WD45 hydraulic lever creeps up
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32198
Printed Date: 29 Aug 2025 at 8:24pm
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Topic: WD45 hydraulic lever creeps up
Posted By: Osage_Orange
Subject: WD45 hydraulic lever creeps up
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:32pm
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Hydraulics work fine, both up and down. The lever slowly creeps up, drawbar raises, and will bend the pto shaft if I don't see it in time. I can secure the lever with a clamp of some kind, but thought maybe there is a simple adjustment of the linkage or pump that will solve the problem. Comments?
See pic below. ------------- Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it? |
Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 11:22pm
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Lever creep is common I think. What kind of drawbar do you have that raises up with the lift arms, or could hit the PTO? I have a 3 way valve installed on my pump that either runs fluid to the loader arms, the lift arms or the remote connection? If I set it for the remote, without having anything connected, it will not do anything except bypass when it tries to pump and I hear it and pull the lever back down. Maybe you need a bungee cord. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 11:23pm
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I think the friction blocks can wear and might need replacing or the spring on the front side of the quadrant may need replacing.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Osage_Orange
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 9:02am
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This is the setup. 7 foot, model 307 Bush Hog. There is normally approx. 8 inches clearance between drawbar and pto shaft. There have been a few times where the drawbar creeped up and was running against the drive line..........no serious problems......but I'm sure the lift has enough power to bend "something". Sometimes I need to manually raise the drawbar to clear stumps, rocks, cross ditches etc. I may have to just fasten the control lever down with a bungee cord or something. Was hoping someone else has encountered this and found a good solution.  ------------- Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it? |
Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 9:11am
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New Springs and New Friction blocks should fix the problem. ------------- Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 10:05am
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I would try replacing the springs and friction blocks on the quadrant but that set-up looks like an accident waiting to happen. I would remove the three point drawbar and use the original tractor drawbar. Find a decent used one way cylinder to mount on the mower and connect it to the remote hook up. It looks like your pto shaft is extended about as far as it can go without coming apart. There is a standard for drawbar to PTO shaft which is 14 inches, using the add on 3 pt drawbar looks like you are way past that. Then you can get rid of the cross chains that keep the 3pt from dropping. It is also pretty simple to add a diverter valve to your lift arm circuit so they can be set where you want them and shut off. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: David(Stockbridge)MI
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 1:21pm
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Blocks & Springs in stock if you need them. www.djstractorparts.intuitwebsites.com
blocks on web, spring new item and not uploaded yet.... call 734-320-3470 ------------- All "NEW" Web Site http://www.djstractorparts.com 2035,A,U,UC,WF unstyled,WF styled,WC High Crop (cane),RC,B,IB,C,CA,WD,WD45,G,D10,D12,D14,D15,D15 II,D17,D19,WC styled,WC unstyled H3 crawler |
Posted By: Auntwayne
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 9:37pm
| I definitely agree with Charlie, all "that" is add on to add on, its starting to create problems, start fresh !!! |
Posted By: acwdwcman
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 9:40pm
------------- wd with a freeman model 90 trip loader, wd45, 38 unstylled wc, b 10 garden tractor and 2-14 ac trip plow. grandpa has a 56 wd45. wd. allis chalmers snap coupler blade and 3 bottom snap coupler plow |
Matt MN wrote:Posted By: Pat the Plumber CIL
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 10:24pm
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I agree with Charlie,use the original drawbar.Don't get me wrong fix the creeping lever(I do not know how,but someone on here does) but use the draw bar to get that mower closer.That PTO shaft will last a lot longer if it is together farther.I mow with a WD45 and use a remote cylinder on mower to raise and lower. On our farm as a kid the rotary mower only had a ratchet to raise and lower.Never was a problem,set height and leave it alone.Unless a rock or stump came up you could not raise and go over was only concern. ------------- You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails 1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
Posted By: AC WD45
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 10:42pm
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I agree wit the above, use the original drawbar, save your self the trouble of problems down the road. ------------- German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193 |
Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2011 at 7:00am
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It is not how I would have fixed the problem, but my WD45 has a series of little holes bored through the throttle and hydraulic quadrants. You find which holes you like, drop in a nail, and there you go. Of course, when you need to pick it up real quick, you have to work fast... an idea I actually probably would try, to verify that the creep is all where you think it is, put a layer or two of the handyman's secret weapon (duct tape) on the quadrant. That will make the tolerances tighter, and should add some friction to boot. If it stays where it is supposed to, you can finish your work, know what the problem is, then fix it right when you have time.
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Posted By: Osage_Orange
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2011 at 10:29pm
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After reading the safety concerns about my setup, I checked a few things. The exposed inner (square) part of the cutter drive line is 12 inches. There is an additional 12 inches inside the cylindrical part of the drive line when the tractor is going in a straight line. The exposed part is shorter when making turns. It is seven inches from the center of the hole in the tractor drawbar to the center of the hole in the 3-pt drawbar. I may decide to make some changes after the brush hogging season is over this year. In the meantime, I'll just put an easily removable clamp over the hydraulic control lever to keep it from moving. Thanks for all the comments. ------------- Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it? |