CA Draw Bar Solution for Planter
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32291
Printed Date: 21 Sep 2025 at 6:37pm
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Topic: CA Draw Bar Solution for Planter
Posted By: wkpoor
Subject: CA Draw Bar Solution for Planter
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2011 at 5:13pm
Bought a pretty nice planter last summer that came off a WD. Pretty much decided a CA hitch simply would not exist to find seperate for it but thought why wouldn't the CA draw bar fit right where the WD did. Somebody else on here had or has a similar problem. Seems these are way easier to find set up for WD than CA. I started by removing all of the WD monkey motion associated with the lift and the markers. 2 chains like shown and bolting the CA bar on the planter hitch and wala! As for the markers I have them in nice shape but have decided not to use them for now because I figure I can follow my wheel tracks just as good. Planter in the pic is in the beginning stages of going back together after 20+ hours of power washing and degreasing. The old guy must have poured a whole qt in each hopper after every season for 40 yrs because I never seen anything as greasy as that planter was. Good thing was it perserved it all. I'll repost when its all together. I decided to just get it in working condition this year and maybe in the future I'll take it completely down for a complete restore. I did dissasemble completely the seed and fertilizer hoppers, sprayed with oven cleaner and power washed everything. The sprayed flat black to hold it till I do more.
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Replies:
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2011 at 10:20pm
| You don't need to bolt the drawbar the way you did. See the c shaped bracket about the end of and above the drawbar? The end of the drawbar slips into it and a pin is inserted. no bolts needed. I have a sub soiler with the same hitch and use it on my CA. Bob |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2011 at 11:41pm
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Chalmersbob wrote:Posted By: John (C-IL)
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 8:02am
| I would be concerned about the chain solution, those lift arms are designed for a straight up and down load and you risk bending them with a lateral load when you have the full weight of the planter and any seed and fertilizer in the planter. A bar straight across with some lift links would make a big difference. I think you should also take a look at hooking up the drawbar properly, the correct geometry on the lift arms will resolve any slop issues you are encountering. A little slop is a good thing as it will keep things from binding up and allow the planter to follow properly. |
Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 8:21am
Yes bolt the drawbar in where it is supposed to go, and hook the chains up vertical so you don't bend anything, I have mine hooked up to our CA and it works great. It is hard to see but here is a picture, if you want more pictures let me know. I have since hooked the lift chains up to the bolt holes closer to the tractor and the markers to the holes farther away from the tractor and it works good.
 ------------- Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 8:28am
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I started by removing all of the WD monkey motion associated with the lift. I'm sure Allis engineers had a reason for all that or they wouldn't have added it. I always thought the only difference in the 2 systems was the width of the lift arms. I know several people have just narrowed the lift links on the Snap Couple implements to change from WD to CA. I'm with Bob and John in my thinking on this. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 9:42am
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Original setup for CA had cross chains that why I did it that way. Still plenty of slop. Can't imagine leaving that draw bar loose though. Every time you lift and lower it will be slapping the planter tongue. So far in mock trials its glass smooth and has all the side to side and angled float you would want or need. I will entertain that maybe straight chains would be just as good too. The cross seemed to just add a little stability without loosing the float. |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 11:38am
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I went out a tried them straight vs crossed and it will slop around easier with straight chains however I agree the straight won't harm the lift arms and that additional movement won't really hurt anything. I used to not question engineers and was even taught the "they did that way for a reason" thing....and my Dad was an engineer. However after 25yrs as an aircraft technician on transport category aircraft I can assure you they don't always get it right and often totally over engineer stuff. More than once a mechanic had a better idea and it was incorporated into the product. So if they can make mistakes on Boeing's then I'm open to the possibility something as simple as an Allis 2 row planter might have room for improvement. As for bending the arms thing....well I'm thinking I've never seen a set bent so they must be pretty rugid or surely like everything else most of them would be. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 4:51pm
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I've never seen a set on a CA bent either but most of these tractors had original equipment used with them. I have seen the forged steel WD and 45 lift arms bent, more than likely cause something had pulled from the side of the arm instead of straight up. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:14pm
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Thanks for pointing out the chain thing guys. Its easy to get tunnel vision on a project. I shortened them and hung them straight. Drove around with it and decided along as I use common sense and don't make road speed tight turns it will be fine. I could add secondary cross chains but really don't see it necessary. I still think the draw bar bolted is better than loose on the pin so I'm not changing that for now.
Its coming together nicely. Bought alot of stainless hardeware for the fertilizer cans and bases units. I only have one good drop tube so I got rubber couplers at the hardware and PVC pipe. Well see when its togther if its rigged looking or not. I'm sure it will be functional.
The way I see it is keeping the fertilizer assemblies rust free is as simple as umbolting the cans, pulling off the rotating auger assembly and hosing off. Then maybe a spray down with a light oil. Yet it seems it was standard practise to pour straight motor oil right in without cleaning. What a mess that makes. Owners son said he used it right up until he died. Ain't no way that planter was used in the last 10yrs. Every part of it was layers of dried grease and oil to the point all passage ways where plugged.
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Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 8:05pm
| You can't lift enough weight with a CA to bend the lift. The width of the arm spacing doesn't really effect the peformance of the implement as long as the implement can swing. I use a WD plow on my CA without any modifications. I also use a rear cultivator from a WD on my CA, but there the mounting is tight. It took a little spacing of the lift arms on the cultivator. Bob |