Clutch Safety Switch AC6080 2WD
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=208177
Printed Date: 06 Nov 2025 at 5:18pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Clutch Safety Switch AC6080 2WD
Posted By: REM
Subject: Clutch Safety Switch AC6080 2WD
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2025 at 4:19pm
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Can anyone tell me where the Clutch Safety Switch is located on an AC6080 2WD?
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Replies:
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2025 at 4:50pm
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Remove the black panel down by you feet. Maybe about 8 metric bolts to remove. It's in there. If it won't crank over, there are a couple of PTO safety switches that can also cause that.
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2025 at 8:21pm
It’s a real pain to get to it so be prepared. The pto switches are on the right side of the transmission below the pto disconnect lever. There are 2 of those. All 3 switches are the same type. Make sure you get them adjusted correctly or you will damage the switch.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2025 at 12:54pm
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There's more to it. Of the two switches on the right hand side, one of them is for the engine cranking circuit. The other one, just turns the light on in the dash. There's a second PTO safety switch for engine cranking on the left-hand side, below the seasonal disconnect lever. At least one of the levers has to be in a disconnect position before the engine will turn over. Between the switches, wiring connections, and voltage drop in the harnesses, it can cause a low voltage problem at the starter solenoid. An auxiliary slave solenoid or relay can help to make sure that you're getting a solid 12 volts to the white wire on the starter solenoid.
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2025 at 9:35pm
Forgot about that one Lynn, good catch. Haven’t had an issue with it yet.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Posted By: REM
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2025 at 6:45pm
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Usually if I press the Clutch Pedal 3 or 4 times it will crank.
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2025 at 8:02pm
If that's the case it may just be out of adjustment. Locking nut may have backed off. Ours started that way but eventually replaced it.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2025 at 9:30pm
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Does it make a click noise at the starter every time, even if it won't crank over? You can bypass the clutch safety switch with a jumper wire to see if that makes the starter engage every time.
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Posted By: REM
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2025 at 10:20am
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Its been awhile since I am able to respond, but I appreciate ever ones input. Yes it does make a click noise every time. I have had the starter kick in even when the clutch is not depressed.
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2025 at 10:34am
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Sounds like the contacts inside the starter solenoid are getting bad.
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Posted By: REM
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2025 at 7:32pm
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Is there any possibility that it is the ignition switch
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2025 at 11:10pm
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The ignition switch is of course a possibility, but not in my opinion. It certainly sounds like you are getting a signal to the starter from the key switch and other safety switches, plus the harness. This can be easily checked with a simple test light. The white wire on the solenoid should be powered up every time you try to crank it over. Even if it lights up, that won't tell you how much voltage the white wire is receiving. You'll need a volt meter for that. You can further test it by jumping that small terminal with the white wire to the large terminal with the battery cable. A screwdriver or anything metallic will work. BE ADVISED, DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL, APPLY THE PARK BRAKE AND LEAVE THE KEY IN THE OFF POSITION. You don't need the key on to do this test and you don't want the engine to start anyway. If the engine cranks when doing this, then you're probably getting a low voltage signal from the white wire. A simple relay should fix that. The starter could also need a new solenoid, have poor connections at the starter, or even be extremely dry inside the starter. Probably a lucas starter, so be sure to look over the connections at the solenoid and the little strap from the solenoid to the starter case. If you don't know how to do these things, then it might be best to get some outside help. We don't want anyone getting run over by an unwanted startup.
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Posted By: REM
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2025 at 2:56pm
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Thank you I greatly appreciate your input and advice.
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