Farm Equipment - WD 45 hydraulic linkage

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WD 45 hydraulic linkage

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206996
Printed Date: 07 Jun 2025 at 4:13am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: WD 45 hydraulic linkage

Posted By: 500592
Subject: WD 45 hydraulic linkage
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 8:35pm

Recently picked up a wd45 with a trip bucket loader that is run off the rear remote. Everything was fine and dandy till decided to adjust the linkage so that it was in the hold position. I tried following the manual and here’s where I ran into some trouble. The detent worked but was almost to the top of quadrant when it would snap in. Lowering was no problem but it made the lift very slow. I figured I could live with that for now but went to hook up my snap coupler plow and put it in traction booster mode and discovered that I couldn’t separate the plates with the “B” screw the linkage didn’t have enough throw to make the plates line up with the dimple. Has anyone run into this before?

Being a bit impatient I tried bending the road to give it more length thinking it that would help and broke the lever that connects it to the short rod so now I have to take that apart and weld it or try to replace the section of the pump with one from my parts tractor….. think that’s doable in frame?

Thanks

Replies:

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 8:50pm

When the hand lever is completely DOWN on the quadrant, the point on screw "B" must align with that hole so you can separate the plates. If you are using the hydraulic linkage adjustment instructions from the owners manual, they are WRONG !!! Step #4 should read: "Set the hand lever at the BOTTOM of the quadrant." Their inaccurate instructions says "the top of the quadrant" which throws everything else waaaay off !! On step #1 "turn screw "A" into the pump body" is misleading. The tip of the screw"A" has to fit into the divot in the side of the pump housing, so this must be corrected also. Your goal is to wind up with the HOLD position "detent" being located approximately in the center of the quadrant. Welding that lever back on will be a challenge. Remove the side frames. Clean off all the oil dirt and grease. When you get done it will probably leak oil because there is a rubber seal behind that lever.

Posted By: 500592
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 9:08pm

Thanks dr.Allis!! I thought I had read where you corrected the manual in a previous post but couldn’t find it so I assumed it was something else. I ordered a new gasket for that valve body do you think it’s possibly to remove just that portion of it and swap it with a good one or break it down and weld it? Trying to avoid taking the frame rail off since that would involve removing the loader as well and I’m trying to get it ready to work the garden a bit and do some haying. Thanks again

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 9:33pm

You have to remove the whole pump from the tractor to separate that section from the main body.

Posted By: 500592
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 9:43pm

Thanks for the heads up. I had a feeling the whole pump would have to come off so I ordered both gaskets and will most likely try taking it apart and welding the lever back together since everything else seemed to work okay the other pump I have is of unknown condition. Is the oil seal on that a simple oring or something g I should order from an Allis supplier? Would like to have all the seals ready to go so it’s not off the tractor longer than it needs to be.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 10:30pm

Screw "A" shaft and the one that needs welding have a regular lip type oil seal.

Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 10:44pm

You van temove yhe pump withput ysking the grame rail off. I pulled mine withe the loader still on. Its a little tight pittong back on nut if you stick a nail on each pump actiator arm put it on then pull the nails befor you nolt nack on it dosent go to bad

Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 10:49pm

Wow my spelling is bad when typing on phone.it helps if you put your loader ip on a 55 gal drum let it down and unpin the right ram and drop it down out of the way

Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 11:42pm

Back in the early 1990's or late 80's, that lever broke off on the WD45 and needed it back in the field. Cleaned it up of grease and dirt, blew it off with air and got couple bottles of water around, fitted the lever up and tacked the lever good, and poured water on the back side of lever and then on the front side and back to the back side, cooling it down. Then welded again and did the same treatment to cool it down. If I remember right, it was welded from the underside of frame.

Good luck.

-------------
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."

Posted By: 500592
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 4:03am

Would anyone happen to have a part number for the lip oil seals? Would like to pick up at the local Napa and save on shipping if possible since I already placed my order….

Thanks again for all the help!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 6:23am

AGCO p/n 70224558 or A-C 224558.

Posted By: 500592
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 6:55am

Thank you very much! Should I be prepared to freshen up anything else while it’s apart? Pump seemed strong and didn’t have much trouble lifting the rear tires off the ground with the loader granted I don’t have loaded tires but with no power steering I don’t want to lift much anyways!!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 7:51am

It's your call. Whenever I do one, I go completely thru it, even if it just a leaker. I'm doing it for hire, so I can't have things go wrong after the fact. New Orings, springs, balls, copper washers and gaskets as a minimum. Checking max pressure before pump removal indicates if something needs to be done with the unloader valve. Always throughly wash out the sump as it will be terribly dirty.

Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 9:13am

Are you able to put a gage and the remote and do a pressure check before you remove the pump? THat will tell you if you have other major issues ot address. Ofter new springs are needed for the check valves.

Posted By: 500592
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2025 at 6:42pm

I don’t have a gauge but could probably get one and hook it up. Might as well do it right the first time. While I have it apart I can replace the brake shaft and put new bushings in the pedals, hand clutch, foot clutch, and fix the leaky hand clutch seal. Other than that area the tractor is really in pretty darn good shape and doesn’t leak much. I do think the left axel is starting to drip though but not too bad yet. Saving up for new tires and will be a good excuse to refresh those items at that time.