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WD45 Re-assembly Questions - Help needed

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42198
Printed Date: 29 Aug 2025 at 11:16pm
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Topic: WD45 Re-assembly Questions - Help needed
Posted By: Brampton 02 gt
Subject: WD45 Re-assembly Questions - Help needed
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2011 at 9:12pm
Hi I have a few questions I need help with as I am putting the old girl back together.
 
Is the govenor spring easy to change?  I assume it is easier to do before I put the rad in.  Can I just use a needlenose plier?
 
Should I try and find brass nuts and washer for the manifold?  I have anti-seize nuts I got from agco?  I think the nut size is 3/8.
 
Do I need anything on the waterpump gasket?  I didn't put anything on it.
 
Bolts on fan - there are two bolts on the fan - almost like de-clutching bolts.  Should they be loose to let the fan adjust slightly?
 
thanks!



Replies:
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2011 at 9:18pm
the governer spring can be changed any time. its a little tight with the hood and radaitor installed by still can be changed with a needle nose . the waterpump gasket will be fine bare. I like to put copper coat on the pump side and nothing on the block side. it makes it easier to take back off. the two bolts in the side of the fan pulley are for tightening the belt. Adjust the two halves to take out the slack and tighten the bolts.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2011 at 9:26pm
Don't put brass nuts on manifold. When they seize you cannot take them off with a torch, and they will seize in time.  MACK


Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2011 at 9:45pm
when you put the manifold nuts on get you some FELPRO C5A anti sieze compound.i gurantee if you remove them in 5 years,they will not be siezed to studs...


Posted By: Brampton 02 gt
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2011 at 9:53pm
Thanks - is that like the silver anti-seize paste?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2011 at 10:01pm
When tightening the manifold, snug the very front and very rear nuts first, which will square the manifold to the cylinder head. Then, alternate between all six nuts a little at a time until good and snug. Now, every time you go to use the tractor (while still cold and unstarted) resnug those bolts. You will find the gaskets keep shrinking for a while and after several tightenings of the bolts they will be tight and the gaskets won't blow out from low torque on the nuts.


Posted By: RickUP
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2011 at 3:51am
Use the copper C-5A anti seize if you can.


Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2011 at 7:19am
In the governer department if you decide to change the control rod seal the pin that holds the gov spring fork on the rod is tappered and must come out driving it to the front. I just found this out the hard way,the pin has about .o10 tapper to it. The pin is avaiable but not the rod or fork however I did find used ones.


Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2011 at 8:20am
Re; the fan bolts. Loosen them and adjust the width of the pully so it fits your belt while it is on the bench, then install it on the engine. 60 +/- years in the elements make it a little difficult to free it up; some snake oil and/or heat may be necessary.

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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC


Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2011 at 8:29pm
no brampton,this was developed  for the c-5a aircraft to use on the engine mount bolts that were always siezeing up...good stuff



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