1978 Allis chalmers 7000
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40509
Printed Date: 06 Sep 2025 at 9:01am Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 1978 Allis chalmers 7000
Posted By: meyer
Subject: 1978 Allis chalmers 7000
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 8:45pm
This tractor is up for auction tomorrow. I went to look at it today. It started fine. Fuel pump was leaking a fair amount while running. My main concern is it wouldn't go into gear. Im not real familiar with this series of allis but the gear selector nearest the window had I, II, III wouldn't move out II. The other lever moved fine and twisted, not sure what gear is what on that selector but tried all of them. Still the tractor didn't try to move at all not even a shutter. It was low on oil, but still on dipstick. The clutch pedal felt real soft. The worker at the auction place tried to move but couldn't either. He said that they have moved it around the yard and drove it through the ring last month but it was no sale. Any input is greatly appreciated.
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 9:05pm
Did the power steering work??????
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Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 9:10pm
That would be the powershift lever. If it is hung between ranges, it will not pressurize any clutch packs. The oil level you checked, if it was on a dip stick, was the rear end oil level, which has nothing to do with the hydraulic system and the power shift clutches. The oil level you need to check is done by sight glasses behind the battery(s). You will see a fill tube and sight glasses below that. You want the first glass filled and the top glass empty/slightly filled. Be careful working on the power shift linkage, as if it is in gear and you suddenly shift the valve body into a gear, it will take off and run you over. The clutch pedal will be soft for most of the travel if it is working correctly. The first 7/8 of travel or so should just feel like you are pushing against a spring, then in the last couple of inches, it should get noticeably stiffer as it engages the transmission brake. I really wouldn't pay a lot for that tractor without it moving, as those power shift clutch packs are pricey to work on, especially if you buy all new parts (and you can only get new parts for the 2nd and 3rd range clutch packs on that tractor as far as discs go). It also may have just lost prime, but still, the I, II, III shift lever should move. It is a cable that moves, so check that cable to make sure it's not binding up. If you look on the tractor's right side, you will see an aluminum valve body, and that is where you will find the actuating lever that this control lever operates. It is at the lower part of the valve body and you will also see a cam type lever that will push back on this lever when it is engaged in the forward two positions (this is the powershift kick down lever that is connected to the clutch pedal also, so you will feel that extra resistance in the pedal as you depress it if the power shift is not in I range and everything is in decent adjustment). It is really hard to know exactly what is happening without seeing the tractor. Does the power steering work? If so, chances are the problem is not with the hydraulic pump, but something in the shift linkage, the clutch pack, or the valve body. Doesn't really take much out of the equation other than a bad hydraulic pump or a hydraulic system that is low on oil and/or lost prime.
Hurst
------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Posted By: meyer
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 9:11pm
I honestly didn't turn the steering wheel.
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Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 9:11pm
Doc asked the question that would've simplified my response a lot and I failed to think of until the end of typing mine... about par for the course for me: overthink the problem and then realize there's an underlying question that should be asked before bringing up everything else I said...
Hurst
------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Posted By: Andrew(southernIL)
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 9:31pm
Yea I learned this week that if the pump isn't pumping it wont move but just loosened a fitting on the pump while engine running to bleed the system and was fine then.
------------- If fishing is a sport your looking at an athlete
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Posted By: meyer
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 6:52am
Ill see if the power steering works. I forgot to mention the tranny pressure light was on all the time
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Posted By: D-allis Iowa
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 7:20am
Can you get a picture of tractor and let us know what it brings? Thanks
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Posted By: meyer
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 7:30am
There's pics on the cook tractor website. Ill let you know what it brings.
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Posted By: meyer
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 7:35am
I talked to a Guy that works there and he was guessing it would bring salvage price of about 3000-4000
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Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 10:13am
If the tranny pressure light is on, then you have a hydraulic issue that needs to be solved more than likely. If the power steering works, then the problem is not the hydraulic pump, but somewhere in the power shift valving or clutch pack. The tranny pressure light could also be a wire that has rubbed through and grounded out on the chassis of the tractor, but the chances of that and the symptoms you described are not very high.
