H3 final drive
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=196415
Printed Date: 31 Oct 2025 at 3:30am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: H3 final drive
Posted By: PaDon
Subject: H3 final drive
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2023 at 10:21pm
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I have a '61 H3 I'm trying to get running and it has a slight wobble on the right sprocket I need to fix after I get the engine running. I'd like to learn to take this apart so is this the same as on a D15, since the H3 is based on the D15 platform? Thanks for any help and suggestions. |
Replies:
Posted By: im4racin
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2023 at 7:00am
| Similar but the difficult part is the steering clutch needs to come out 1st. |
Posted By: PaDon
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2023 at 7:47am
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There's a Youtube video that shows a guy taking the brake and steering clutch out of an HD6, are these similar enough to be able to use that video as a guide? |
Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2023 at 1:22pm
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Steering clutch layout and set up is very different between HD-3, or HD-4 and HD-6. HD-3, and HD-4, are almost like a clutch in your pickup truck with a mechanical pressure plate on each side final. Simple and small, but don't reference HD-5, or HD-6 for the task as these are industrial tractors where the HD-3, and HD-4 were as you mention built on the farm tractor side.
------------- That's All Folks! |
Posted By: orangeman
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2023 at 3:50pm
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PaDon - it might be beneficial to purchase a service manual to review the criteria and tools necessary to remove the final drive. You will need to roll the sprocket clockwise in order to get to the bolts on the steering clutch. ~ Orangeman
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Posted By: PaDon
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2023 at 10:11pm
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You're right, Orangeman, I do. I also have a Massey 250 tractor and bought a shop manual for it but it's like the Chilton and Haynes manuals; they tell you how to do it when everything goes right but not when something hangs up. That's what I like about youtube videos, lots of times there are a number of videos and one or the other will run into the same problem I run into. |
Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2023 at 2:57pm
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PaDon nothing like a REAL service manual from the manufactor of the machine. Chilton manuals are generally worthless and Haynes are worse. Looking for specs on pickup in a Haynes it had the line that say WORTHLESS if you had not already figured that out "if you need this information you should take it to a professional". Lucky for me I had not had to buy the manual it came with the truck from my in-laws. With the internet and E Bay find a old original manual from the company that made the piece of equipment your working on. The reprint manuals are very hit or miss. Some the coping is so poor they are unreadable, other are not to bad. Yes you tube is all right, but still made by people that don't know all they should. As the one I watched "I am replacing this water pump because it is leaking. Has leaked ever since I put it on 6 months ago, I must of done it wrong". At least he was honest.
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Posted By: PaDon
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2023 at 8:49am
 I hear ya loud and clear. I'll dig around and look for a service and parts manual.
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2023 at 2:23pm
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Sprocket has nothing to do with the clutches or anything in that area . More than likely it's inboard or outboard bearing on the axle shaft - which carry the load of the tractor . Check case area as you will probably find the wobble is from that area , and if severs the case is probably worn internally where the bearing cup resides in casting . Might slacken track and see if you can move sprocket fwd or back with a bar , if movement , look at removing case and having it machined for new bearing race . Had to do that for both sides of HD4 and also on my FD5 - no outboard support on sprocket like on older machines like HD5 or HD6 or other construction machines , industrial machines were made lighter and the smaller bearings in case were not up to stress placed on the drive systems ------------- Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel. |
Posted By: PaDon
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2023 at 6:01pm
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That makes sense, Coke. Someone mentioned that possibility on a different thread and said it would be really expensive to get it machined so I'll get the engine going and then work on that. I'm in NW Arkansas, there are several good machine shops in this area so it should be do-able. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 1:04pm
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I had a machine shop at a transmission rebuilder do my cases , cost around $500 to have case machined and a insert welded into case and new bearings . If the case is worn to that point it's the cheapest way I found as finding a replacement case is expensive also . ------------- Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel. |
Posted By: PaDon
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2023 at 6:56pm
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That's good news, Coke. I didn't know what the ballpark figure for work like that would be. Thanks. |