On second thought. . . A Brown and Sharpe taper is a locking taper.  Hence the wedge to help knock it out.  As long as you get it pressed in snug, it should hold just fine, and drive an endmill ok.  The old (1940-1950) horizontal mills we used to have had a 50 Mill Taper, which does not lock.  Our overarm supports were bushing style, not axial support.  

I was looking at B&S taper end mill holders, they have draw bar threads. As do morse taper end mill holders. Find out what you have, maybe look over the website vintagemachinery.org. Post a picture.

I wouldn't use an end mill without a draw bar (well, a 1/4" diameter ok).

The helix wants to pull out the cutter, the taper also.

I have a 1912 tool catalog I remember a lot of straight flute cutters. So maybe they did try to mill with out a draw bar. No OSHA, no problem?

I've never seen a spindle without it being hollow on a mill. You want the option of at least one setscrew per tapered holder and two don't hurt. Try to find a used machinery dealer nearby that will sell by the pound.            

This isn't true.  If the spindle is blind, there will be a window in the side into which a release wedge can be driven.

Collets are pretty much standard-fare, and one does NOT need set-screws to keep an end mill securely in the collet, it's surface gripping force is several orders-of-magnitude greater than a half-dozen setscrews could ever impose, AND it provides a stable support axis which setscrews can not.

The B&S #9 was a common taper used for many of the small B&S mills, as well as many Moore spindles, and one of the most common on Bridgeport type 'M' vertical heads.

Yes, the #2 Morse WITH DRAWBAR was a more popular fixture for the M-vertical, particularly in metalworking shops, but the J-head's R8 tooling superceded the M anyway.

The B&S Horizontal, when fitted for pocket milling, used just the taper to hold the milling cutter in place.  IF you load the cutter too heavily, it will break off before disengaging from the taper.  IF the taper releases, it is because the spindle ID taper has been damaged, or the mill collet's taper has been damaged, or both.

Drawbars are more common on post 1920's machines, where pocket milling into iron and steel was much more common.  Prior to 1920, use of a SMALL horizontal mill for pocket milling was most often for cabinetmaking, patternmaking out of wood, or light machining of soft (copper and brass) mechanisms like door latches.

If one needed a more substantial pocket into irons or steels, one used a Horizontal Boring Mill, as it had a much more substantial chassis and drivetrain.

That is from 1895ish through 1920 or so.  They were typically driven from overhead lineshaft.  The table feed was driven by belt from spindle down tot he cone sheave on back.

BTW, that looks like a B&S #0 Plain, if so, it will probalby have a B&S 9 taper with a 17/32" through hole. 

The overarm retains the arbor.  Inserting the factory 'knock out' rod through from the back should release the taper, but don't be surprised if it isn't ready- the precision on that taper is incredible, and a few years will make them really wanna stay.

To get the drawbar taper released on my Milwaukee #2 horizontal, I had to insert the knockout rod, and whack it.

Here's a ref on PM for it:

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/brown-and-sharpe-no-0-plain-horizontal-mill.357255/" rel="nofollow - https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/brown-and-sharpe-no-0-plain-horizontal-mill.357255/

The trick to releasing, is not to use a big hammer, use the smallest, and swing it as FAST as you can- it is shock that releases, not thrust.

Okay, so the spindle belt is NOT by centrifugal force- that's a common misnomer.  Your mill was originally intended for overhead lineshaft drive, and belt tension to the overhead drive was accomplished through a weighted deflection roller which served as triple-purpose- it performed as belt tensioner, clutch, and shifting mechanism, as it slid on a parallelogram directly beneath the countershaft which had a cone-sheave matching (in reverse) your mill's cone.  The electric drive was installed much later.

To tension the belt without a deflection roller, you'll need to shorten the belt (lacing tool), then spray it down with water to 'shrink' it... and once shrunken, you'll likely need some sort of saddle soap to keep it protected from drying out.

As I noted above, the horizontal mill, at the time this one was built, was not used in the same sort of context as what one would be used for in the 'steel' era, and the 'vertical mill' that we use today, simply did not exist, as there was no technology or materials to produce tooling to do what one can do with say... the BRJ in my garage.

