Print Page | Close Window

HELP 7010 powershift Dr Allis Mack

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33027
Printed Date: 14 May 2024 at 6:44am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: HELP 7010 powershift Dr Allis Mack
Posted By: Clay Bragg
Subject: HELP 7010 powershift Dr Allis Mack
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2011 at 9:13pm
I was mowing hay with my 7010 powershift today,(disked 200 acres with 20ft 480 international disk last month with no trouble)ground speed started slowing down.looks like hyd oil coming from behind the flywheel.can something screw up to cause excessive trans preasure?1800 rpm light has always worked properly and is not on abnormally.Anything to check before I split it?anything else to service inside while its down. thanks Clay



Replies:
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2011 at 10:01pm
If it is hyd. oil, the nut on ftont of PS may have come off. If the nut came loose it is a complete rebuild.  
  If you are lucky it is engine oil from rear main seal.   MACK


Posted By: Clay Bragg
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2011 at 10:31pm

definatley hy tran wher can i purchase some good splitting stands?



Posted By: bill2260
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2011 at 6:44am
What causes the nut to come off power shift? Have seen post on this before. Thanks, Bill


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2011 at 6:50am
The locking tab ring allows the nut to start to work loose and then eventually shears off the tab and then bad things happen. It is not terribly common but, as these tractors get older we may see more. Whenever I have a PowerShift tractor split for any reason, I put a stake/center punch mark on the inside diameter of the nut, inline with a keyway on the clutch housing nose so the nut can't ever back off. If I ever need to remove the nut for trans repairs years down the road, I use a sharp chisel and split the nut at the center punch mark.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2011 at 7:25am
I have seen the housing break off behind the nut, have saw the threads stripped with the lock still in tack. No good reason, but it happens from time to time.
 As far as splitting stands, a set to support the motor is all you need. Remove the PS with the motor then remove PS from motor.  MACK


Posted By: Clay Bragg
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2011 at 4:56pm

can you check clutch packs for wear or would you just replace them all?torque limiter?Bearings?thanks



Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2011 at 5:11pm
here's a good place for stands, spendy, but safe..
 
http://www.cofersales.com/ - http://www.cofersales.com/


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 12:38pm
I would replace clutch plates in C1 and A2. Any others thar are warped or has foreign materal through them. As far as wear, check the splines on plates for wear. The plates very seldem wear unless they are warped.    MACK



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net