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B and C 3 point

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39254
Printed Date: 07 Aug 2025 at 7:34pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: B and C 3 point
Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Subject: B and C 3 point
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 7:34am
I have two B's and want to buy a C, one B will be sold or parted out.  Looking for everyones input on aftermarket 3points, what do you have and do you like it? pics too, how well yours works, ect.
 
I fount one piticular 3pt(on ebay) that to me seems to be the best built and designed, but they only make it for a B, I'd like to buy it and make one simular to go on the C I plan to buy.
 
Your guys input would be awesome, i'll find the 3pt on ebay im looking at and put a link up.
 
Thanks for any suggestions



Replies:
Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 7:37am


Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 7:37am


Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 7:40am
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330390437029?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/330390437029?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648


Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 7:40am
its a little spendy but looks like a great setup


Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 7:48am
I and going to get a 5 1/2ft disc with chopping blades, 2 row cultivator, field cultivator, and build a 8ft spike tooth drag(from an old manual flip down transport drag my grandpa cut up)
 
all these items will be 3pt,  I will be using my B and soon to have C for several small food plots for hunting


Posted By: pumpkinman
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 10:33am
the square tube that bolts to final drive housings would have be longer for a C other than that every thing else is the same.


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 11:18am
No drawbar.... that would be a downer for me

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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 11:55am
Yes just the square tube would be different, easy enough.

As for the drawbar problem, that's easy enough. Could build a drawbar setup that would mount up front with either another square tube across the front of the final drive assembly or a brace that would hang down from the implement mounting holes on the torque tube. The drawbar could rest across the back of the 3pt square tube and could be pinned on the front for easy removal if in the way for a 3pt attachment.

You guys gotta think outside the box a little bit like me, but not all of us have a shop full of tools like me and great at fabricating. I would be lost without my welder.

If I could build a setup simular to this and sell it cheaper, would anyone be interested?


Posted By: morton(pa)
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 12:19pm
My opinion on 3 point for the B/C:
 
 
Plain and simple, it wasn't made for it. Don't try to make it something its not.
 
That being said, it doesnt mean it's a bad thing. B and C implements are readily avaliable if your willing to take a small amount of time and look for them. They work just as good, and in most cases better, then 3 point implements. They hold their value, they are more durable, amd they work better for the tractor they are being used on vs a 3 point implement. Why spend ALL that money on a 3 point alone when you could get a nice set up of plows, cultivators, and a mower for the same price? You might even have some left over (What i've spent for 6+ implements for my B's in the past 5 years hasn't come close to that).


Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 3:04pm
Its not like were talking about putting a receiver hitch on your wifes mini van to pull a car trailer!

Its a tractor. Many items had hydraulic lift setups, an aftermarket 3pt is just a universal hydraulic lift set up for some to have many more attachments, or to change them out faster.

Another reason for myself is for cultivating. Our row spacing makes using my one row mounted cultivator kinda tight(rear wheels rub corn a lot). Goint to a 2 row 3pt is better setup. I can straddle 2 rows better than one row.

Every one uses the tractors different.


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 3:14pm
I agree that a 3 point makes the tractors more useful



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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 3:16pm
The 3 point that Tony sells seems like a good unit also.

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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 3:27pm
Tony???? Who is this Tony I hear of? Does he have some kind of online store or website?


Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 3:32pm
http://tonystractors.com/ - http://tonystractors.com/


Posted By: Tony.Or
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 4:27pm
 The   hitch on left  and  middle  are  Cross hitchs,  bolt  right  on, Leave  factory drawbar  on.    been selling them for  20 years.  
 
 Thanks  Dan, for the  link.                Tony        


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http://www.tonystractors.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.tonystractors.com


Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 5:27pm
I have had one like the one Tony sells for 16 years, wouldn't want to be without it.
BB 


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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152


Posted By: morton(pa)
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 6:52pm
Originally posted by RockyBottomFarm RockyBottomFarm wrote:

Its not like were talking about putting a receiver hitch on your wifes mini van to pull a car trailer!

Its a tractor. Many items had hydraulic lift setups, an aftermarket 3pt is just a universal hydraulic lift set up for some to have many more attachments, or to change them out faster.

Another reason for myself is for cultivating. Our row spacing makes using my one row mounted cultivator kinda tight(rear wheels rub corn a lot). Goint to a 2 row 3pt is better setup. I can straddle 2 rows better than one row.

Every one uses the tractors different.
 