That being said, your #1 horizontal... if you need an arbor, it would be made same now, as it was when this machine first came out-  using the compound in lathe, or cross-set the tailstock and turn one between centers... then abrade it to precision fit with garnet, grease, and prove it in the spindle with dye.

Could one use it in a common shop context?  Certainly.  If you make a simple indexing fixture, you can easily cut gear blanks with homemade involute gearcutter, or acquire some factory-made involute cutters and do same in soft metals and even mild steels... so don't discount it's ability to make some very useful stuff... but it was intended to be operated with the overarm as support for the arbor... 'pocket milling' in this era was the function of a horizontal boring mill.

All that said, if the bed moves well in all axis, you could do some pretty fantastic surface precision as a surfacing grinder... a grinding wheel and LOTS of patience.  That spindle won't like going really fast, so lots of patience.

Steve... Izzat a K&T #2??

Thad- Steve's mill is using either a NMTB 30 or 40 taper, and his mill spindle IS hollow for a drawbar.  Both my Cinci #2 and my EARLY K&T use a 40 taper, both have drawbar.  My Maho MH600E uses the CAT40, which is an NMTB 40-taper with a knob-type fixture on the end, and the MH has a hydraulic drawbar with 'fingers' that grab that ball, rather than threading the drawbar into the taper.

Important to note, there are many types of tapers, but TWO TYPES of taper designs.... there are SELF-HOLDING tapers, and SELF-RELEASING tapers.  The taper design of a self-holding is such that, once put in, it will not WANT to release, instead, it will grip tighter.  Morse, Jacobs, and B&S tapers are self-holding.  The primary characteristic is the taper angle... it's about a 3.5-in-12 taper that will release, anything shallower will tighten.  Morse tapers, for example, are about 1 in 20.

Self-releasing tapers, like the NMTB (the '30' or '40', etc) are much greater angle... a taper of more like 7 in 24... to make them drive, a tang IS required on the flange.

 If I remember right it's a Seneca Lathe.

 Works nice for me.

Senecas were very stout, popular for lots of light industrial production.  I hosted a 16"x72" rescue Seneca, that like yours had a vertical post-type electric conversion.  Many of the Senecas came from factory AS electric drive, and many of the drives had either "Ohio Drive" or "Lima Drive" brands cast into either the input sheave, or into the transmission casting, the earlier 'Ohio' labeled units not only being a truck transmission, they were often actually 4-speed... with the reverse shaft gone, and a 4th gear where the REVERSE gate USED to be.  I have a rescued preWW1 lathe about 18" swing in the barn that has a similar drive, too, as well as a Ryerson around 16" from the mid '20's that has the "Lima" casting drive (unfortunately a ham-fisted guy attempted to move it, and dropped it over, fracturing the drive support.

Steve's Ryerson has the same general look as my 26" swing  260" bed Lodge and Shipley... it came out of a shipyard in Mobile, Alabama, where it was probably for 'small parts'...  Machines like this prefer to be put in one spot, and used there  (i.e.  'not moved around much').  It, and the Cinci #5 vertical, are anxiously awaiting foundations in new building upon which to call 'next working home'.

I've got no clue who manufactured mine, IIRC it has SOME casting mark on it somewhere, but it wasn't a good 'clue' as to it's origin.

Leather belting and lacing are still around, baler lacing will work, and I see it on the shelf at Farm and Fleet (the implement parts area).  I know guys that use flat serpentine belts in endless, by unbolting and lifting the spindle through...

The other (most clever) drive I've seen, was by a very clever Canuck...  he put a 6" tire on a shaft extended off the end of a 5hp gas engine, and used friction drive... on a fairly large lathe, but it did work.

If you're gonna go hard-core flat-belt, call me when you got everything set in place and belted, and I'll load this steam engine on your trailer... ;-) it'll power (and heat) your shop, as long as you can find enough solid fuel to feed it!

Depressing, I decided to to call an "old timer" guy I knew, into old machines.

I figured he would have hands on experience with B&S horizontals.

His daughter answered his phone. He just passed away 6 days ago.

I did look through a manual for the 000 model horizontal, they show

setups with end mills in the #9 taper holders. No draw bar. Steel parts,

looked like lights cuts.

Dave Kamp, very high batting average!