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Home made penetrating oil?

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42775
Printed Date: 30 Aug 2025 at 9:07am
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Topic: Home made penetrating oil?
Posted By: David Maddux
Subject: Home made penetrating oil?
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 9:48am
I guess I need some help here. I thought I remembered hearing of some of you guys making your own penetrating oil out of a 50/50 acetone and automatic trans fluid. I tried it yesterday. I had a suspicion that the oil and solvent was separating, so I found a clean baby food jar, where I could see what was going on, and sure enough it is separating. So how are you guys making this?



Replies:
Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:01am
I had the same problem.  It would separate in a closed container, or the acetone would evaporate off if left to the air.  I went back to kroil.

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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.


Posted By: AC WD45
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:04am
It does separate, you need to shake well about every 2-3 minutes as you would a can of paint.

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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
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Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:16am
Been using it for many years to free up stuck pistons. Shake it well and pour it on. I think the acetone goes in 1st and the ATF follows it. Does not work well on rusted nuts/pins as it does for soaking.

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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC


Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:40am

As long as it isn't brand new or waay past when it should have been changed you parts washer is full of real good penetrating oil (less perfume and fancy can).  Recently we changed over to a hot water/detergent wash cabinet so soon I wil be buying penetrant oils again, LOL.



Posted By: Kip-Utah
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:49am
Dave, I had the same experience. It really separates in colder temperatures. Had pretty good luck with this mixture, but it does need to be agitated vigorously & often. Kip

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HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!!


Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 1:27pm
I mixed some Acetone, ATF, Rust Buster, Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster and Kroil from some cans of this stuff I had in the shop.

I put it in the plastic Rust Buster container with the long tube spout.
I then put that in a can if something in the mixture would affect the plastic.
Two years later the plastic container is in good shape.

That mixture works goods.

I had a threaded rod that was threaded into a thick piece of steel.
I put vise-grips on it and it would not move.
I put my mixture on it and went to town for coffee.
When I got back I put the vise-grips back on it and the weight of the vise-grips hanging on the rod started turning the rod.
It was free and came out by hand.




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I Love Meatballs and Dumplings on Toast with Gravy and Rosemary and ??? {Open For Suggestions}


Posted By: mdtractormechanic
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 2:03pm
I've used about a 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and ATF or tractor hydraulic fluid for many years. Both proved to have good success.

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Joe's 1939 Model WC, 1940 Model RC, 1944 & 1950 Model C's, B-125 PU


Posted By: David Maddux
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 4:57pm
I tried putting lacquer thinner in the mix , that made them mix . I also tried 50/50 lacquer thinner and atf it also worked.


Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 5:40pm
I just got some very rusty C-clamps from a friend and I took them in the shop and washed them in my dirty parts washer (Mineral spirits and a splash of laquer thiner) The next night both were free. I think I'll start saving some when I change solvent.


Posted By: mdtractormechanic
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 6:02pm
Originally posted by Thad in AR. Thad in AR. wrote:

I just got some very rusty C-clamps from a friend and I took them in the shop and washed them in my dirty parts washer (Mineral spirits and a splash of laquer thiner) The next night both were free. I think I'll start saving some when I change solvent.
Thad, That's funny that you mentioned cleaning parts and them freeing up. I worked as a heavy equipment mechanic for years and spent a lot of time at the cleaning table. Even after a change of cleaning fluid, regardless of which kind, it doesn't take long for oil to build up in the solvent and in turn creating a penetrating fluid. I've stopped up the drain hole on a cleaning table and left stuck parts soak over night and like you find them freed up the next day. As you suggest, save some off the top and you get a second use for it, unintentionally homemade penetrating fluid.

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Joe's 1939 Model WC, 1940 Model RC, 1944 & 1950 Model C's, B-125 PU


Posted By: Ken(MI)
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 8:20pm

I've never found any penetrating oil that works better than Kroil, but I really prefer heat, I have yet to find anything that can't be disassembled with the proper application of sufficient heat, and a whole lot quicker.



Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 8:48pm
I'm a huge fan of Kroil. BUT Ken is right, heat can take apart anything... (especially if you have finally just had enough, and you press down on the oxygen lever! LOL)

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Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.
From listening comes wisdom and from speaking comes repentance.
Wise men learn more from fools than fools from the wise.



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