WC runs and then will die
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34182
Printed Date: 08 Aug 2025 at 12:55am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WC runs and then will die
Posted By: plowboy8550
Subject: WC runs and then will die
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2011 at 8:38pm
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Ive got a 1934 wc, I have only had it for about 6 months so I dont know alot about it. According to the previous owner it had just been completely overhauled and carb/ mag rebuilt.
It starts and runs great, but I have run it on some road trips for an hr or more and after an hr or two it will die. When this happens it acts like it runs out of gas, but i always have fuel going to the carb. It will usually start back up after 10 mins or so. The last time when it fired up I had it at less than half throttle and when it fired it took off like the gov was wide open for about 3 secs then it slowed back down. It then died on me about 2 mins later I made it home just putting about 1/4 throttle with no problems.. Sorry for the long post.
Any ideas?? Thanks Matt
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Replies:
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2011 at 8:42pm
How clean is the insise of the tank, my WD used to do that, just a little crud roaming around in there until it gets to the right spot and then it plugs your flow.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2011 at 9:09pm
Could be what Lonnie said. I also had a problem with my C shutting down sometimes. Finally found the problem. Whoever had been in the carb before me had used a pair of vice grips to remove the float needle seat instead of making a flat tool to fit the slots. They had squeezed the brass seat and gotten it into an oval shape. The needle valve is a triangle shape, and periodically, it would vibrate around and wedge closed, blocking the fuel flow. Replaced it with a new seat. No more problems. Might check that too. If it starts back up after a minute or two, you have a fuel problem. If it ran wide open on you with the throttle backed off, it could be that the float level is not right or the float may be leaking. take the carb apart and shake the float while holding it up to your ear. If it sloshes, you need to get another float. I think the float should sit level when the carb is upside down when properly adjusted(im not sure about the WC). Check that too.
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I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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Posted By: AllisChalmers37
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2011 at 10:06pm
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I have to agree with the above. I have a 1948 Oliver 70 that done that, it would run fine for a little while and then die like it ran out of gas. Like you said after about 10 minutes the tractor will fire up like nothing is wrong. I rebuilt the carb and it helped a little but it still would run for a while and die. So I looked in the fuel tank one day and seen the cause of my problems. There was a huge piece of "crap" sticking out of the hole where the gas goes into the fuel line. So I blew it out and that solved it.
I wish you luck with your WC. I have a 1937 Usntyled WC and love it to death, as members on here can tell you, LOL!!
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1937 WC, 1950 CA, 1959 D14, 1967 190XT, 2006 Ram 3500
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Posted By: plowboy8550
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2011 at 10:21pm
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Fuel tank looks good as new on the inside.. Everytime when it dies I check and its getting fuel to the carb. Im not much of a carb man at all but I will check the carb. Thanks for the help. I just dont have much I can do to test it except drive it. I guess i could let it run at half throttle for a couple of hrs but i hate to do that.
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2011 at 11:23pm
Gas tank cap not venting?
A coil or condenser going bad can act that way with delay and after some cooling it will start.
Check the carburetor inlet screen. It gets plugged and slows fuel to the carburetor even though the pipe to the carburetor is open.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: MilesGray (CO/KS)
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 12:55am
My 48C had some gasket material that got sucked down into the top of the fuel bowl. for a long time it would just lay across the opening just enough to make the tractor buck and snort like a bronco, the bucking and snorting would eventually dislodge the material and I could never find it. It eventually hit the vortex on the drain just right and it stopped the tractor dead. When I took the piece out tractor started right up. Now I just wonder if my tractor will have the same 'gas mileage'! Lol!
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Miles Gray (CO/KS)
5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 5:22am
I chased one around like that on my WC. I ended up pulling the drain on the carb and letting fuel run into a container. Would run great for a minute or so and then it would slow to a trickle. Ended up finding a bunch of crud in the tank which would go over the outlet hole and slow the fuel flow and would dislodge. If you have an old small gas tank from a lawnmower etc, you could try that and see if the problem goes away. Good luck.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 5:57am
My WD-45 did the same thing. I did all the gas suggestions with no avail. I put new points and condenser in and seems to work fine. But my C quit and would run for a couple of seconds. Cleaned the carb and that did it.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 8:06am
I have to agree with all the above. However, I favor the coil or condenser in the mag. They can fail by overheating then when cool can start again in a few minutes. Condenser cheap coil more expensive.
However, with a unit this old you may carefully check the fuel flow. Then the carb
Let us know what it is.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 8:27am
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My WD would die after getting fully warmed up. It would start again for a while and die. Very unpredictable. I replaced the coil and it has been fine ever since.
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 9:59am
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If its Mag fired (which most are) it very well could be the condenser or if the Tractor is equipped with the "J" or "RV" series Magneto's, either may have the old style tar taped coil in them. That style coil leaked and grounded itself out after being heated up by the engine. With the hot weather coming on around the country lately, this condition will intensify. Gerald made and excellent suggestion also with the tank not venting. Again, with the heat index outside, that will also create a fuel delivery problem after a while of running time. Run the Tractor for a while, and when it dies out, slowly turn the fuel tank cap. If you hear a whoosh when the cap is loosened, leave the cap loose and see if the Tractor starts right up and runs. If it does, that may be the issue....
mailto:Steve@B&B - Steve@B&B
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 10:16am
One check for fuel is when it starts to stumble, pull on the choke. If its smooths out for a second or two before it dies, it was fuel starvation. As the fuel level goes low in the float bowl, the engine runs lean and choking brings it back to normal or richer, but it empties the bowl quicker, so it stops sooner. if it runs rougher with black exhaust with the choke on, its not fuel starvation and get that choke off ASAP or you may carbon foul the plugs and if Champions they may not clean up. In general they will last much better if not Champions.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Dave Everett
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 12:21pm
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Sounds awfully like mag coil if it runs for that long..........an hour? too long for fuel starvation, just right for the mag to get warm........
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 12:45pm
Gas cap not venting may take that long if the gas level in the tank is low. But coil heating is certainly a possibility.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2011 at 9:41pm
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In terms of elimination, the basic checks, followed by Chuck's small secondary tank is the first thing I go for. Pull the choke to see if it'll 'hang on'... if not, give the mag a goin' thru. The answer will probably find YOU...
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Posted By: plowboy8550
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2011 at 8:22pm
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I havent found anything in the carb, so I am going to look at the mag. I dont know much at all about them. Is there anything that is tricky, or is it pretty straight forward.. Hows the best way to time them? Thanks for all the replies and help sooner or later i will wear her down and get her running good again.
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Posted By: downtownjr
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2011 at 6:03am
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I have looked at a tank and thought it was good and still had something in there. I blew out all the lines and emptied the tank. Just takes a piece of something. I cannot help but think fuel first. Good luck, sounds like a nice tractor
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