Hurst
------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Posted By: meyer
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 11:27am
Power steering doesn't work
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Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 7:05pm
Pump lost prime would be the first thing I would try. Just loosen up the line that goes to the hydraulic cooler and the one that goes to the power steering a couple turns, rev the tractor up to like 1500 rpms, and then go in the cab and work the steering wheel back and forth. When it primes, you will know it because stuff will begin working and the fitting(s) you loosened will begin to leak. Tighten them back up and you should be good to test the powershift. I would make sure you get the shift linkage worked out. The other clutch packs are not designed to inch... Also, check the hydraulic fluid level at the sight glass before doing anything. If the level is low, you could eat the pump up if there's no fluid to pull up and through it.
Hurst
------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Posted By: meyer
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 7:25pm
Well I didn't buy it. I was about 80% sure it was fluid related since it was low and I'm sure. its sat long enough to loose prime. It brought $4250. Also bid on an 8030 didn't get it kinda kicking myself now. If anyone knows of a 8010 or 8030 is let me know.
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Posted By: Daehler
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 7:43pm
They had a 8030 down there? Was it a 2wd or FWA? It wasnt on the sale bill
------------- 8070FWA,7080 BlackBelly, 7045,2 200s,D19,D17,G, WD,45,UC,7 AC mowers and lots more!
"IT TAKES 3 JD's TO OUT DO AN ALLIS, 2 TO MATCH IT IN THE FIELD AND 1 FOR PARTS!"
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Posted By: meyer
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2011 at 7:55pm
2 wheel drive with loader 5600 hours. Think it was a local late arrival. Brought $15000
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Posted By: Knight84
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 12:29am
Quick question: Where is the hydraulic filter located on the 7000
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Posted By: Knight84
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 12:31am
My Allis 7000 hydraulics keep going in and out on the steering and the hydraulic cylinders that are attached to the tractor. Any advice what to look for?
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Posted By: cottonpatch
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 12:44am
There is a plate below the batteries and below fill cap on the right side of tractor that covers the cartridge filter. Six nuts hold the plate on. Remove the nuts and the filter is held onto the plate by spring clips. If your hydraulics and steering are coming and going check hydraulic fluid level. Two site glasses behind batteries. Try fluid level first, see if that is your issue.
------------- '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040
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Posted By: Knight84
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 1:50am
Posted By: Knight84
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 1:51am
Can you run your basic hydro oil in the allis? I know some situations it may gum things up.
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Posted By: Ben (MI)
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 6:16am
Knight,
In a 7000 series, use a tractor hydraulic fluid listed as Allis Power Fluid 821 compatible. There is some cheap stuff out there I wouldn't even buy to start a brush fire with.
------------- Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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Posted By: cottonpatch
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 9:33am
Ben (MI) wrote:
Knight,
In a 7000 series, use a tractor hydraulic fluid listed as Allis Power Fluid 821 compatible. There is some cheap stuff out there I wouldn't even buy to start a brush fire with. |
I would use a premium universal hydraulic fluid that specs the AC 821xl fluid. Some of the cheaper line specifics it meets this criterion. As posted above, don't use the cheap stuff!! The extra 10 or 15 dollars a pail is peace of mind and money saved in longevity of your hydraulic components
------------- '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040
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Posted By: Knight84
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 8:44pm
Is there a way to look to buy a tractor and make sure the hydraulics work good? Do you hook a gauge uo to the remote? If so what should it read?
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2016 at 6:29am
A gauge will tell you part of the story, better than nothing. Pressure reading depends somewhat on the tractor, but should be 2000 - 2400 PSI or so. A better check is a flow meter and pressure gauge setup. Find out the rated flow of the tractor and make sure it outputs that. Then keep it running until the tractor and the oil are good and warmed up, and the pressure should not drop more than 15 -20%.
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Posted By: Knight84
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2016 at 6:02pm
Where is that located on the pump to loosen?
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Posted By: jazzsuds
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2018 at 8:53am
Cottonpatch, do you know the part number for this cartridge you refer to under the plate?
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2018 at 9:00am
jazzsuds wrote:
Cottonpatch, do you know the part number for this cartridge you refer to under the plate? |
7000 is a totally different tractor than your 7040. About the only things that in common are cab and sheet metal.
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2018 at 9:55am
Hydraulic filter for 7000. Agco part #70260906.
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Posted By: Ben (MI)
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2018 at 11:21am
I think I have the WIX version that I will give to anyone who wants it. The 7000 is long gone.
------------- Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 1:17pm
Do you have the number that they cross to working on their website? I tried that a few years ago, and it was the filter for the larger 7000 series powershift tractors. If you have the number for a different one that fits, please do share that, as AGCO is getting awfully proud of theirs.
Hurst
------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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