Farm Equipment - 8050 Vibration Damper

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8050 Vibration Damper

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=208490
Printed Date: 29 Nov 2025 at 5:43am
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Topic: 8050 Vibration Damper

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Subject: 8050 Vibration Damper
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2025 at 8:51pm

I noticed a slight wobble of the crankshaft pulley while the engine was running. Looking closer I noticed the neoprene on the damper was cracked and not spaced evenly around the circumference. Didn't look like there was any recent movement, but don't think this is proper. I tried doing a search for this subject and came up empty. I seem to remember this topic discussed on here before and believe there was a place out in the NW USA that rebuilds dampers. Would appreciate thoughts and comments on this.

Replies:

Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 6:07am

Jim, it has been discussed. Seems like not that long ago. If memory serves a dampener from a Detroit diesel of some sort might work?

Here's one link; https://www.allischalmers.com/FORUM/7080-looking-for-advice_topic204806_post1753618.html?KW=dampener#1753618" rel="nofollow - https://www.allischalmers.com/FORUM/7080-looking-for-advice_topic204806_post1753618.html?KW=dampener#1753618

Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 7:40am

Mike's link discusses the fluid dampeners used on the higher horsepower engines. I'm not sure if the guy in Oregon?? is still rebuilding the rubber dampeners. Dale manufacturing, I think.

Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 7:56am

Right Jim is referring to the rubber in the crank pulley

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 9:51am

Dr Allis had one rebuilt not so long ago.....

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 10:50am

Yes, and I had it done by Dale Mfg in Salem, Oregon. Address is 3425 Fairhaven Ave NE zip 97301. Email: langsatherdavid@gmail.com It is my understanding that he has officially retired now, but check that out for yourself. A & I products has new ones with p/n A-74037126.

Posted By: ecosse23
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2025 at 1:40pm

Purely out of curiosity I had a google search, and turned up a firm in California -

http://damperdoctor.com/" rel="nofollow - http://damperdoctor.com/ - which lists custom rebuilding of harmonic balancers, including for heavy equipment. May be worth asking them, just in case they can help?

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2025 at 6:29am

Thank you all for the helpful information. Will do some research on repair or replacement, and update with results. In reading the Service Manual for the tractor, it states that in order to replace this crankshaft pulley, "....Support front end of tractor and remove front support and front axle assembly." Mine has FWA. Really, you have to do all this to remove the pulley?

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2025 at 7:49am

You will be pulling from 3 (of 6) 7/16" NC holes in the center hub. Loosen the crank nose bolt a couple of turns so the washer behind the bolt head is obviously loose. Make yourself a 1/2" thick plate (or thicker) with three holes to line up with the holes you are going to pull from. Use grade 8 hardware and run a tap thru the holes to get good connection depth. Mine is a 3/4" plate with a 1 inch hole in the center. I have a 1 inch NF nut welded to the inside of the plate and use a 1 inch NF Gr8 bolt for the pusher screw. You can use a short porto-power ram too if you desire. Sometimes takes 10 tons. Radiator shroud and fan must be removed to gain access. Front end stays put, but it's a tight area for sure.

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2025 at 8:36pm

Doctor, thanks for that great time saver. I have to wonder if A-C had an ACT tool for that or did every dealer just make their own?

Posted By: orangereborn
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2025 at 12:07am

I will jump in here about the damper doctor. I tried in the last year to contact about a damper and did not have any luck.. coupler of years ago I did the same about a fluid damper with the same results.. so I was not sure of their existence. The site looked active...Let us know if it was just timing...Thanks...Dale

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2025 at 5:59am

What I have described allows for removal in chassis. Any other type of puller needs the front of the engine exposed to have room for pulley removal.

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 11:48am

Thanks DrAllis, I'll be making one of those puller plates myself. I ended up ordering an A&I pulley from a local dealer for $475, A&I on ebay was $461, Damper Doctor rebuild was $600 plus shipping, Dale Mfg. is closed down. Once I receive the new pulley, I'll use it to get measurements for the puller plate and holes. DrAllis, I have a machine shop that can laser cut me a 1" thick plate. If I have the plate threaded in the center for the 1"NF pusher bolt, that would gain me another 3/4" at least to work with. Since I don't have mine apart yet, do you think that extra 3/4" would help any vs welding a nut to the plate as far as space goes?

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 12:47pm

With the proper length 7/16" gr 8 pulling bolts, I've never had an issue with the 1 inch NF nut under the plate. The pulley only has to move 1/16" as it is a tapered nose on the crank. Also, any mild steel plate threads are not nearly as robust as a regulation 1 inch gr 8 nut for thread strength.

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 5:35pm

Looks like I'll be able to make it myself then. Didn't realize this was a tapered fit. Thanks again for your help!

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2025 at 11:45pm

Once it goes "POP" it's off....you can begin to think it's not coming off...don't soil your britches when it happens.