Have a DewEze Bale Mobale (aka, hay monster) that starts and runs fine. Unless you manage to kill it when hot. Then it won't start. An other wise fully charged battery can barely turn it over. But give it a couple hours to cool down and she turns over and starts right u.

Engine is a 318 Chrysler........with carter 2 barrel carb.......from early 70's. Hay monster built on Dodge D600 truck chassis. Aside from the hydraulics, more or less a stock truck.

Any ideas on why it won't start? Carb vapor locked maybe?

Now that I think of it, there may be another cause/fix. The fuel line from the fuel pump is now exposed. Somebody had wrapped it with a glass mat insulation and black tape, but that is now gone. I have some insulation tube that I forgot to install. That may help. It also may not help that the radiator and fan are mounted up high and remote. No cooling fan on the motor block itself, so no help for the fuel line.

Ground could also do it, but this one has black battery cable running directly from battery to the chassis frame.

Previous owner told me he was also looking for a coil, so that may help too.

Can't ever recall any farm truck.....once it was running and warmed up......not starting.

Since last year, new points, plugs, condenser and distributor cap. Was advised to get new air filter. I said was probably fine, but did so anyway. Hard to find industrial canister type. Pulled out old filter and found a birds nest and feathers helping filter. Running on a new filter now.

New gas tank (aluminum fuel cell sold to race car guys), new starter, new battery, new gauges, including tach with hour meter. Those are hard to find. 

Did look at battery cables and they are smaller gauge than I remember. Can put on larger ones.

Is it possible something in the engine is  expanding enough when hot to be that much of a problem turning it over? Engine has enough power to spin it but battery and starter don't?

Fresh 10-30 oil.......looks clean and slick.

Ed (Ont) wrote: You have thrown a lot of parts at it and none of those will cure the problem you said you had which seems to be not turning over well hot. Check your timing to see that it is correct. Too much advance could cause that same problem. Put a starter on it. Or get yours rebuilt - that may be the better option give the poor parts quality these days.

Agreed.......except most of those parts were intended to bring it back from the dead. A classic case of "it was running when parked". Had sat in the weeds for 3 or 4 years. Little to none of it to address current problem of not starting when hot. For now, that is just an annoyance. I'm careful not to kill it till the day is done.

But we are now using it. Picking up about 400 bales with it tomorrow. Back in the day, I"m told a good crew would not show up for a job less than 1,000 bales. I don't have that kind of crew.

Agreed, wouldn't surprise me at all if the new starter is failing when hot.

If certain the load is coming off of the engine when not operating, install either in series a shunt fed, or inductive clamp on ammeter and measure starting current. If you see over 800A inrush on starting current, start moving downstream first removing the starter motor and bench testing. Chrysler gear reduction starters should show about 90A inrush when bench testing with no load as example. within about two seconds taper to 30A or less. 

I would agree with electrical connection integrity. I like a minimum of 2AWG from the negative battery post to both the engine block, and frame rail in a gasoline engine application. 2/0AWG in diesel applications. Land that negative lead under a starter mounting fastener is preferred and use dielectric paste to keep corrosion at bay.  

  

Lars(wi) wrote: When you say ‘kill it’ are referring to stalling the engine, or turning the ignition off?

Both of those. Biggest risk is when nudging front end into a barn with full load of 150 bales. That is nearly 4 tons of hay. Helps that transmission is geared way down, but can still be kind of exciting getting it where it needs to be without hitting anything.

Another time was when we had to shut it down to add fuel. Only made that mistake once.

Still odd that when I go out later today, she will fire right up on first turn. But if hot.......at moment of kill, can barely turn engine over with fully charged battery. Half an hour later, will turn over, but drags as if battery is on last legs. But no fire or hint of wanting to start. But once cool, fires right up.

Hydraulics is powered by a single small pump mounted on frame in front of engine. A pto shaft runs from front pulley off crankshaft to the pump. If engine is turning, pump is pumping. Hydraulics running off the pump include a remote fan behind the radiator (runs on hydraulic motor), power steering, lift cylinders for the front snout and when loading or unloading, a hydraulic motor runs drag chains on front snout and conveyor down centerline of the bed.

