OT Concrete Slab for a Corn Crib
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37269
Printed Date: 23 Oct 2025 at 7:03pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: OT Concrete Slab for a Corn Crib
Posted By: Teddy (punchie)
Subject: OT Concrete Slab for a Corn Crib
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 4:52pm
|
Any way I'm planing on setting up two 1000 bushel cribs. about 13.5' Diameter, 12' high.
How thick should the slab be?
Wire Or rebar? Rebar is free, working on a hiway, have some older, used, rebar said I can get what I need.
If rebar how far apart?
Should I place any joints?
Should I have a corn drag cannel? If so how big (width) ?
I see I'm going to have to pick my corn, I don't see a Gleaner K combined it. From what I understand it would be a 238 head or a 330 Head I don't have one?? Plus some is on steeper hill sides 30" rows and would be hard to combined any way.
Thanks !!
Teddy
------------- Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc. |
Replies:
Posted By: powertech84
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 5:27pm
| pretty small cribs to get too carried away for. Four inches think should be plenty. Lots of extra concrete can get expensive for a crib thats only gonna hold 5 or 6 wagons of corn. |
Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 6:27pm
|
I'd go to 5 or 6" and rebar. If rebar is free use #4 at 12" each way mid slab.
I've been building concrete silos for 47 years.
Next job the foundation is 90' x 90' x 27" =675 yards and 24 ton of rebar for 4 - 40' x 136' hopper silos 500,000 bu. total capacity. ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: John (C-IL)
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 7:50pm
| I'd go with Calvin's advice. While a drag trench isn't needed raking that ear corn out is a pain in the back. At the very least you could go in half way with at least an 18 inch wide and 12 inch deep tunnel. be sure to put in a 2 inch x 2 inch dado on the edge to drop some good oak lumber in for a tunnel top. The MM sheller that I am familiar with has a 12 inch wide drag. If you have someone in mind to do the shelling you might check to see how wide their drag is. Also, you might want to put a pretty good slope on the concrete to keep water from standing under your corn. Mice and rats love a readily available water supply and the water won't do your corn any good either. |
Posted By: Pat the Plumber CIL
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 11:29pm
|
Added bonus of trench is air flow.Leave small gaps in between boards when laying down.
I can remember my father and grandfather having my older brother crawl up trench to clean out spot where one board rotted through and caved in.Had to clean out to get drag in.Custom shelling outfit wanted to be able to push drag all the way through bfore starting so they would not have to stop and move. ------------- You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails 1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2011 at 11:44pm
|
Back in the day, I remember my father just using corn cribbing on the ground. This would occur later in the corn picking season after a number of permanent pole cribs were full, so the corn was probably getting fairly dry. This corn was also the first to get ground into feed or shelled also. Unless you are planning on picking corn for years to come, paying for concrete may not have much payback. If you are planning on picking for a long time, consider building a pole crib. In addition to a good way to store corn (especially if it's picked a little wet), they're easy to shell from also if built right. ------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |
Posted By: Teddy (punchie)
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2011 at 7:44am
|
I'm planing on farming some 40-50 acres on hill sides and not seeing me taking the corn off any other way than picking, I'll be asking about that in a post soon.
------------- Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc. |
Posted By: Teddy (punchie)
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2011 at 8:56am
About a pole crib what is the best way to build them, I looked on line and looks like allot of work and lumber have a basic idea but I shoveled out of few that where a pain. Would need two pole cribs about 5' x 20' X12'. I'm open to any suggestions. ------------- Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc. |
427435 wrote:Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2011 at 10:34am
|
As I recall, the pole cribs my dad built were more like 8-10' wide with posts about 5-6' apart. A floor was built high enough that it would be above the dragline for the sheller. The first 4 ft above the floor on the "shelling" side had a series of loose boards mounted at an angle against stops on the sides of the posts. These boards were pulled out to let the corn out at shelling time. Most of the corn would fall out and a corn hook was used to deal with jams and to get most of what wouldn't fall out on it's own. Some shoveling was required, but it was a lot easier than shelling out of a round crib. There were (I think) 2x6 boards nailed horizontally between the posts. These 2x6's were spaced vertically so that corn cribbing would be supported by them. The corn cribbing then made up the rest of the sides. Some farmers would build these and not worry about a roof. Dad built his with a pitched roof and enough stringers/rafters (2x4 or 2x6 ?) that corrugated sheet metal could be nailed down. He would pull enough of these sheets each fall to be able to fill the crib and then put them back in place when the crib was full. Caution, this is from memories that are now 50 years old!!! Here's a link to something similar with fancier doors for removing the corn. Also, a fancier roof with access doors that wouldn't require crawling around on the roof to put on or remove the tin roof panels. http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/8C28CA90-16F5-44DF-BD9D-337C4951D0A2/14727/5878PoleCornCrib.pdf - http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/8C28CA90-16F5-44DF-BD9D-337C4951D0A2/14727/5878PoleCornCrib.pdf ------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |
Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2011 at 10:56am
|
At the risk of being banned from this site, the picker of choice back then was the mounted IH picker on an M or newer IH tractor. In particular, the IH 2ME or 2MH or newer pickers. People would have an M with one of these pickers mounted and never take it off------it would just sit in a shed 11 months of the year.
------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |