Help with WD45 and 63 Plow
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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37176
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Topic: Help with WD45 and 63 Plow
Posted By: 79fordblake
Subject: Help with WD45 and 63 Plow
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2011 at 11:45pm
I think I seen a write up about setting plows awhile back but I can't find it now. Did a little work with the WD45 and 63 plow today. I have a manual but it says nothing about the problem I am having. The plow is not running straight with the tractor, not even close at all. Probably can't see to good since I took the pic with my phone. Its all at a angle.
I backed the beaming screw out all the way untill it wouldn't go into the ground anymore then started turning it back the other way untill it started going in the ground again. Looks like it might need to be angled to the left a little more, can't tell until I get it to run straight with the tractor. Thanks for any help.
Wheels are set all the way in, tires are 14.9-28.
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Replies:
Posted By: Rfdeere
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2011 at 11:57pm
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Your first pass when you dont have a furrow yet you need to set the plow level side to side. Do you have the lift bar, beaming plates, and lift links set per the manual ? ------------- Randy Freshour,Member Indiana AC Partners, http://www.rumelyallis.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.rumelyallis.com |
Posted By: R.W
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 8:00am
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Looks like you are not digging deep enough, you have to be deep enough so your land-slides have something to ride against to keep the plow straight. ------------- In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D |
Posted By: John (C-IL)
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 8:40am
| I can't see your left hand link, but if it is correct flip the RIGHT hand link over for the first pass. Remember to flip it back over when you start plowing in the furrow. You may also need to shorten your beaming screw on the first pass and then readjust when you drop into the furrow. |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 9:28am
| Run the left side rear tire up on a 8" block. Adjust the beaming screw so the plow is more is less level for and aft and then level the plow side to side with the adjustments in the lift links. The bottom trunions should be under the cross bar on MOST models. I used to say "all" until I was corrected by a fellow with a parts book in his hand, LOL. This will be close enough to get you started. The vast percentage of the time when I see problems like that the answer is shares and landsides. If you dont know how to tell if your shares are good unhook the plow and let it fall over on the LH side and look at the fogs. No more than you have plowed if they are shined up yo have just found the problem. If in doubt lay a long straight edge down the shares and check out the relationship of the frog to the straight edge. In difficult plowing a person can install brand new shares but if the landsides are shot the plow will drift to the left as in your photos and not go in the ground. Sorry to harp on it but I see darned few plows anymore that are truely ready to go to the field and do a decent job. Once wear parts are corrected the rest of the time it is plain too hard ground. Those old snap coupler plows were heavily dependent on the shares to stay in the ground and were also not designd to plow ground run over by 12 row combines, 1000 bushel grain carts and 30,000 Lb tractors nor plow sod in August. One other thing that you can do to a 70 or 80 series that I am not sure you can do to a 60 series is you can tip the fogs down to a deep suck attitude. This will put the plows in the ground but will pull harder (aside from actualy going in the ground) and the plow will follow the tractor kinds funnny, good luck! |
Posted By: Dipstick In
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 10:22am
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Trying to set a plow and diagnose the wrongs from a picture is extremely hard. I set wheels at one and one half the width of one bottom,ie; 14 inch bottoms=7+14= 21 inches,16 inch=8+16=24. This is the measurement from the centerline of the tractor to the inside edge of the furrow wheel. This indexes the plow to cut the proper width with the first bottom. Then use the manual to set the correct pull point(where the hitch is fastened) of the plow. An inch or two too much or little one way or the other will make a HUGE difference. You can't take for granted that the prior owner had it set right! You are attempting at this point to find the "sweet spot" where the plow will pull straight. When this spot is found the plow will pull straight sorta regardless of landslide or tail wheel on some plows. However, this is not always a practical adjustment with smaller plows, therefore the need for good landslides specially on an AC plow. Cant hardly be overemphazised on an AC! Looking at your picture it could be your hitch is a little to much to the left causing it to pull left. And I question whether your shares have enough "point" left on them to penetrate the dry ground. It looks to me the ground is definetly drier rather than wet. This causes poor penetration in the fall. Also, sod plows much harder than tilled dirt. The reason I think this is that you have way to much "tip" of the plow to the land side(left) of the plow attempting to "force" the bottoms to "dig". The bottom of the furrow should be level or just a teeny bit leaning towards the land side. (This is why we went to depth wheels) If the bottom tilts to the plowed side, it will cause poor penetration or riding uneven, even coming out of the ground!Wish I was there to help you more! But Rfdeere was right, get the manual out and go step by step. Put the front wheels and the left wheel up on a block to get a startiing point. Then plow a little bit, stop, get off that tractor, get behind the plow a little ways and start "really" looking and thinking it out. Good luck! joe ------------- You don't really have to be smart if you know who is! |
Posted By: Dipstick In
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 10:41am
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p.s. John and Butch have excellent points! I'm 70, been plowing since I was 12, and still waiting till I know everything about moldboarding! There are so many variables,soil type,moisture,humus, etc. the list goes on and on and they all have a part in how well you do your job! It's all trial and error till you have experience!Try changing only one thing at a time and get off and look! Again good luck! ------------- You don't really have to be smart if you know who is! |
Posted By: 79fordblake
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 10:51am
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Butch(OH) you may be correct about the ground conditions, the ground is extremely hard and hasn't been turned in over 20 yrs. If that is the problem that kind of makes me sad b/c my 2 bottom John Deere trailer plow sank right into the ground behind the A. Of course I can't get the WD45 to pull the JD plow in this hard ground without the use of traction booster and more weight. :( I had all the John Deere guys help me get the JD plow setup correctly last year and it plow like a dream. Hopefully I can make the Allis do the same.
This plow was owned by my Grandpa and has been behind the WD45 before I was ever born, and b/c of that I can't believe it doing what it is. I know he wouldn't leave it plowing like this, maybe at some point somebody borrowed it and messed up all the adjustments?
Oh I forgot to say yesterday no matter what I do to the adjustment, it seems the landslide will not touch the ground, its all jacked up in the back and the plow is sideways. If I turn the depth adjustment in some it will dig into the ground without much problem after I drop the plow but not right.
I'm going to try all the things yall have said and hopefully that will work. The plow doesn't look badly worn at the tips comparing it to my JD plow. Thanks all.
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Posted By: 79fordblake
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2011 at 12:26pm
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OK guys I drove the tractor up on 8 inch tall blocks. The adjustments were not anywhere close. I have it now where the nose is down some and I made the left link longer and brung the left bottom to the ground.
Went out and tried it and I think it made it a little better. I think the ground is just way to hard for this plow. In spots it was lifting the front end off the ground and it is a wide front end with wheel weights. I welcome any more info but I will probably have to wait and try more adjustments in late october to november.
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