To give an idea of it's purpose, couple days back driver and two stackers on the the truck picked up 150 bales from the field in 20 minutes. At barn, front snout raises up as much as 12 feet to become hay elevator. Can unload as fast as stacker guys in the barn can keep up. Or would if the driver (me) didn't screw up and kill it. 

I'll mention one more thing.......when we swapped out distributor cap, checked that against a firing order diagram for 318 Chrysler and concluded the distributor shaft had been put in backwards. But they they put spark plug wires on to match the order and it starts and runs. 

So one thing we have not done is to check the timing. With things reversed, not sure how that would work unless #1 is #1 either way.

Have considered pulling the distributor shaft to set it right, BUT, as mounted not sure if there is enough clearance between motor and deck above it to pull it. Because it is running, decided to go with it as it. Lots of little improvements and fixes needed once hay season is over.

The first thing I check (because it is easy) is voltage drop at the battery while cranking. If the voltage barely drops but the engine barely cranks, then there is poor connectivity (corroded connections, cables too small, whatever).

If the voltage drops WAY down then either the battery has no guts or there is excessive load (dragging starter, tight engine, whatever).

 

Good luck In this situation it may be blind luck that get you there first.

This is the actual contraption in question...........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onIsfsSXRXc" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onIsfsSXRXc

This is a cleaner version.......closer to original. This one a Ford engine. Second half shows front chute/snout with elevator extension for reaching barn lofts, etc. I have the extension, but it's not working.....yet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tah60EnFRWs" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tah60EnFRWs

A couple items high on agenda to fix........one is that alternator. Somebody did some creative redneck engineering.......welded a tightener bracket to the FRAME, so belt tightens and loosens as engine moves. Have the actual Mopar/Dodge alternator brackets for the engine, but need to get a different alternator. This one is a Delco, with internal voltage regulator, but mounting holes don't fit. 

A real Dodge has a voltage regular setup under the dashboard and behind the firewall. The hay monster doesn't have that.

Creative parts solution for some of this comes from Summit Racing......which have several self regulated alternator options for this engine. All high output, but if the lights are on, there is a big voltage drop........which may also be an indication the battery is weak......but existing alternator may only be 30 or 40 amp.

Lars(wi) wrote: Watched your video, what is the advantage of this contraption, instead of pulling a flat rack directly behind the baler?

One advantage is I started baling today at 2 PM. It was 95 and humid. Plus had no help then. Help showed up at 6 PM when it cooled down. We put 200 bales in the barn in 2 hours, start to finish. Could have been faster if we made it in one big load. This shows front end elevated enough to stack bales 8 high, which is all we need. Could go higher.

Before finding this thing, spent some time looking for a New Holland Stackliner.......but even the smallest one needs more height to the trusses than this barn has. The other ways to haul hay all seem to be regional. I doubt there is a baler with bale thrower anywhere in MO. Some guys do stack on wagons behind the baler, but very rare. I've seen accumulators and skid loaders, but never seen one in the field.

Most common method in MO today for small squares? Crew of 4 or 5 picking them up by hand and stacking on a flatbed trailer towed by 1 ton pickup. The Amish can make it look like hay levitates onto that trailer and into the barn.

On a hunch, put a battery charger on the battery today at 1.00. Pulled it about 5.30. It needed some charge. Started and ran, but at start, volt meter dropped way off. So tired battery, bad cables, bad connection, or all the above.

Also, watching volt meter, alternator never kicked in as it has in past. May spend some time looking for reason, but gave up on that one long time ago. Just need to get a new one and start over.

There was quite a bit of redneck engineering that had been added that is being put back to normal / original.

Quick update. Pulled the battery and had it tested and they said still good. Was low on charge, but voltage output tested OK.

Battery cables were #4 and negative was grounded to the engine block. Cables corroded, so have upgraded to new #2 cables. Will install those on the existing battery. If memory serves, 725 cold cranking amps. They sell one with more CCA's that sits in same foot print. As is, the battery box is full. BTW, forgot but there is a 2nd battery box. So may have been setup to run a 2nd battery in parallel for running lights at night.

