Farm Equipment - trouble with a M2 in beans

Print Page | Close Window

trouble with a M2 in beans

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39115
Printed Date: 04 Nov 2025 at 4:18pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: trouble with a M2 in beans

Posted By: stray
Subject: trouble with a M2 in beans
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 8:24pm

Alright I’m asking this for a guy at work, they (his family) have a M2 combine that they have a hard time cutting beans with. The beans are very dry 9 to 10% but the stalks still have a little green left in them, and the stalks are plugging up on the threshing beater. Right now they set the feeder beater slip clutch so light it plugs up there instead of inside the combine. He said that they’ve tried everything that they have heard of except a spiked beater and he don’t want have to change it for corn and that they are hard on the corn. I hope that my explanation is accurate.

-------------
1969 190XT series 3

Replies:

Posted By: MitchB
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 9:03pm

If you do a topic search for "green stem soybeans" you'll find a post dated October 5 with several replies on how to fix this problem. The name of the entire post topic is "I hate green stem soybeans" posted by Lonn. Good luck! Mitch & Barb in West MI

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 9:43pm

#1. lower the cylinder lower than you have it now, to chew up the green straw so it can't wrap....usually less than 1/2" and probably around 3/8". #2. Have the correct pulley/belt combination on the cylinder, so the speed can be as high as 800 rpm's !!! ...operate the cylinder speed high enough that you damage some beans and then just slow it down enough to eliminate/reduce splits...speed is your friend here. #3. Install a 25 tooth drive sprocket on the left side of the cylinder to speed-up the thresher beater (std is 18 tooth). #4. Remove the lower/front raddle guard if it has one...this usually aggrivates wrapping of the thresher beater. #5. Over the top of the main seperator raddle there is a steel curtain....remove it and throw it away for corn and soybeans. #6. Worn out cylinder bars really add to the misery of green stemmed soybeans. #7. wait for a killing frost and repeat #1. thru #6.

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 10:06pm

Cylinder bars are #1. Alot of people don't know when a gleaner bar is worn out. If the front sharp edge is rounded the bar needs replaced or turned if never turned before.

Check the clearance with a flat piece of steel between cylinder bar and front of concave.

Your gauge may say 1/2 and clearance might be 3/4. Have run the cylinder as low as 1/4 to get that that through.

If you replace bars buy the wide spaced hard surfaced bars, they are worth the money.

Not cheep but are good. MACK

Posted By: aras
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 6:50am

I have a question about our L3 (sorry for the hijack) Is the cylinder closer to the back of the concave than the front? Or Is the clearance closer in the back than in the front? It sure appears this way!

Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 7:09am

I lowered my cylinder to 1/4" and about 650 to 700 rpm. The combine already had the 25 tooth sprocket. That set up worked for me. I do have nearly new wide spaced cylinder bars that I think helped while my neighbor's M2 struggled in soybeans that weren't as green stemmed as mine. He has old standard cylinder bars that are slightly worn and he didn't have the 25 tooth sprocket. In the end I got through mine in good shape. Just had to go a little slower but I also saw some huge new Deeres and Cases that you could hardly tell that they were moving in the field due to green stems.

Another thing I found that has been well worth the money spent was the flex head with auto height and auto reel speed. Even with going slower in green stems while most of the pods were extremely dry I had virtually no shatter loss compared to the neighbor's older floating head.

-------------
-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot

Posted By: Kcgrain
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 7:39am

When we bought our Gleaner back in 1987 the dealer told us if we were having a problem with wrapping we were on the wrong side of the shed door. 8-9% beans dont mean a thing, a heavy dew, light rain a day of fog there back at 16. Personally I would rather harvest dead ripe beans at 15% and take the deduction than to fight 8-9% green stems and take the huge beating on weight when you sell them. Another funny, but unexplainable thing about waiting is they seem to yield better, not sure if its from the cracking, or shatter or where the extra weight is coming from, but what I do know is I get paid by weight. If the neighbors are all grinding the beans off that is not an idication that they are ready, and there is no prize for being the first one started and the first one finished.

Posted By: aras
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 8:07am

KC is right. Nothing is better than selling 13% beans to the elevator! Ours were around 11 to 12. It seems like the more times they freeze the easier the pods shell on the header though and the last thing you want is for it to snow

Posted By: clint
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 8:50am

i have an almost new set of factory stylr bars in KY- i would sell them cheap but the shipping to mo would be a killer

-------------
Our farms stuff: agco gt55, AA 8775, 8765, 6080, 185, 180, 175, 170, d15, d14, d14, wd, wd, wd, g, F3, L3, R62