morton building
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25541
Printed Date: 17 Jun 2025 at 9:12pm
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Topic: morton building
Posted By: allis1984
Subject: morton building
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2011 at 11:10am
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anyone ever frame off and insulate half of your building? One half of ours is concrete and has to roller doors. we are gonna turn it into our shop. Just wondering what the best way to insulate it would be.
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Replies:
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2011 at 11:43am
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On the ceiling I would look as sprayed foam. One problem when heat is added in metal building is condensation on metal roof underside in area. IT RAINS in there after a while.
I put metal sheet aross lower truss cord and put 12" of fiberglass on top of metal but moisture gets up to actual roof and condenses and freezes. Sidewalls can be any material as long as covered with inside wall, I used 1 1/2 white styrafoam on mine and covered with 3/8 plywood. Outer metal is fastened to 2 X 4 laid flat so i just filled in the gap with the white board and covered over.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Posted By: woodbutch
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2011 at 8:26pm
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Have Morton shed for shop,and it has the 1/2" ridged foam that was installed under metal sheet. Then we added framing on bottom of rafters, nailed 3/4" ridged foam board, then blown fiberglass insulation. Easy to heat and stays 80 when it's 100 outside. The way to stop the condensation is to keep warm air away from cold metal.
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Posted By: ToddSin NY
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 4:07pm
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We have tin (?) siding on the inside of dads shop with blown in insulation in the walls and the ceiling. We have never had an issue with it raining on the inside. We keep it about 40 at night and warm it up to about 50-52 in the day time.
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Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2011 at 8:26am
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I am gonna do that. I think the issue here is if he is gonna put a ceiling over the shop portion.
I have plans to do that this spring and will frame the top of the shop with joists and flooring so I can have stairs up there to store some "treasure." However it is about 14 feet to where the roof trusses are set on the frame so I got some room to utilize up there.
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Posted By: RMD
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2011 at 10:42am
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Whatever you do, don't use fiberglass or blown-in insulation that is going to provide rodents with a lifetime supply of bedding material. I have a detached frame garage that a previous owner insulated half of with sheet rock walls and ceiling and fiberglass. The fiberglass ablove the ceiling is absolutely full of rodent droppings/urine and acorn/hickory nut hulls.
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Posted By: Ron S/IL
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2011 at 11:43am
Be careful when adding a ceiling to a pole barn. Many pole barns are not designed for a ceiling load. If you install a ceiling and the load was not figured into the design you greatly increase the chance of failure. You also would void the warranty on the building.
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Ron Stork
Co-Owner Sign Solutions and Promotions.
We can custom make signs, decals and any promotional items you may want.
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2011 at 7:56am
I was actually cautioned as to not finishing out the inside of a truss construction pole barn as the roof truss load was not designed for internal loading. These are not house designed trusses and they are not on 2' centers with center support walls in contrast to home construction. I am looking to build a barn on our new place within a year or so, it will need to be designed with living spaces in mind to do just this same idea.
Another of my cronies built a 'Game Room' pole barn but he has found why it wasn't a good idea; the roof does not seal well to the wall panels, it let moisture in large quantity to the inside, that in turn kept the insulation wetted over the last five years with this not only developed mold and damaged the drywall he put in but has started rusting out the wainscot panels around the base of the building. He is in the process of tearing down the whole structure to the framing and roofing to start over as it is a mess.
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Posted By: Eric[IL]
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2011 at 1:42pm
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I second the spray on insulation. It will reduce condensation, some roof weight, & shop noise inside the structure.
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Posted By: oldironguy
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 8:21am
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One of the best ideas I've seen is to install horizontal "bookshellves" between the poles and use whatever insulation you choose between them. The inside edge of the "shelves" then serve as nailers for whatever interior finish (sheet metal, drywall, paneling, etc) you wish to use.
I used fibereglass bats in the ceiling between the trusses then laid 2 inch rigid pink foam boards above that . The foam stops most of the water that drips from the roof sheeting.
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Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 2:33am
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when i put up my new 40x60 shop...by astro, had them put the insulation on before the tin work, they said it would rain inside just once after completed, then wouldn't after that! they were right!
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Posted By: Breeze
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2011 at 8:34am
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Shameless, whats up with the rain once.
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Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2011 at 1:01pm
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condensation i guess breeze! put it up in the spring, all frost was outta the ground, and a day or two after it being done, it rained inside just like they said it would, and just as they said..only did it once! dangest thing i ever seen!
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Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2011 at 1:10pm
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a friend of mine put that pink board in between the inside nailers on the outside walls, he then stapled plastic over that, then nailed nailers on the inside posts, nailed tin on the inside nailers up so far, about 6 ft, then used that blow in insulation behind the tin. he then went up the next 5-7 foot and did the same thing. reason for the 2-part job, was so the blow in stuff wouldn't get bridged up leaving a void in the wall. that was about a 60x80 building. heated the whole thing with one of those double barrel wood stoves, in the dead of winter like zero degrees and below outside, it was t-shirt weather inside!
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2011 at 1:34pm
I had a Morton put up 28 years ago and have added on twice. It has 2x4's on edge on 18" centers for roof boards. I put 3-1/2" fiber glass between the 2x4's and 1" foil faced foam on the bottom of them for the ceiling. I ran 2x4's horizontal on 2' centers flush with the inside edge of the posts, for the side walls, then put in 6-1/2" fiber glass, and covered with 7/16" OSB sheets.
I've been very happy with this. If anyone would like to stop and look I'd be glad to show you.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2011 at 5:20pm
I was warned of the same thing when they put up mine some years ago. Second day it rained inside, then quit and hasn't done it again. I was told it was due to the mositure wicking out of the concrete as it cured.
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When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!
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