Existing alternator......one in the video......despite being large in physical size is only putting out 30 amps or so. Since it has been causing trouble anyway, new 90 amp single wire (self regulated) alternator on order. Local NAPA can make me new charging wire.........thinking #6 AWG wire to handle the loads.

Will make those changes, then see what happens.

A local electrical shop rebuilt the starter, and I had no more problems.

Bad starter could be part of problem, but in this case, not from the exhaust. Open air mounting and this one has a pair of cherry bomb glass packs on duel exhaust pipes. Somebody had a sense of humor. 

I added turnouts so the hot exhaust didn't hit rear tires directly.

Quick update. Got the #2 battery cables installed, then put battery charger on and left it overnight. Battery needed it. Got a chance to get it all back to normal and hit starter. Volt meter went from 12 volts to 10 (had been dropping below 6 volts), engine turned over way faster than had been before and once she started, volt meter quickly climbed up to over 14.......so alternator was trying to charge. New alternator has arrived, currently waiting on mounting brackets to install it.

Also, as mentioned before, part of fuel line was lacking insulation, so that has been replaced. For first time I also noticed that the 2 or 3 inch area where the insulation was missing passed within about 2 inches or so of exhaust manifold, which is likely why it was cooked off. New high temp insulation on it now.

Old alternator is unable to keep up with any type of load, so belief is under normal operation was getting a slow battery drain. With any lights on, drain was killing the battery.  Hoping new alternator fixes that. Will see.

As noted, this is a 318 Chrysler engine, but has none of the normal charging system.....external voltage regulator, etc........and somebody in the past rigged up an AC Delco GM style alternator with internal regulator. Rigged is an understatement. They found a way to mount wrong fit alternator to engine......big stack of washers used to get belts to align......then made a tensioning bracket......and welded it to the frame.......so belt tension varies if engine and frame do not move together.

Had this GM alternator tested to see if it was working and it was only putting out something like 30 amps. Have seen the original stickers for some Dodge D600 farm trucks from early 70's era.....same engine....and even those had 43 amp alternators.

If you don't get all the day's hay picked up before dark, and turn on the lights, the drain on battery goes way up.

Doing some research on this, they also say it is very hard on the alternator if battery ever gets really low and engine is then jump started such that alternator then has to charge a nearly dead battery. That has happened with this.

Another reason for getting the bigger 90 amp alternator installed. Hopefully it will keep up with the load and keep battery topped up all the time. Once topped up, extra capacity of bigger alternator won't matter. It only charges as needed. Seems like only way to go.

Quick update......with new replacement alternator, pulled the old one and was ready to install new........instantly ran into trouble. The lower, main support OEM alternator bracket is held in place by either two or three bolts......depending on the age and style of water pump......but that braket and the bracket to tension it is held one by only one bolt. One of 7 that holds the water pump in place. The key one.......the one that has to be used.......was found to have been snapped off inside the water pump housing. That bolt passes thru bracket, bracket, water pump, timing chain cover, then screws into the block.....and the end of it is open to coolant. So to install, a good thread sealant has to be used. No telling now many youtube videos there are documenting removal of that snapped off bolt. Now my turn to figure it out. Has been soaking in penetrating oil for days. Trying hard not to snap it off again as that would require removal of timing chain cover.  Exciting times.

Next question.........I now have 3 or 4 of these long bolts out, and hopefully 4th and final is coming out with no drama. I normally would plan to chase the threads in engine block with an oiled tap before putting bolts back. Problem being my 3/8" tap appears to be damaged (won't go into a matching nut without binding) and not long enough to reach thru the timing chain cover to get to the threads in the block anyway. 

Do they make a longer than standard tap with 4 inch or so shank? If so, what is now a good brand to buy? What I have now are Blue Point, which as I understand it was an economy line of tools sold by Snap On. I may be able to buy Irwin or Hanson locally. Anything else to consider? 

