WD 45 Brakes
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41881
Printed Date: 29 Aug 2025 at 6:12pm
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Topic: WD 45 Brakes
Posted By: RickinNH
Subject: WD 45 Brakes
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2011 at 1:52pm
| Hello, I am a new member today. Not a mechanic, retired truck driver.I have a WD45 that needed brakes. I got though the disassembly. Now i am trying to rivet the newlinings to the shoe.I have broken a lining already so my way is not working. I had a pin the size of the rivet head in the vise and a tool that fits in the rivet to round over the end.I couldn't get the rivets tight and finally broke the lining trying. I need suggestion on what works. Thanks. |
Replies:
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2011 at 3:08pm
| I used a rivet press to instal the one on my C. looks like a C clamp with a pin end and a press end. When we did dads many years ago He just borrowed the rivet sets from the local dealer. If you don't have the correct tools you'll never get them tight. the rivet set end gets used on the outside of the band looks like a centerpunch with the end curled back to form the head. |
Posted By: Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2011 at 3:23pm
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Rick, I just did mine in the WD45 a couple of weeks ago. Put a punch, the size of the inside , or flat head of the rivet, in a big vice. Make sure the diameter of the punch is smaller than the holes in the shoes. You want to make contact with the rivet only. Left enough punch sticking out so the shoe would fit over and not hit the vice. I placed about 5 rivets in loose and taped them in just to keep the alignment correct. Starting in the center I worked outward. I used a center punch on the rivet first, to start mushrooming it. Then used the ball end of a ball peen hammer. Strike them pretty hard. Once the external part of the rivet mushroomes over you can keep forming it all the way down. Had all 4 of mine done in about an hour. All nice and tight. Hope that helps. Jeff------------- 1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater" |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 6:56pm
| i am with your idea jeff cant beat good southern ingunity,works every time.have replaced several sets like that... |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 8:08pm
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I've done it the way Jeff describes. I have a drill blank ground to a 45 degree point I use as a center punch. It gets the spread started before you try to roll it down and tighten it up. I have also used a rivet press. It even had a spindle for a C'bore tool to make you own cut to fit linings. We used it to replace the brakes on Punch presses we worked on.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Orange Tractors
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 9:31pm
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I have also done it the way Jeff descibes. The old brake lining presses are probably better, but are pretty difficult to find these days. IF you got the lower pin out without resorting to cutting torches and language that would make a sailor blush, you are already ahead of the game. If I were you, I would work out a satisfactory way of riveting the lining in place using your broken pieces since you need to replace them anyway. Work slowly and carefully, many light taps are better than a couple of heavy blows with the hammer. Robert
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Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 10:00pm
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might want to consider one of these, can be found a few different places http://steinertractor.com/MIS1131-brake-riveting-tool - http://steinertractor.com/MIS1131-brake-riveting-tool ------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: RickinNH
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 10:13pm
| Thanks everyone for the replies. I was doing it the way Jeff said except for the spreading of the rivet at the begining and the go slow part. Will try again next week when some new pads arrive.As far as the pin part goes both pin heads broke off and one had to drilled and taped twice . Then a grade 8 bolt was added to the puller before it came out. Not sure how many generations of mice were raised in both sides but they were full. |
Posted By: RickinNH
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2011 at 10:20pm
| That tool from Steiner is out of stock . Will not be in till Jan. Found one from an aircraft company that was close but not the right size for this. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 7:06am
| Rick a brake job on a 45 can be one of the hardest tractor repairs to do , sounds like you are "getin - er - done" once you have finnised it will bring you great satifaction to have good brakes!! I have done as Jeff sugested and it worked for me. |
Posted By: Burgie
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 7:17am
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I purchased a rivet punch from Hanson Rivets and it works great. Put all the rivets in first loose then tighten them from the center out. ------------- "Burgie" |
Posted By: John (C-IL)
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 7:59am
Burgie, which one did you get? http://www.hansonrivet.com/w78.htm - http://www.hansonrivet.com/w78.htm
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Burgie wrote:Posted By: Burgie
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 1:30pm
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John, I was mistaken,it came from Chicago Rivet & Machine Co. T-00171 hand clincher roll 3/16 ------------- "Burgie" |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2011 at 4:11pm
| rick...you are right about the anchor pins...2 40000 tinsel aircraft bolts would not get 1 of mine...thank god for the plasma cutter,didnt even damage the brake shoe frames... |