6080 fuel injector "seeping" leak
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=186836
Printed Date: 18 Sep 2025 at 7:50am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 6080 fuel injector "seeping" leak
Posted By: ssefick
Subject: 6080 fuel injector "seeping" leak
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 5:07pm
Hi everyone:
On this forum I found that a seeping fuel leak at the injectors is likely either the head gasket or the return lines. It is NOT an actual injector leak.
Is this what everyone thinks? Looks like fuel is seeping frome the bottom of the injectors when the engine is warmed up. Does not seem when not warm.
I will check the banjo bolts tomorrow after studying the manual tonight
Thanks to everyone, and please let me know if I can help by taking pictures etc.
|
Replies:
Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 5:13pm
|
Also check valve cover gasket it runs into the injector runs out when it gets hot
|
Posted By: allisorange
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 5:50pm
|
Do what Alvin says. Check gasket.
J Carlson
|
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 6:02pm
poor quality rebuilt injectors can leak at the mated surfaces inside, and therefor cause it to leak externally.
-------------
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 8:58pm
|
Definitely not head gasket, but valve cover is quite likely
-------------
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 9:20pm
I agree on the valve cover gasket. I went thru this same thing and this forum educated me.
-------------
'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
|
Posted By: ssefick
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2022 at 9:02pm
Thanks everyone. I am learning as I go. I got confused about the valve cover and the head gasket.
I snugged up the drip line bolts and valve cover. Drove the tractor around the field. Everything looked fine, parked, throttled down, and hopped on off to find leaking occuring.
I'll call the parts man tomorrow morning to get a gasket.
I need to glue this gasket with some sort of gasket glue, correct? I'll ask the parts man, but do y'all have any suggestions?
I would like to replace the Phillips head screws with hex head bolts. Is this possible? Any suggestions.
All of you are very helpful. I really appreciate it!
|
Posted By: 160 allis
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 5:29pm
|
I don't use any glue or sealant on my valve cover gaskets. I've done 4 185 tractors in the last few months and no leaks yet. I hate when I see them with gobs of silicone pushing out everywhere. Others may do it differently but that's just the way i do mine. Also, get a agco gasket if possible, i got one from djs and had to trim the edges where the bolts go through in order for it to fit inside the valve cover. Never had to with the agco and they are cheap.
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 5:49pm
|
If you don't clean the valve cover gasket surface well, and glue the gasket to it (3M yellow 8001 weather strip glue) you will get to do it again. Once the gasket glue has set up and dry, rub a thin coating of oil resist RTV on the gasket where it will contact the head. Clean the head with brake kleen before assembly. I've been doing it this way for 45 years and maybe after 10 years of use they start to seep and it's time to run the valves anyway.
|
Posted By: ssefick
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 8:26pm
Thanks guys. I will not use rtv. I'll clean well. I would like to replace Phillips head with hex bolts.
Like I said, I am learning as I go. Anything special I should look for, or should I just go to the hardware store and get a hardened steel bolt that fits?
|
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2022 at 7:09am
If you replace the screws, go to allen bolts, hex bolts don't fit well which is why they use phillips head screws, or later AC used small head hex bolts with the spring packs to maintain tension.
-------------
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2022 at 1:24pm
All the spring pack kits ive had used shoulder bolts so you could only put so much tension on the belvile springs
-------------
1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
|
Posted By: ssefick
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2022 at 9:23pm
While I have the valve cover off I should probably adjust the valves, correct?
If yes, I have a couple of questions.
1. How do you know it is time to adjust the valves?
2. How do you turn the crank shaft? The starter? The fan? A breaker bar on the fly wheel nut?
3. While I have it open should I be looking for anything else?
Thanks everyone.
|
Posted By: 160 allis
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2022 at 9:31pm
|
Any time the valve cover is off a tractor you don't know the history on is a good time to run the valves. Valve adjustments are often overlooked on a lot of tractors since it's a pain to get to the valve cover. I always use a socket or wrench on the crank pulley to turn the engine over until I reach tdc. On 185 tractors you gotta take the 2 bolts off the plate that goes across the bottom below the crank gear before you can access it. Not sure if the 6080 has the plate as i haven't worked on one. Look at the rocker arms and everything while you're in there. Hope this helps.
|
|