As she sits now.........that big 4 belt pulley is in place of a harmonic balancer. Have no clue how that is being held in place.......and no desire to find out. But if that bolt gets snapped, I get to find out. 

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/extended-taps/long-reach-chip-clearing-taps~~/" rel="nofollow - https://www.mcmaster.com/products/extended-taps/long-reach-chip-clearing-taps~~/

Not much progress on the bolt, except new plan to attack it. Have now added an induction heater to stable to tools. Have had more than one guy who turns wrenches for a living tell me that is what they use to free stuck bolts. For lack of a better way to explain it, seems to work like a microwave oven or some such........a coil is placed over end of the bolt and when you hit the on switch, energy waves are directed towards center of the coil (like a loose coil spring), with bolt positioned in the center. Some show it heating to read hot in a matter of seconds. No open flame as a torch or welder. Anyway, going to heat it up, let it cool and bang on it. Do that a couple times and hopefully bolt gives it up. 

Interesting that I've now watched dozens of youtube videos of guys working on front end of these old 318 motors and that very same bolt is problem for 99% of them. Generally it gets broken (as mine was), then drama follows as guys figure out ways to get it out. 

It may be a major design flaw. In normal use, carbon steel bolt passes thru steel alternator mounting bracket 1, then steel alternator mounting bracket 2, then aluminum water pump housing, then aluminum timing chain cover, then into thread in cast iron block (held in place by some nasty sealant), where tip of bolt is then exposed to some form of coolant cocktail. If for some reason, stray current finds it's way from alternator frame or electrical system you could have no telling what in terms of corrosion from dissimilar metals and all the rest. Bolt just gets chemically welded into place. Don't know if there is a non-metalic bolt tough enough for that duty, but would be worth looking into.

And while we are at it, here is another issue. Has power steering, turns left OK, but does not turn same to the right. Turn radius to the right might be 150 feet or so. At a T intersection, always concerned it will end up in the opposite road ditch or field on other side before it will turn down the road. 

Looking for problems, I now see the steering cylinder has a hard stop on the shaft. Why would that be there? Either mismatched cylinder pulled from another use or maybe if it retracts too far it hits something? Once she is running again, will have to look to see if that is a problem. As is, using less than half the throw of the piston when trying to retract to turn right. 

No progress at all on the broken stud. Have concluded it all needs to come off. Started with PTO shaft this morning and front end popped right off. Rear end......the part in front of pulley.......is stuck tight. If it is same as front, and it looks to be......is keyed onto the shaft and held there by set screw. But is locked tight from fit, corrosion or all the above. Can't pry it off and won't even slide back on further if you whack it with a hammer. 

Last  U-joint like this I wrestled with was off a hay rake and we managed to pull the shaft out of the rake, take it to a bench, heat it with a torch and eventually drive it off with a hammer. Considering all the grease, oil on engine and that rig is parked in a pole barn full of equipment and loose hay, not wanting to get a fire going on front of engine . So torch option last resort. 

If the U-joint could be taken apart, might be able to get wheel puller on it (and on the belt pulley), but see no way to get the cross out of that joint to take it apart. All 4 cap ends for the cross appear solid. Really hoping to not destroy the U-joint. 

Any ideas?  (currently being doused with penetrating oil pending better ideas).

some type of slide hammer attached to the shaft between the two u joints... and then slam with the hammer to shock the shaft out ?

It may be possible to run flat bar stock thru the U-joint yoke, then use a bolt / bar stock / flat washer / nut.......one on each side......to gently push it off. Worth a try. You would be pushing on the yoke's cross, so may damage that to the point it has to be replaced, but so be it. 

What holds pulley on is unknown. Behind the U-joint are for 3/8" bolts going aft towards the engine, so I assume there is a flange of some type behind / under it holding it in place. Like  fan belt pulley? Then expect that to also be held on by the usual big bolt they use to hold the harmonic balancer in place. Remove the bolt, pull the flange and maybe that would do it?  

Had hoped to avoid removing timing chain cover, but may be best after all. From dates, it is mismatched to the block anyway and appears to be showing some corrosion. Also need to get it off to chase threads on the block so that can run bolts back in good condition threads. Also won't hurt to get a peek at unknown condition of timing chain and gear. Clean out all the gang green and build back better? 

