LocTite for my AllCrops
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36153
Printed Date: 24 Aug 2025 at 1:05pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: LocTite for my AllCrops
Posted By: TomYaz
Subject: LocTite for my AllCrops
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 7:38am
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Starting to put sheet metal back, will be using bolts instead of rivets in most places.
Worried about vibration losseing things up, wondered if this product would help; any experience? I like the idea that it still allows dissasembly (supposedly):
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm - http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm ------------- If its not an All-Crop, it all crap! |
Replies:
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 7:44am
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Another option is to use nylon inserted lock nuts but if you already have the hardware then I'd use the Loctite. Both will work fine. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 7:46am
| I would use the red loctite. Blue would work but don't have much holding value. MACK |
Posted By: TomYaz
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 7:47am
How hard is it to get the buggers apart if need be? ------------- If its not an All-Crop, it all crap! |
MACK wrote:Posted By: Dave in il
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 7:55am
| Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong, I think the blue stuff is good and allows removal with out heat, the red is stronger and the green needs to be heated with a torch to get it apart. What size bolts will you use to replace the rivets? Will you be using lock nuts or lock washers? A 1/4" bolt with a lock nut will probably stay tight but this would by like a belt with suspenders, you definately would keep things where you wanted them. LOL |
Posted By: TomYaz
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 8:02am
Lock washers use will I...Dont want to have to take a torch to get it apart...guess Im leaning blue... ------------- If its not an All-Crop, it all crap! |
Posted By: R.W
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 9:39am
You wont have to heat the red to get apart and it will hold better than the blue, I would use the red. IMHO ------------- In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D |
Posted By: TomYaz
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 9:43am
I am swaying like a reed...LOL! Anybody ever needed to torch red? ------------- If its not an All-Crop, it all crap! |
Posted By: Don M SEIA
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 10:16am
| I've used Red and Green ,but on bigger bolts and things on a N6 Gleaner. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 10:23am
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I see a lot of blue on Ford and GM vehicles. I would agree with Red having more holding power. Maybe on a small bolt you might need to heat Red to get it loose. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: TomYaz
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 10:26am
My bolts are 1/4" to 5/8" typically. ------------- If its not an All-Crop, it all crap! |
Posted By: hermin's dad
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 10:33am
| I would use red on 1/4 can always snap them off easily no need to heat them |
Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 10:34am
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I'd use both red and blue, depending whether I ever expected to need to take them apart again. ------------- Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives. |
Posted By: nsula_country
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 12:10pm
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I'd use 2442 (2440?) instead of 242. The 4 digit part numbers have the primer built in. Most bolts are plated and the primer is required to make the loctite bite in. The 3 digit numbers are for plain, steel fasteners. Blue + primer is what I'd use. Red is aggressive and usually needs at least a propane torch to make them turn loose (heat until smokes). Green is "wicking" grade. You use it after assembly and it wicks into the threads. It will come apart w/o heat like blue. Purple = light Blue and Green = medium Red = aggressive, heavy CT ------------- 2014 LS P7010C, 1962 Farmall 504 Diesel (1st tractor) w/ 2008 Koyker 220 FEL, 1968 Allis Chalmers 180 Diesel, Komatsu PC38UU-2 Excavator, Various attachments for all! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 1:54pm
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I have used all kinds of it in the past 20 years for different things. I would lean toward the red also. You can get bolts apart with a wrench after the red sets up. Green, we used for cylindrical part bonding where a torch is needed to disassemble. There are different green products also. Some are gap filling up to .015 of an inch per side. If the bolts are plated, blue probably wont do any better than a lock washer. Both surfaces should be cleaned with brake clean or some type of solvent so the loctite can work also. We used green 680 for pinning bronze bearings and the heat of a drill bit will sometimes soften it enough to pull old pins. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 2:16pm
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Bolts smaller than 1/4 use purple 222ms, On bolts 1/4 and over for medium strength, use blue242 (or as mentioned before the one with the primer) On bolts 5/8 and over use red 262. This info is from a Loctite selector chart i've had in my desk for years . Thanks Tom for giving me a good reason to use it. Hope this helps. I think with any one you use you will want to check them after you use the combine for a while. Scott ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 2:30pm
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I think I'd do like Hermin says. Red is plenty strong. Unless there was a threaded hole where you can't get to the back side, I'd be inclined to do it that way. Red is what Ford uses on cab bolts. Makes it real fun sometimes to get them out when removing a cab... ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Ken(MI)
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 3:29pm
| Stick to the blue, and make sure your parts are CLEAN and use primer, red is very aggressive to the point that when used with the primer on larger fasteners (over 2" diameter) assembly cannot be facilitated before it sets, and it WILL need heat and lots of it to get it apart. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 10:06pm
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If they are bolts with nuts use red, you can always twist them off. If they screw into something other than a nut you might want blue althow red will come out most of the time with out heat. MACK |
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2011 at 11:22pm
| I understand the idea of being able to dissasemble( how often is that ever needed?) but the best thing about rivets is they fill the hole tightly along with clamping force which keeps things from moving. |
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2011 at 7:50am
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I agree with Mack. Use red so they don't come apart and if they need to be dissassembled at a later time, bolts that small, the red will either come apart or they will snap off with an impact. Either way you won't have to worry about them coming loose from vibration and wrecking something in the meantime. ------------- 1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221 |
Posted By: Rawleigh
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2011 at 12:24pm
| Just wring them off if you need to take it apart! |