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Soldering a gas filler neck on a wc

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33989
Printed Date: 04 Apr 2026 at 9:59pm
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Topic: Soldering a gas filler neck on a wc
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Subject: Soldering a gas filler neck on a wc
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 5:48pm
I want to know a safe way to re-solder the filler neck on my unstyled wc. Also has anyone ever soda blasted the inside of a gas tank? I figuare it will desolve and wash out. And where can I get the lampwick stuff to put under the tank? Thanks for any info.



Replies:
Posted By: AllisChalmers37
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 6:08pm
I don't know about resoldering the tank but when I put the tank back on mine I used some wide strips of weather stripping that I had. It works just as good as the lampwick stuff and I put it under my hood where it comes in contact with my gas tank and radiator. No one will notice the weather stripping and it is alot easier to find. But when I restored mine It didn't have to be 100% origional I wanted mine to be unique.
 
I hope yours turns out nice. I love the unstyled WCs. 


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1937 WC, 1950 CA, 1959 D14, 1967 190XT, 2006 Ram 3500


Posted By: DanD
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 6:17pm
If you fill the tank completely full of water it should drive out the gas fumes.  WOuld only have to let a little of the water out then to solder.


Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 6:20pm
Here's how I look at old tanks and cutting, welding or anything similar.
 
For fuel to blow up, it must be vaporied and mixed with some oxygen, for fuel to vaporize it, must first be a liquid.  If the tanks hasn't had fuel in it for years, sinply fill the tank full of water, drain it and weld to your hearts content.  There may be some varnish, but it won't blow, it may hold a flame and smolder, but nothing more than an oil fire.  The only reason I fill with water is to completly displace any flamable vapors of any kind.  When you drain it, all you pull in is ambient air.


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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
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Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 6:22pm
37 if mine turns out half as good as yours looks this ol fat boy will do cartwheels (spelling).


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 6:34pm
Sometime in the 80's I had a soldered neck come loose on the gas tank of a VW pickup. The shop in Gilbert, IA took the near empty tank out, poured out the rest of the gas, then hooked hose to the filler neck from the exhaust pipe of a chevy pickup setting outside. They let the pickup idle for more than an hour before soldering. Then they heated a soldering copper with an acetylene torch a few feet from the tank and soldered with that. Didn't go bang. Didn't leave water to cause rust or hard running (I found later from buying gas with water in it that the fuel filter wouldn't pass water). The father and son running that shop were on the volunteer fire department with its sstation a half block away. Cost about 1/5th the price of a new tank which was VW's fix. They had soldered gas tanks that way many times before.

Gerald J.


Posted By: TMiller/NC
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 7:04pm
Soldered a gas tank off a car once,  removed tank dumped all the gas and allowed to dry,  turned tank area to be repaired up,  cleaned really good with wire brush, sand paper and steel wool until shiny.  Coated with solder paste.  Used a rather large soldering iron that is heated with a torch.  Hold the heated iron on the area to be repaired until solder melts and flows out fairly even.   Worked pretty good.   Tim


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 8:16pm
Remove gas , rinse tank , use the exhaust method to heat tank to drive out remaining fumes and volatile .. using high watt electric iron or large iron heated away from tank with flame , use a zinc rich acid base flux on wire brushed area and flow solder to desired repair.
 I have also used the moving air method where compressed air is added, thus moved through tank to displace any fumes , the idea being any flammable fumes will be removed by air passing through tank and combustion of those fumes will happen outside tank not internally.


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Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 8:40pm
I've used the air hose method twice and it worked good. First let a garden hose run in the tank for 1/2 hour or so then tape the air nozzle open on the air hose and stick it way in the tank so it can't fall out. Then solder away. Did it to my E Gleaner tank at home when the filler neck broke loose and a C Allis once when I worked at the Allis dealer way back when. I'll say that I was a bit worried about it the first time but the shop foreman assured me it was safe. The boss on the other hand wasn't to happy I did it and he WAS on the local fire department.

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Posted By: MBWisc
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2011 at 8:17am
Mine has rivets as well as solder. You can get the correct welting material at any fabric shop. 


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2011 at 9:41am
Many hardware stores well flat strap used to close packages or tie down trailer batteries. It comes in several colors, is nylon and lasts very well. I don't know how it takes paint.

Gerald J.


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2011 at 9:44am
Try again. Many hardware stores SELL woven flat strap in a couple widths used to close packages or make tie downs. The strap material comes in several colors and is made of nylon. I don't know if it survives paint solvents. It could make very durable welting.

Upholstery material stores would also have a variety of welting used in making chair cushion supports, probably tending to be on the wide side for tractor welting.

Gerald J.



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