Not happy to be doing all that, but willing to if it makes things better. Just pain in the hinny when it wants to fight with you every step of the way. 

agree on the internal clips

plummerscarin wrote: Pretty greasy there but think if you clean it some you would find circlips inside the yoke to be removed then push the caps out.

Cleaned it up and you look to be right. These are what I suspect are the clips or snap rings. 

And this is where the unskilled mechanic hits the wall. If there is an opening on any of these so you can pry them off, I've not found it. Opening may be facing aft out of sight and just can't see them, but also had no luck rotating the clip to get it to show it's pretty face. 

I have worked with the external clips and if this was off the shaft an on a bench, could probably defeat this one too. But until then........

Once these are off, have concluded will be good idea to replace both crosses anyway. Aside from engine propelling machine around the field and up and down the road, all the rest of the functions run off the small hydraulic pump this shaft powers. Machine is helpless without it. And it would only break down with hay in the field. Not a good time to be fixing anything. Cheap insurance while it's apart anyway. 

Another view. Can see the bolt heads holding pulley on. This shaft comes off, may be home free. 

Progress!!!

Went on a blood hunt and managed to find the ends of the clips......as suspected, both facing aft and hidden. But eventually got on the ends and they pooped off. One into the ether.......I heard it ping off metallic stuff 2 or 3 times, but it is gone. 

About an hour later, had the cross out, and as suspected, the yolk was just keyed onto the shaft. Used a wheel puller and it didn't give it up easy. Was close to point breaking....tapped it a few times with hammer......tighten....tap......then came the big bang when it broke free. 

This is where she sits now. Ran out of time and battery powered trouble light went dead at same time. But now off and running.  Once those 4 cap screws are off, will know what's left to get this pulled apart. 

More progress.

After going over the pulley setup numerous times, concluded there HAD to be a seam somewhere, if only I could find it. No way to assemble it otherwise. Turns out the cap screws were only holding a plate on in front......not the entire pulley. Seam was on insider corner. 

As it turns out, didn't need to do anything to pto shaft / yolk / u-joint. Just remove those 4 cap screws. Now I know. Now we all know. Next one will be easy.

Got the big cap screw holding pulley on off and now appears to be same boat as normal case of having to pull the harmonic balancer.......except this pulley setup isn't normal. Have borrowed the loan of a balancer pulling tool, but short bolts normally used doesn't work with this pulley setup. Need to procure some much longer bolts in range of 3/8" x 3 1/2" fine thread......just to be able to reach the holes to pull it off with. Apparently neat trick is to delete the big washer, then put big cap screw back in and use that to push against. Whole unit is supposed to slide past it.  Will see. 

Not sure if time will permit any further progress will be made over the weekend.  

Found this video of a guy facing similar problem. Same bolt. This is what I fear may be causing the stuck bolt problem. Corrosion. 

Fast forward to around 5 min to get started. NO amount of prying was getting his cover free from that bolt.  Seems like a design flaw. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U57uM8X8Ybs" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U57uM8X8Ybs

More progress and hit yet another wall. 

With the right puller, the big pulley walked right off just like  harmonic balancer would. 

As feared, corrosion around that broken bolt may have the cover welded on tight. I thought maybe if i got it freed on one side, I could wedge it off. Is free on top, left side and bottom Entire right side is stuck down tight. Have driven wedges in, banged on cover and bolt.....rise and repeat......and no joy. It has hit the wall. 

Trying to free it around the fuel pump damaged the cover to point of no return. It's toast. Have given thought to drilling a hole in the cover to the bolt.......say 3/16" or so......then filling that with PB Blaster and letting it soak a bit in hopes it might give it up......or just quit the subtle stuff and get out a saw and start hacking it up. 

Had to quit early and unscheduled field trip all day tomorrow. 

