D17 Tie Rod Ends
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42377
Printed Date: 29 Aug 2025 at 11:16pm
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Topic: D17 Tie Rod Ends
Posted By: 79fordblake
Subject: D17 Tie Rod Ends
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2011 at 6:22pm
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The tie rods on my neighbors D17 needs replacing. Figured I would go ahead and remove them today since it was pretty nice. I can't remove the nut b/c the ball of the tie rod is spinning. I tried to wedge something in there to stop it and use the impact wrench but was a no go...still spins. Am I going to have to cut the nut off? I just about finished up the wiring today...cranked it up took it down the road to warm it up good then adjusted the valves. Noticed the temp gauge doesn't work....ill have to add that to the list of things. This thing runs like a top after I did the full tuneup on it. Has tons of power. My uncle rebuilt the engine in it when I was young but hasn't hardly been used since. |
Replies:
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2011 at 6:35pm
| Sounds like the easy way is to cut off, it's all junk anyway |
Posted By: norm[ind]
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2011 at 7:33pm
| HEAT TO CHERRY RED AN LET IT COOL IMPACT WRENCH |
Posted By: norm[ind]
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2011 at 7:34pm
| NUT ONLY SORRY FOR MISQUE |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2011 at 3:16pm
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I've had good luck with a "nutsplitter"; those castelated nuts split real easy.
A nice sharp cold chisel will do it also; you don't have to split the nut totally; just enuf so it loosens up.
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2011 at 3:36pm
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If you are doing the ones up under the bolster, just be careful if you use the blue torch tool, I caught my uncles D19 on fire once doing that. A diedel fuel leak I didn't see, and a little hay dust make a great fire starter, fortunately I had brought out the fire extinguisher fearing such a problem. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: TexasAllis
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 7:32am
| I have an LP burner so I am always leary of using the torch. A sawzall with a new metal cutting blade made short work of mine. |
Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 8:42am
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When I have that problem I use a long crowbar and apply lots of pressure to the ball side of the stud, pressing it in to the arm. Working alone I slide a pipe over the end of the crowbar and hang some weight to add more pressure. Then use a boxend wrench to work the nut tight-loose,along with some penetrant. Gary
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Posted By: Gatz in NE
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 9:22am
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Blake,
I have a set of original tie-rod assemblies for a D17 (these are from a SerIV; I think all years are the same). Ball ends are tight, new zerks, rod-tube slides easily. Just needs clamp bolts/nuts. Can send pics if you're interested
Gatz
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Posted By: 79fordblake
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2011 at 12:01am
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Gatz, this D17 belongs to the neighbors. Been workin on my stuff the last two days. Goin to tinker on the D17 tomorrow probably and try a few things that have been mentioned for the tie rods. This thing needs new bakes to....ain't that gonna be fun....how many people think the anchor pin will just fall right out? LOL! |
Posted By: Gatz in NE
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2011 at 8:19am
yes...an opportunity to invent new cuss words.
Hopefully, it won't need new drums; which can also test one's patience.
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79fordblake wrote: