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L3 Gleaner

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=208664
Printed Date: 25 Jan 2026 at 11:34am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: L3 Gleaner
Posted By: SteveMaskey(MO)
Subject: L3 Gleaner
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2025 at 9:45am
What is the correct adjustment for the cylinder door? Mine will come open without tripping the latch. I have the little flat irons out as far as they will go and still won't hold. I guess build them up a little. I can't find them in the AGCO parts site


Replies:
Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2025 at 2:14pm
I got curious when i saw your post. I wondering if the pivot for the door itself is worn enough to allow it move over enough to slide off at the latch side when it gets pressure on it. Or the latch where it sits on the plates is worn off rounded. If you can post what you find ti fix it. It will be interesting to find out

-------------
1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor

Posted By: Northern Hoser
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2025 at 5:20pm
Both mine have had the plates for there the pins sit welded up by either me or previous owners. They just seem to wear out over time with all the vibrations going through that area, and also the pivot pin for the door itself.  Once you get that sorted out so that there's enough meat there to hold the pins, those plates are shimmed to get the door tight to the base of the concave. 

Getting that just right, I don't know the text book answer, maybe someone else does but I have mine set so it takes a bit of effort to get closed; to compress the cam spring to over center it, but not so much you have to get on your back and use your legs lol. 

If its that tight I'd suggest loosening it off. 

Too loose it'll move around a bit too much and wear out those plates. Too tight and she might not open up when it needs too. 

With mine set so that a good shove will cam over and set the pins, a large wad will open the door but stay shut for normal operations. 

Matt.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2025 at 7:02pm
I'm pretty sure the Owners manual has 1 or 2 pages of pictures and adjustment information. Worn parts have to be addressed for sure.

Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2025 at 8:43pm
The striker plates and shims for the rock door latch are bolted to the front side of the concave assembly. The concave is obviously directly under the cylinder. The concave also sits on top of a frame work that has the threasher raddle running through it. The threasher raddle takes the grain that has passed through the concave and sends it on to the separator raddle. Over time and the constant pressure of material pushing down on the concave, the entire assembly can move down and get the rock door adjustment all out of wack. Look at the assembly from a side view, especially the front boot where the threasher raddle drive shaft is,and see if the hardware is broken, loose, or bent. That whole assembly should be up and tight against the bottom of the throat.

Posted By: SteveMaskey(MO)
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2025 at 8:19am
After I priced the striker plates from AGCO ($46.25 for a flat iron 7/8" wide 3/16" thick and 3 1/2" long) I did like the previous owners and built it up.

Posted By: Northern Hoser
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2025 at 4:46pm
If you don't have the manual as Doc suggests, which as he says it outlines the procedure which should be followed, here it is. This is picking it up after the warnings etc, and following item 4 is a warning about how the thresher door can swing down violently causing injury when opened up so be careful....which should be understood before starting any of this...

1. Remove the header, fully raise the thresher housing and engage the SAFETY RAM STOP. Following the safety DANGER notes above. (Safety ram stop in place, parking brake set, engine off and stopped, key removed, nobody in the cab) 

2. If the thresher concave door is open; swing the door shut to the rear and up and hold it firmly in place while rotating the lever assembly forward and up until the rear corners of the lever assembly contact the striker plates on the concave bottom. Hold the front of the lever assembly  tightly against the door and push each of the latches to the rear until they lock the front of the lever assembly in place.

3. Check through the opening in the right and left hand rib to see that the lever assembly is against the stop. If not, remove the shims from under the striker plates until the lever just contacts the stops (If I get this correctly, it means the lever has to be fully cammed over and not still in transition when the door is shut)

4. If the lever assembly is against the stop, push up hard on the concave door. If the rear of the lever assembly moves up away from the striker plates the door needs adjusting. Place one or more of the stored shims, from the lower side of the concave bottom, between the top of the striker plates and the rear of the lever assembly until the gap is filled when the door is held up as far as it will go. Then unlatch and open the concave door, remove the striker plates and add the shims that were used to fill the gap at each plate between the plate and the concave bottom. Securely bolt the striker plates in place. (Basically a quicker way of determining how many shims are required without opening and closing the door a whole bunch)


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