As stands now, drilled the hole thru cover above the bolt, and have been irrigating with PB blaster. Sitting under serious tension with driven in wedges above and below. If it doesn't give it up in a day or two, will pull out the Fein multitool and start hacking. Get on the edge of that bolt and ride it to the bottom. 

For what it's worth...

Chrysler, like Ford and GM, had manufacturing lines specific for 'industrial' engines.... so if you assume an engine to be same as automotive/truck, there's a fair chance you'll be wrong.

My Clark IT-60 has a 225 slant six.  While it looks just like what'd be in as Plymouth Volare, Chrysler LeBaron, or Dodge Aspen... or an A or D-series truck or van...

But it's different.  About 80% of the parts are different.  Different crank, different intake, different pan, different water pump...

Widely believed the Deweze version (this one) left factory with engine, tranny, front and rear axles same as Dodge D600. The rest was fabricated and grafted on. Spoke to the young man I bought this from and he replaced the original factory engine with a used 318 engine sourced from a salvage yard.  He had no idea what it came out of. It has an odd casting number.........xxxxxx-318-16. The 16 part is where numbers vary depending on use. Nobody seems to know what a 318-16 was intended for. Aside from cars and trucks, we know they were used in a whole slew of military vehicles, RV's, boats, irrigation pumps, Oliver combines and who knows what else. Some floating around were just spare crate engines, which is what this one may have been. 

The MOPAR guys gas on about cams, headers, carbs, etc., with most of them interested in high RPM horsepower and if it will hold together above 6,000 RPM long enough to smoke the tires off. At other end of the spectrum would have been that Dodge D600 truck. High torque at low RPM's not intended for high road speed. (Not a muscle car). Carb, headers, cam shaft all optimized for that use. That would be ideal for this rig, but not sure how close it matches......if at all.  It does have same NP 540 transmission, but only single speed rear axle.  So the geared way down, high torque setup. 

If i was to go on a hunt to replace engine, I'd be looking for a donor from some form of Dodge D600 truck. Actually have a line on one in form of an old firetruck, which is sitting in a salvage yard. Some of these D600 trucks were retired with less than 30,000 actual miles. 

Cover is off (and it wasn't easy) and broken bolt is finally out. Had to hack up the cover and once inside was very plain to see, corrosion to the bolt was holding it on. No amount of heat or soaking was going to free it up. Had to go postal on it. Once cover was off, the bolt backed out easy with vice grips. 

Once inside, looks to me like timing chain is suspect. Good amount of slack in it. If going to replace, no time like the present. 

Have given thought all manner of fixes.......everything from a hard plastic bolt.....some sort of ceramic coating, etc. Cheap and easy might be to butter it up with Anti-Seize before installing. Once installed, this one bolt would be the only one of several that would ever have to turn. It is one of three that is used to hold alternator bracket on, but this one also does double duty, being lower anchor point for the arm used to adjust fan belt tension on alternator. Anytime the fan is adjusted, or to replace the belt, that bolt has to turn. Somewhere along the line somebody tried and broke it. 

And again, it does extend into the block where end is exposed to coolant. Some design engineer screwed the pooch on this one. 

modirt wrote: ... this one also does double duty, being lower anchor point for the arm used to adjust fan belt tension on alternator. Anytime the fan is adjusted, or to replace the belt, that bolt has to turn...

Is it practical to install a custom stud rather than a bolt to allow future maintenance?

Found a solution for the PTO U joints. There is a welding / fabrication shop about 20 miles from here in middle of nowhere. Bearings, U joints, hydraulics and related. If they don't have it, you don't need it. Total cost........$30 installed. 

Together again........

Now sporing a new 90 amp one wire Powermaster Alternator from Summit Racing. Looks to be charging!

Once that bolt came out, it was clear sailing. Having said that, this turned into bigger project than I expected. In no particular order.......

1. Upgraded battery cables to #4....upgrade charging wire to #6.....hot and ground. 

2. Installed new alternator, which required specific alternator brackets to match old cast iron water pump. Those took some looking to find. Also....now running on two new fan belts.

3. New double roller timing chain and timing chain cover. Found and installed an oil slinger on crankshaft behind the big pulley. It was missing the slinger when I pulled it apart. 

