what a rebuilt engine would cost but I know what I have in mine. I did all the machine work except grinding the crank(paid for that)and I had all the parts except a new water pump and clutch. I have over $1300 and a lot of time in it.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 6:41am
As Chas said, a running engine could be good or not so good. It depends greatly on the condition of the engine itself. On a rebuild, if the engine has a lot of issues internally, its gonna cost more to get those issues addressed. There are other options that you can apply also to those old engines such as align boring the mains to eliminate the shims. Again, costs some dough, but builds reliability in the engine. It depends on your wallet size also. You could spend a lot of money on an engine no matter what it's in....
mailto:Steve@B&B - Steve@B&B


Posted By: cornbinder
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 6:51am
you could buy a whole tractor (w-d or a 45)  for what u could wrap up in a rebuild. i've seen lots of wd's and 45's advertised for $1200-$1800 that are mechanically ready to put to work, and use yours for parts. just my .02

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D-19 gas w/f-sold
185-d yr round cab
95 mustang gt 5.0
86 mustang 5.0 coupe
3 99 f-250 7.3 4x4's
96 f-250 7.3 4x4



Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 7:35am
Cornbinder hit the nail on the head.  Rebuilding an engine is expensive and you can buy a good working tractor for less money but you are taking some risk on your own abilities to know if the engine in that tractor is in good shape because it may be in the same boat as your current engine shortly down the road.  If your current engine block is not cracked where it can be rebuilt and you have the means to get it out of the tractor and to the rebuilder then that is the other option but it will cost more but will also be good for a long long time.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson


Posted By: Josh Day
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 7:45am
No better time to learn about motors then now. I never knew anything about motors untill my dad and I tore down our WD motor. Now I'm completle rebuliding my great great grandmothers green bean (John Deere) model A. It may cost more to rebulid it, but at least you have the satisfaction that it was done right, and it will last a long time.


Posted By: maurice
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 5:02am

I've torn down 2 WD engines about 10 years ago, both needed machining, so I took both to an engine shop where he took best of both to make 1.  Now that one has water in the oil.  I've taken the head off twice looking for it.  I just don't have the know-how and tools.  Just looking for something reliable.  My wife likes to mow with the WD, over the years she has been frustrated by all the times it would not start for variety of reasons.  She just wants something that starts and runs.  With 2 WD's in the yard (when one ran, it was kept inside) she does not agree with buying more whole WD tractors.  (And I am fine with that because she lets me get any tools, supplies, hobbies, etc my heart desires!)



Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 6:54am
Just a thought look at the freeze plugs in the top of the head.


Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 7:35am
Wish you were closer I'd take em both off your hands and you could start over!!


Posted By: SteveC(NS)
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 8:06am
Maurice, ole bud, give it some time. Somebody close like Fla or SoCal will come up with just what you want.
Meanwhile look at the frost plugs in the head (under the valve cover). I fear it may be O'rings at the bottom of the cyl. liners (If wds had  'em). Do you remember if the engine rebuilder put in any or all new sleeves?


Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 10:09am
These engines are pretty simple to overhaul, remember the design dates to the 1930s, when most mechanic work was done under a shade tree.  The trickiest part is the rear main seal and the end gaskets on the pan.  Some plastigage to confirm clearances as you assemble the bottom end, and hand tools is about all you need.

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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 10:41am
Originally posted by maurice maurice wrote:

 1.  Now that one has water in the oil.  I've taken the head off twice looking for it.  I just don't have the know-how and tools.


Definitely take the rocker arm cover off and look at the core plugs in the top of the head. When they rust out, the coolant level is about 3 inches above them in the radiator  so coolant goes to the sump. Many times that is the cause of coolant in the oil and might cost a couple dollars to fix.



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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: maurice
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 7:07pm
Done looked at those freeze plugs, that's why I looked twice for the leak.  Can't remember if I posted that here or on MBN.  There were cracks between the sleeves.  Steve, yes, I think it may be those sleeve o-rings.  No, the rebuild 10 some years ago did not need sleeves.  It looses way more than 3" of water from the radiator.  But we have not ran it in about a year.  Each time I do have to run it, I drain the "oil" and get almost 5 gallons.
Thanks everyone!


Posted By: chalmers200
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 5:08am
I Have a WD I boughtfot the tires and rims. The engine seems good. carries good oil pressure. Does need manifold gaskets and a tune-up. Will sell as apartstractor for 425.00


Posted By: SteveC(NS)
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 7:55am
Hey Maurice, if I lived in IN I'd beat ya to it! LOL



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