Allis 185 engine swap ??????
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=192220
Printed Date: 24 Jun 2025 at 3:41pm
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Topic: Allis 185 engine swap ??????
Posted By: allis1221G
Subject: Allis 185 engine swap ??????
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 8:39am
| Picked up a nice 185 with bad crank. Found a really low hr 301 out of a combine. Swapping things over a found the combine engine has a shallow oil pan vrs a deep pan on original engine.Wondering what the reason for this was and if ill be find just droping new engine in without swapping pans. Tia |
Replies:
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 10:34am
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Deeper pan, more oil, reason for deeper pan was the crankshaft driven oil pumps needed the extra space. Going to have to change front plate for sure for hydraulic pump. ------------- He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
Posted By: allis1221G
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 1:51pm
| Yes im in the works of changing front plate now along with a number of other small changes but was curious about the gear driven pump. Would prefer not to change all that if isnt required. Thanks |
Posted By: allis1221G
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 1:52pm
| Did the crank driven oil pump have higher oil pressure or no? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 5:35pm
| You cannot use an engine with the crankshaft driven oil pump/deep pan on a tractor that doesn't already have the same thing. There is interference with the front axle. Your shallow pan and oil pump will fit on the newer engine. Not really more oil pressure (spec is 35 to 55 psi hot wide open throttle) but more volume 16 GPM versus 12ish GPM) for extra oil filters, piston cooling and turbochargers. If you are using a turbo'd engine for the swap, you must remove the spring and slug in the rear crossover oil galley if you are removing the oil cooler on the right side of the engine. If you remove the oil cooler and fail to remove the sporing and blocking slug in that crossover passageway, you will have the main and rod bearings destroyed in a few minutes of run time from NO OIL PRESSURE to them!! |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 7:30pm
| i wish more of this was in the knowlage section because thats somthing most poeple would not know or miss in the book when doing these kind of projects |
Posted By: allis1221G
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 9:55pm
| My tractor originally had a deep pan and crank driven oil pump. Your saying i will not be able to use a engine with a shallow pan then? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 9:56pm
| Knowledge section updated. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 7:42am
I think he is saying the earlier tractors with the cam driven oil pump used the slightly shallower pan, that is what he is comparing. Depth he is referring to is at the front where oil pump sits. Your combine engine has a different shallow pan but crank driven pump right? The combines have a shallow but full length pan, instead of the tractor having a deeper sump area. You could leave the combine pan and pickup on it if you'll be on flat ground. It will be noticeable to a astute AC guy though lol! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
allis1221G wrote:Posted By: ACjack
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 9:28am
|
I'd like to add a bit more info to the discussion from my experience working at the Harvey engine plant. 1) Concerning oil pressure. For an engine to pass test it had to have a minimum of 10 psi oil pressure at idle @ full engine temperature. 2) Pay attention to the baffling on the inside of the oil pan. There was several different oil pans that looked alike on the outside but used different baffing on the inside that where used on the 2800/2900 series engines. What determined which pan was used had to do with the application that the engine was going to be used in.
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Posted By: allis1221G
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 11:48am
| My combine engine im using does not have the gear driven pump. But the engine that was in tractor does. |
Posted By: allis1221G
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 11:51am
| The combine engine i wanna use does not have the gear driven pump. But the engine that was original in the tractor does. The crank gear in the combine engine is different so putting the gear driven pump in is not an option |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 12:01pm
| Meaning, your combine engine is OLDER than your tractor engine. Once the crankshaft driven pump was released, ALL those 2000 series engines eventually got the wider crank gear, even tho some still used the camshaft driven style pump. Old blocks don't even have a place for the front pump to attach to. |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 12:14pm
|
There's a lot of useful information to soak up, that I'll never remember if ever comes a time that I'll need it. Darrel |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 12:42pm
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So in this case he will need to just keep the combine pan on it? Tractor pan will require a different matching pickup. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: ILGLEANER
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 7:15pm
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Just use the combine motor as a short block. Use everything else off of your 185 motor. And you will have it right 🤷🏼♂️ ------------- Education doesn't make you smart, it makes you educated. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 10 Dec 2022 at 10:04pm
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2900 engines with the oil cooler have a thigher placement of the engine fan - have to mover the shroud - it will work. Also just cut the front pivot and move it and the rear axle pivot up the distance of the hole location in the rear support -weld a plate to the rear pivot and drill extra holes. Takes about 4 hours of cutting and welding to lower the axle. - done about 8 of these swaps now. ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: KJCHRIS
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 12:04am
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Allis1221G, is the block or rod damaged or just the crank ?? IF only the crank and 1 rod I'd start looking for a replacement crank shaft / rod and rebuild the original engine. Early (camshaft driven oil pump) crank has a 3.5" nose the later (crankshaft mount oil pump) has a 4" nose. ------------- AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B, |