4. Pulled oil pan to clean out the sludge. So all new gaskets, front and back. 

5. Installed new dip stick tupe into the block (that wasn't easy). As near as I can tell, it's half inch or so longer than the old, and came with the extra long dip stick needed for this jumbo sized oil pan. So using the shorter dip stick tube that was on the engine, I may have been running half a quart to quart low all along. That's not good. 

5. Pulled and rotated distributor to get it in synch with timing marks.....then swapped out all the plug wires to match correct firing order. (Distributor had been installed backwards, so instead of fixing it, they swapped plug wires to match).

6. Found a harmonic balancer to get crankshaft to Top Dead Center for #1 cylinder, then installed the big 4 pulley replacement, and put timing marks on it (there were none).  All that thru the timing off, but she did start....but ran ruff. Trial and error got her running great........needs to be fine tuned with timing light or vacuum gauge. 

7. New crosses for U-joint that runs hydraulics. 

8. Swapped engine temp sensor from water pump to correct position on top of engine block, so reads correctly. 

9. Hard to tell from photos, but also painted all those parts. Paint job marred by all the sealant and anti-seize smeared all over everything. 

10. Removed old insulation around fuel line from pump to carb. Replaced it with an aluminum / glass heat shield fabric tube. Old insulation was burnt off where it ran too close to the exhaust manifolds, so bent it a bit to give it some space. That may have been hot enough to have caused it to vapor lock and not start when hot. 

The water pump and timing gear bolts all new Grade 8. If they ended in the engine block in coolant, they got thread sealer, plus anti-seize on the shaft of the bolt. Bolts in oil were short, they got thread sealant. Bolts in dead ends in the block all got anti-seize. next guy won't have as much trouble pulling it apart as I did. 

Anyway, as noted, cranked it a bit and she started........then once I got the timing right, she ran good. I'd say she purred, but with a pair of cherry bomb glass packs for mufflers, that is more of a deep throated rumble. 

Long hard road and painful lessons learned, but learned a lot and added to my tool stash.........by a lot. Hope the juice I get was worth the squeeze!

Bolt circled in green was the culprit that started all the trouble. It runs thru tensioning bracket, mounting bracket, cast iron water pump, aluminum timing cover, then into threads in cast block, but also terminates with end exposed to engine coolant. 

Bolt circled in red ends in a blind pocket in the engine block. It is the main support for the alternator. When tightening belts, tendency may be to loosen the problem child bolt too, but if you do, that would break the seal on the thread sealant......maybe now a leak.  One just has to remember to never, ever touch that bolt. The bolt in red and tightning screw on the alternator......and nothing else. 

X2 on the high riding belt. Looks like a B belt in an A pulley...

The belt is riding high on the 3/8" pulleys on the alternator. The other two.....water pump and lower crank pulley's are 1/2". The ride flush on those two. So not matched. Lessor of two evils seemed to be to let belts ride high on alternator. The older AC Delco was done the same way and belts didn't cause the problems. At worst, belts may wear faster. 

Option B would be to try to replace pulleys on alternator. Instructions that came with it had some dire warnings about that. So for now, have left it as is. 

As near as I can tell, someone put a sleeve on the steer cylinder shaft as a hard stop to prevent it from going any further. I cannot understand why.......unless cylinder is also mismatched and seal in the middle is not centered. Have hit a few new snags, but once all that is sorted, plan is to run it about 15 miles to same welding / fabrication shop that had the PTO crosses and they are going to do some welding on it for me. They also work on hydraulics, so will pull cylinder off to have a look. 

On the old alternator had a guy look at it and not only was all else wrong, but they wired it wrong. They got a lot wrong with that one. That and several other fixes.....non fixes......and patch it up to keep going. I have left all the baling wire they had hanging on it. Not sure if that was from some busted bales, or busted bales for the baling wire to make fixes with. To date, have found no chewing gum.

http://www.brillman.com" rel="nofollow - www.brillman.com

That is a really good resource I wasn't aware of. This one might work........

https://brillman.com/product/alternatorgenerator-2-groove-pulley-12-belt-width-x-2-1316-od-x-17mm/" rel="nofollow - https://brillman.com/product/alternatorgenerator-2-groove-pulley-12-belt-width-x-2-1316-od-x-17mm/

That assumes 17mm is same as 0.625 diameter shaft on alternator. The math isn't exact, but close. Frustrating that they have to mix apples and oranges (SAE and metric) to to make it more confusing.

