D17 Brakes
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43158
Printed Date: 04 Sep 2025 at 2:29pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D17 Brakes
Posted By: 79fordblake
Subject: D17 Brakes
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 5:41pm
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The neighbors 60' D17 needs brakes and I found some more bad news today when I removed the brake covers......drum is trashed on one side. So final drive needs to be removed. I know it is normal to have trouble getting the pins out of the brakes and that it might have to be drilled and tapped to get it out. What pullers do you guys use? I don't have one that will work in this situation. Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 6:12pm
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What I have done, if I plan on putting a new pin in, is soak everything I can from the brake rod hole, let it sit a few days, then lightly put a pipe wrench on the little bit that sticks out, most times that will get it, if not, most on here I have heard weld something on so there is more meat to pull from. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 7:25pm
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Do you have access to a welder? I welded a 3/8 bolt to the pins on mine, slipped a deep well socket over the bolt, and was able to draw the pins right out. I carefully cut the weld around the head of the pins and you would never know I was there. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: dualquads
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 8:56pm
| I used a Dremel tool to grind flat spots on opposite sides of the pin and then used a crescent wrench to turn the pin and loosen it. Replaced pins with new at re-assembly. |
Posted By: Burgie
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 5:11am
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Sometimes nothing works!! That is when you use the smoke wrench and cut them out. ------------- "Burgie" |
Posted By: 79fordblake
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 4:54pm
| Somebody was shining down on me today. I removed the fasteners that keep the pins in place. Took a pair of vice grips and with no effort at all the pins slid right out on both sides. :) |
Posted By: 79fordblake
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 11:59pm
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I see in the manual that it says it can be easier and faster to break the drum than it is to pull it off the shaft. The drum on one side is toast...big grooves from being metal to metal. What should I do to break it? Wear some eye protection and slap it with a sledge? I'm not removing the final drive from the other side....the other drum is in great shape. Waiting on all the parts to come right now. |
Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 4:22am
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Don't break it till you know you have a good replacement. LOL ------------- When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!! |
Posted By: Gatz in NE
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 9:06am
Here's what we used to do to get the drum off after removing the final from tractor.
Lay the final down on floor and support the drum with some hardwood blocks. Carefully break the drum flanges off with a heavy hammer (like a 2#). Then break the web off as close to the hub as practical; all the while supporting the drum (& eventually what's left of it) by the hardwood blocks. Drill a hole in the hub right over, and to the key. (a 5/16 or 11/32" will do, depending on what you might have available for a tapered punch) approx 3/4" from the edge of the longest part of the hub. What you want to do is get the hub to crack by forcing the tapered punch into the hole where the keyway is. Once it is cracked, it comes off easily.
Even a centerpunch would work as long as it's got some taper to it and you size the drilled hole accordingly.
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To install a new drum, make sure the snap-ring is still in place.
Use a rosebud to heat the drum up evenly (you don't want to crack the new one !)
Don't overheat. It should be hot enough to freely slide on the axle (this will require welding gloves to handle) Make sure the drum goes on the right direction (for the snap ring)
The tricky part is 3-fold..... getting it to slide on the axle shaft - aligned with the key - and pushed up against the snap ring.
Have a piece of steel tubing of sufficient length that will fit over the axle and a sledge at the ready to drive the drum "home"... it's very possible for the drum to hang up on the axle before it gets to the snap ring.
Yes, wear eye protection !
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79fordblake wrote:Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 10:00am
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I hammer off what's left of the contact surface. Then I use a cut off wheel on an angle grinder to cut deep notches into the webbing opposite of each other. Then I put a cold chisel right down one and give it a smack. Splits them in half (usually :) JimD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |