Winter Project - 190XT Power Director - Help Pleas
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42879
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Topic: Winter Project - 190XT Power Director - Help Pleas
Posted By: Reed(UT)
Subject: Winter Project - 190XT Power Director - Help Pleas
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 7:02pm
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I checked the pressure on both ports on the valve, and had pressure when the stick was in low and high ranges I have the valve and inspection plate removed, and can see the PD. The plates on the front of the PD have a bit of play (3/32"), and everything seems to look fine. Anyone that can offer some input on this would be appreciated. I will split the tractor if I need to, but want to avoid it if possible. Thanks!    ------------- 2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA |
Replies:
Posted By: AaronH
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 7:10pm
| how much pressure was on each side. If I remember... should be 280-300 psi. good lookin 190. |
Posted By: Reed(UT)
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 7:13pm
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From memory, about 250-275 each side. Can I apply compressed air to the ports to see if I get any action on the clutch-pack? ------------- 2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA |
Posted By: captaindana
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 7:17pm
| Reed my buddy has not had his 190 delivered yet from the auction. I will post what he finds as soon as he tears into it. But that doesn't help you now. Dana |
Posted By: AaronH
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 7:20pm
| thats enough to make it work correctly. As far as the compressed air, you prolly can, but this part is over my head. not sure if it would properly diagnose the problem. I know someone here can tell us. |
Posted By: Reed(UT)
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 7:21pm
Dana, I got your PM a while back, then got busy and forgot to answer! As I get through this project, i will keep you posted -- maybe it will help your buddy. Reed BTW, I am about 30 miles south of SLC airport. I am working at Kennecott right now - take a look at it next time you fly in. http://www.kennecott.com/visitors-center/take-a-virtual-tour/?id=2531 - www.kennecott.com ------------- 2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA |
captaindana wrote:Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 7:42pm
| Check it with air pressure and observe how the plates compress. Look real closely at high range plates and the distance between and how they sit in the housing. It sounds to me like you have one or two broken and possibly a couple with at least on side of the facing gone. Just was in a 180 this spring, slipped in low, one plate broken, facing missing on another plate-what a miserable dog to work on with that Year A Round cab!!!! |
Posted By: Reed(UT)
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 8:05pm
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Is it possible to work on the PD without splitting the tractor? ------------- 2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA |
Posted By: DaveCinIN
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 8:15pm
| When I lost high range in mine it was a snap ring in the valve came off. |
Posted By: Dean(IA)
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 9:26pm
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The above diagnosis is probably correct. You will have to split the tractor. Don't go to all the work to remove the platform. After you have unhooked all the necessary lines and connections, Take all the bolts out holding the platform except the 2 in front. Take the nuts off and remove the lock washers. Then put the nuts back on just even with the end of the bolt. Jack up the back of the platform just far enough to clear. Make angle iron supports and bolt them from platform to just touching the floor, but in FRONT of the axles. Then you can proceed to split the tractor. Of course, support the front half adequately. You must remove the short extensions on the hydraulic lines that come out through the opening where you removed the control valve. It is a bit complicated, but I'm sure you can figure out all the things you need to take loose. When you get in there, taking the PD apart is a process that you need to make sure you follow the instructions in the repair manual, or it won't come apart. I sure hope that is somewhat helpful information. Dean(IA) |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 9:31pm
| Sounds like it broke all the plates on Hi side. Rotate the PD and see if pkates rotare with PD. If they do the plates are broke. If they are broke might as well replace the torque tube shaft and gear that is splined to it. MACK |
Posted By: AndrewGubbels
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 9:49pm
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I agree with skip if you need any parts along the way just let me know. Or if you have any questions I am sure put a post on the page or send a PM. Good luck they arent to bad at all to split. If you need tips if it gets to that point I have a few.
andy ------------- Andrew Gubbels Gubbels Restoration |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 10:08pm
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I've never seen an air cleaner like that on a 190 before... ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: Reed(UT)
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 4:44pm
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It looks like all the high-side plates are broken. Should I replace anything besides the high-side plates while I am in here? Mack, what is the torque tube shaft and gear? Do any of the vendors on the forum have the parts i need? -- Andy??  ------------- 2 WD45s, 190XT III, 72 AllCrop, Bunch of snap-coupler stuff. Looking for a B and CA |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 4:57pm
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A lot of people will tell you to replace them with the 7000 maroon belly power director plates, as they are much more durable. Hang onto your pocketbook, though, they are pricy! Not sure what the rule of thumb is for the separator plates. My 7000 manual gives a thickness for them and says to check for abnormal wear and/or warpage. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 5:08pm
| If the seperator plates are not warped, I generally reuse them. I always replace all 9 discs with 70261212 (model 7000) discs. I myself have never replaced a clutch shaft in the torque housing for worn/loose splines on the driving gear which is blamed for broken discs. I've always used the 7000 clutch disc parts and have my Dad's 200 for example that has had them in it since 1979 (at 3000 hrs) and today it has 8000 hrs on it and has never had any problems with the PowerDirector clutch since the 7000 parts were installed....original clutch shaft and gear still in it. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 9:36pm
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The torque tube shaft is the inside shaft of the two when you look in torque tube from the rear. If the outer shaft turnes a long ways before inner shaft turnes, the gear and shaft is worn causing a vibration which breaks the Hi plates.
If the plates Dr. Allis uses do the job, that would be the best way to go. MACK
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 12:24am
| since it's about so much effort to do a job like this,i wouldn't even consider price of oem plates VS 7000 series. Put the best stuff in while there. |
Posted By: EricTn
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 8:03am
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Just wondering if anyone has seen and/or used any clutch or brake products from this company?
http://www.tribco.com/ |