Past that........the plot thickens........meaning my education on all this continues. This from Powermaster (whose material is both excellent and abysmal).........

https://www.powermastermotorsports.com/power_pulleys_a.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.powermastermotorsports.com/power_pulleys_a.html

Edit: Measured and it's 6.25" / 2.65 = 2.358  (better than I feared, but still not good)

I'll have to measure, but my guess is OD of big pulley is no more than 5 inches.....turning a pulley of about 2 3/4"......so ratio is not much more than 2:1. At engine RPM of 1,000 fast idle speed, even this high amp alternator is not putting out much juice. Even in use in the field, engine rarely exceeds 2,000 RPM's.  Documentation that came with alternator shows it tested to 65 amps at idle speed, but that was with 3:1 ratio. At my idle speed, may not be doing much at all. 

So a lot of this then goes to operation. If working at night and are moving from field to barn.......and back........best let the engine rev......(do not shift up)......to get RPM's to 2,500 or more for as long as you can. Alternator really isn't doing much unless you do. 

All part of the puzzle. 

Just got off phone with Powermaster tech support. Long story short, belts as now configured are good to go.

As per those guys, they don't have a 1/2" groove pulley for this alternator. Running high on those grooves at low speed not going to hurt anything. Pulley has OD of 2.65", so is faster than what I can replace it with, which BTW, the pulley is held on by some strange screw setup......maybe along the lines of a tamper proof setup. Not the nut and torque wrench change over some show to use. Best leave it alone. 

Alternator kicks in at around 1,800 RPM alternator shaft speed, and comes up to rated speed at around 2,400 RPM, which at my fast idle speed ** will be around 2,400 RPM. Most transit and field work way above that, so should be OK. 

** - Fast idle needed when unloading at the barn. Needed to turn the hydraulic pump to get drag chains moving, and is also needed to keep the radiator fan (runs on hydraulic motor) spinning fast to keep cooling system working. Those all speed up and slow down with engine speed. 1,000 RPM is about right. 

Do you have a mechanical tachometer that you can actually measure the alternator RPM ?

Good call.....it may be sitting 1/8" or so proud, so maybe 2 3/4" plus effective diameter of pulley.  The one from Brillman better than that, and 1/2" to boot.  If I can figure out what "special tools" are needed to make the swap. 

No.....do not have a shaft RPM. Just tach on the engine. 

But do have an electric meter, so may be able to measure voltages and amps when running to see what I got. 

And make things simple?? I have done repair work on late 1970s to late 1980s vehicles that are mish-mash of metric and SAE bolts/nuts. There was one manufacture (Chevy?) that 2 out of the 3 starter bolts were metric and the other SAE. Then the Ford 5.4 oil filter, supposedly the engines built in Windsor Canada has SAE threads on the filter and the engine built in Romeo MI (USA) has metric threads.

Sound like you are making much progress on this project, might as well go all the way and restore it to its original, as sold when new, glory.

It will be just fine. Install a voltmeter if you are concerned (a voltmeter tells you far more than does an ammeter).

When this thing showed up on my doorstep, don't think any gauges were working (along with a lot of other stuff). One of first things I did to start rehab was to install full set of new gauges. Could not stand operating blind. Might work OK for a lawnmower, but not a big piece of equipment like this. Hardest part was to find a tachometer.....with hour meter. Those are not cheap!! All gauges are Auto Meter.......which offers good quality gauges for automotive and marine use. 

Watching the volt meter work was how I concluded changes had to be made. 

Was this photo taken while running the new alternator? I like to check the voltage with my Fluke 88 meter to verify the calibration of the dash gauge; a full 14 Volts makes me happy