 
You asked for input, so I gave it. If you can't respect someones opinion, that you asked for, don't bother posting.
 
Just another tip, the B was made for 1 row, the C and CA two rows. That might help your row problem a bit if you get a machine that, once again, is designed for what for and/or how your using it. The spacing on the rear wheels CAN be adjusted as well...


Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 8:52pm
I have a C and love the 2 row setup on the mounted cultivators, especially the fact that I don't have to look back behind me all the time when cultivating(I know, I shouldn't have to, but sometimes the rows are a little crooked.LOL!). I see no problem with putting a 3 point on a B/C. Just makes it a little more useful for some things, like mounted disc harrows, scape blades, and small flail mowers. One thing to keep in mind is that with the 3-point, you will have A LOT more weight on the rear than the tractor was designed for. I would consider fabbing a weight hanger out front and putting on suitcase weights as needed to keep the front tires on the ground. You could easily do that with the resources and skills you have mentioned earlier.

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I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!


Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2011 at 10:09pm
I have adjusted wheels, I try to get one tire track to work good for many uses.  My special measurement is at or just under 5 feet outside of rear wheels.  One reason is the disc I have in mind is 5 1/2 foot wide.  Also tractor gets used to cut firewood and the narrow track is awesome for getting around. The plan of adding a C to the line up would be for the wider track, also work for cultivating and better for side raking
 
Also everyones corn planters are setup different widths, especially different from 1938 to 2011!!!!!!!  we also put several times more kernals to the acre now than what they did back then as well


Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2011 at 6:16pm
We sell a lot of the 3 points for the b/c  Our kit interchanges between either one just fine.  I also install them for customers.  They are listed on our webiste if ou would like to get a shipping quote, or you are welcomed to call our toll free number 877-378-6543.
JImD


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Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.

We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543


Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2011 at 6:16pm
Also, our kit maintains the original drawbar.

-------------
Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.

We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543


Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2011 at 5:40pm
Anyone have pics of there 3pts on and in use?

Anyone have a style that does not use the stock drawbar to mount to?



Posted By: RockyBottomFarm
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2011 at 4:40pm
Who has a 3pt on a B or C? Do you use it? If so what forn and let's see pics of it in use.

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38 & 41 B, sickle mower, 2 way plows, rear field cultivator, 2 row drill planter
40 Combine
66 Combine
Roto Baler


Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2011 at 6:07pm
I think you would want to brace the rocker shaft supports from the final housings if you do much lifting.  I think that is what was done on the snap coupler conversion.  
 
I looked at the picture more closely after posting.  It looks like the rockshaft shown is moved well forward from the position Allis had it.  That was probably enough to prevent overtaxing the support and pulling the seat and fenders clean off.


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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless


Posted By: countryguy828
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2011 at 6:59pm
I have a cross 3 pt that I bought from Jim D at OKtractor.com
 
I have a woods 6 ft 3 pt mower that it works wondefully on I love it and wouldn't want to go with out it.
 
The 3 pt works ok with the back blade / snowblade.
 
I put a 2 bottom plow on it and the geometry isn't right for plowing, when it went in the ground the front end went in the air, part of the problem was that at the time I had 14.9-24s on the back, I have since switched to 11.2-24s but havn't tried plowing again.
 
I do like the looks of the kit you are showing a picture of there, with the draw links attached to the tractor lower I think it would make a huge difference.
 
Back in the day corn was on 38-40 inch rows, it is typically set on 30 inch these days, that will make a difference. 
 
Dave


Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2011 at 7:16pm
I bought  an old junk B and restored and custimized.Didn,t have drawbar so i made 3 point hitch. it is similar to one in picture but i put an arch in mine . run support from arch to drawbar and created a triangle  making a solid hitch.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2011 at 10:02pm
I have one that looks similar to the photo Rocky posted at 7:37 am.. Mine has a 4 x 4 angle iron 3/8 inch thick mounted between the final drive cases with a flat plat on each end that bolts into the two 5/8 holes like the draw bar. I bought two arms at the farm store for a 8N tractor. The 4 x 4 angle has brackets for the arms and a CA cylinder.  Rockshaft ( or top shaft) is also home made out of the original rock shaft- looks similar to the picture above. My links from top to bottom arms are 3/8 inch chains with pins on end to adjust the length as needed.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2011 at 10:12pm
Here is a shot in progress a couple years ago. Loosely set together, but you can get the idea.
 


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Like them all, but love the "B"s.



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