Farm Equipment - Wet Cylender extension

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Wet Cylender extension

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43175
Printed Date: 19 Jul 2025 at 4:15am
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Topic: Wet Cylender extension

Posted By: oldchalmersiron
Subject: Wet Cylender extension
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 10:44pm

Does anyone know how far an aluminum Tisco cylinder sleeve should extend from an allis WD block (I.E. the lip). It says in the manual 2 to 4 thousandths, but would these have different tolerances? Any input is greatly appreciated!

Replies:

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 8:18am

First of all they would not be aluminum sleeves, they would be cast iron. The pistons would be aluminum. If they were properly made(which I assume they are) they would stand out .002-.004. MACK

Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 1:25pm

If your counterbores are right and the deck is flat, the sleeves need to be between .002 and .004 of an inch above the deck. That is the complete tolerance. If the sleeves are right and they don't protrude that amount, you have a problem with your deck.

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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Posted By: oldchalmersiron
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 2:39pm

Yeah...mine are set about 12 thousandths above the block. is there any way to pound, shave, or make a head gasket seal properly on the cylenders without taking it in to a machine shop? thanks to all who have posted and I appreciate all responses!

Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 5:27pm

I don't know what the C'bore is supposed to be but .012 doesn't sound good. I would find out first what is wrong. Do the sleeves having too big of a flange? If so, talk to your supplier. If your C'bore is shallow, machine it down. If all the sleeves fit the same and you want a cheap fix, take .008 to .009 off the top of the sleeves or the back of the flange.

Make sure there isn't a radius in the inner corner of the flange that is keeping the sleeve from seating flat on the flange.

-------------
http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Posted By: oldchalmersiron
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 6:32pm

Thanks! but i have a couple more questions: Should I bring it in to a machine shop or what should I do to get that 8 to 9 thousandths off the block? could maybe previous owners decked or shaved the top of the block to many times and allowed the cylinder to stick up that much extra?

Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 6:45pm

Pounding is NOT a good idea-- as CTucker said make sure everything is clean!! It's possible your block was "decked" at some point and then they cut the liners down to get 2-4 thousands protrusion?

Posted By: oldchalmersiron
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 6:50pm

Funny. You just answeered some of my questions I was typing up and editing in! The machine shop I took the block to shaved a little metal off the top and had it magnafluxed and all cracks fixed. More than likely that is what happened. This is going to be an adventure because i have it all together except the head. Thanks for your posts though!!!!!!!!!!

Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 7:34pm

It is called the school of hard knocks. All of that should be checked before assembly. Counter bore depth of the block should be checked in several places around each hole. The sleeve should be set down in the hole and able to turn 360 degrees without O rings and the height of the sleeve checked above the block.

Just some of the mere details needed to be looked at when rebuilding any engine with wet sleeves.

No one gets all the details in their mind on the first rebuild. Might miss some after dozens of rebuilds. There are problems though if you make the same mistake a dozen times in a row. (:^D

Posted By: oldchalmersiron
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 7:42pm

Even harder when youre 15! and this truly this is youre first rebuild! At least I know that I am not the only person who does this... thanks for the support!

Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 7:49pm

Don't be afraid to ask questions at every step. You will get support here from many knowledgeable engine mechanics as well as a few old duffers like me that have made more mistakes than you would care to hear about.

What ever you do don't give up.

Posted By: oldchalmersiron
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 8:26pm

Sure will ask questions, but I sure will not give up! thanks!

Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 9:07pm

There is a tool made for cutting the counterbore depth. Safest way is to disassemble engine and plug your oil gallery holes. Make sure all shaving are out before reassembly. good shop should have had the sleeves to do this from the start. HTH Tracy Martin

Posted By: Rawleigh
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 9:01am

I don't have anything to add except persevere and ask lots of questions (preferably BEFORE the work is commenced). Don't be afraid to ask and don't be put off if you get a few gruff replies. We can be a little cantankerous around here some times!!