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I rebuild for function, not authentic factory features which you and other comments may chase, this is the setup I prefer:

12v neg ground

LED lights or bulbs

Good quality ignition key switch for boating wet conditions

Electronic ignition won't survive an EMP event...

Verify your coil is 12v internal resistor type

Alternator with internal regulator, either the big Delco/GM or the Denso small one used by the hot rod builders as it tucks away easier.

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The cheaper way to go is usually with an Alternator. Some people don't like the look of an Alternator on the older Tractors. Some what the reliability not the originality. Your call there. If you go with an Alternator, its better to wire it three wire not one wire especially on the older Tractors. Loose the Ammeter and install a Voltmeter for safety and accurate charging rates.

Steve@B&B

My 'vote' is for 12v alternator. I use the CS130 series...small in size, 40 amps, free. Wire into 'idiot light'. If someone whines about 'ewww an alternator' tell them,'fine YOU pay for a generator.

Either way, as 12v , use negative ground. saves a lot of spark when you jump start that guy's truck who said 'ewww, an alternator' !!!

Electronic ignitions are NOT bullet proof. Hooked up wrong and zappp.... $150 piece of artwork, and no running tractor....

In the end ,it's your tractor, your choice.

if the system is NEGATIVE GROUND then the neg side of the coil goes to the distributor point... If it is POSITIVE ground, then the POS side of the coil goes to the distributor point.

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Use an ohm meter on the coil to verify it has the internal resistor. 3ohms = resistor, 1.5ohm = coil for external resistor.

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Many of us have found the distributor tune up kits have bad condenser/capacitors and retrofit the old one that was in the tractor. So don't throw out all the old parts when fixing it up.

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An alternator charges at a lot higher rate than the old generator. Every bit of current (amps) travels through the ammeter. The ammeter isn't built to handle the higher current flow from an alternator.

After changing a tractor, I sometimes wonder why they weren't equipped with a voltmeter from the factory.

re: I sometimes wonder why they weren't equipped with a voltmeter from the factory.

Simple, a voltmeter does NOT show CHARGE or DIScharge. A voltmeter can show '14 volts - solid green' and yet when you turn the key ...click, grr, nada. The battery HAS a 'surface charge but no quantity of electrons in it.

 A ammeter shows ACTUAL current flow( in or out ) which is far more important than 'volts'.

Voltmeters on vehicles are a cheap, universal 'fit', but do not tell the important part of the electrical system. properly maintained they'll last decades. Ammeter on my 1st D-14 is still operational(3 decades) even with 100A CS130 alternator. Since tractor starts great, not many electrons have to go back into the battery, so 'high' amps charge rate is only a few seconds. Yes, needle pegs, but it's old skool, built for rough service.

BTW not all alternators charge higher than generators. 1st CS130s I had were 40 amp units from 90' cavaliers,think the D-14 genny is 35 amps ?

Look at the amp gauge on a TRACTOR without all the elect... You can have a 30 amp generator or a 100 amp alternator and you very seldom see it running above 20 amps... Normally it will be around 5 amps.