WC Won't Start
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29795
Printed Date: 10 Sep 2025 at 10:14am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WC Won't Start
Posted By: jshoemaker
Subject: WC Won't Start
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2011 at 10:46am
My rebuilt 1948 WC won't start after a rain. It is housed in a garage all the time and is mainly a show tractor. It has a new distributor cap, plug wires, coil, etc. but won't start until a day or two after the rain. Is this typical or what might be the problem? Thanks for any help.
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1948 WC
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Replies:
Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2011 at 10:55am
High humidity,no ventilation will build up moisture inside distributor and cap.
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2011 at 11:02am
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J - 1st Check for voltage at the coil. Then check for spark at the coil wire, when you crank over the engine. If no spark, I would remove the Dist Cap and clean the points. Don't use a file. Just clean with a piece of cardboard and some tuner cleaner. They probably have a thin film on them from sitting for a while. Retry for spark by moving points open and close and checking spark from coil wire.
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Posted By: Dave Richards (WV)
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2011 at 11:35am
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Pop the distributor cap open and work the distributor and cap over with a hair dryer for about 5 minutes. Should start then.
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Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2011 at 12:15pm
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Depending on which mag you have there are gaskets under the cap(s), one or two depends on model. If you dont have them you need to get them. Then next time it isnt raining (if ever?? LOL) or a time of high humidity remove the cap and dry things out good inside with a hair drier. Get it good and warm, you wont hurt it with a hair drier. While the caps are off take a look for carbon tracks inside of the cap, also look at the grommet where the kill wire stud comes through the case and if cracked it needs replaced also. If the grommet and stud has been painted over remove the paint. Then reassemble with the new gaskets. Have also seen problems with the kill wire or switch with dampness. To check remove the kill wire at the mag and try to start it. It could also be the new wires or cap are defective unless NOS F-M parts. China is fully capible of screwing up anything. One last thing is do you know if the mag is putting out as it should be? It is not rare to have one that will barely start an engine under good circimstances and then a little loss here and there from humidity will put it down. It may need to have the magnets charged up.
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2011 at 9:44pm
Since you noted "distributor cap and wires" and year being '48, I'm assuming it doesn't have a magneto.
First thing I would do, is lift the coil wire, place it within 'reach' of the block, and roll it over, see if you get a good hot spark... if you do, the distributor ain't distributing. If it isn't, the breakers ain't breakin'. Lift the cap, rotor, and shield, watch the points. When you DO get spark, if you see a big spark at the points, the condenser is fried.
Of course, if you have spark, and it's distributing properly, but still won't start, it's because some OTHER piece of the 'recipie for fire' is missing.
Oxygen
Fuel
Compression
Source of ignition
Synchronicity (things happening in proper sequence).
You say rain... so one thing I would think... if it's not electrical, check the oil-bath air filter, make sure it's not filled up with rain and somehow choking off the airflow (flooding the engine with too much fuel)... make sure your fuel is actually fuel, not water.
What's the possibility that your ignition switch was marginal, and a little water and/or corrosion has made it defunct?
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