Now that I figured out how to mount the new Allis 500 loader, controlling it is next.  It did not come with a control valve but used the remote ports.  While I could do an electric diverter and remotes, it is about as expensive as a joytstick.  I actually did a search on how to plumb for a loader control valve and was fortunate to find a diagram done by joe(tx) on here.  There is one variation in that I am using a 3rd valve to control a bale grabber. 

From the diagram, I learned that I split apart the current line coming off of the pump and send it to the inlet port on the valve, then send the PowerBeyond port from the valve back to that same line.  Finally, I need to T off of the return line right before the filter and send that to the return port of the valve. 

It would be very helpful if I could get an understanding of how the lines were actually routed with a picture of the lines on 190xt.  Line lengths would be handy too.

Assuming my plumbing route is correct above, I want to try this 3 spool system if it will work.  It comes with a PowerBeyond adapter plug.  The 190XT is only 12GPM but this valve is 25GPM.  I think it is a maximum rating but is this valve too large?  190xt is supposed to be 2000psi so I don't need to change the factory setting.  They don't seem to have a combo unit like this in smaller sizes so I would have to move away from the joystick w/grapple entirely which isn't the end of the world.  I think on a 12 GPM I should have a minimum 17GPM rated 3 spool valve.

Thanks for any and all help.

Here is the pic from surplus center and is Prince HC-V-BP22 model at $427 (out of stock until March, of course) :

Here are the specs

https://www.surpluscenter.com/" rel="nofollow - https://www.surpluscenter.com/

Thanks guys.  Never thought about a drain T.  The rope is also a good idea.  That's why I ask the forum before I get too far.

In terms of mounting, I am going to have to remove the cab and then rig up a support that has the arm length that is most comfortable.  I have a couple of designs that I am going to think about.  I hate to remove the cab forever but it is quite hot in the summer time for haymaking and that's mostly what this tractor does, although it will be used a bit more in the winter for moving round bales with the front loader on it.  I know I could drill some holes in the cab and get the hoses inside if I wanted to, but that's a lot of hoses and a lot of holes. 

I don't know much about bending and making metal lines versus rubber but it would sure look nicer and maybe easier to secure when coming out of the pump line and going back from the Power Beyond.  I am wondering if I could make a pattern out of cheaper fuel line piping and then take to a hydraulic shop for some parts of this project?  Anyone have any experience with making or having metal lines made for something like this?

Going to need an umbrella or a ROPS for the summer once the cab comes off!  The dollars are piling up as usual.  I am going to have more money into the loader, hydraulics and quick attach bucket adapter than the tractor cost me originally! 

On the bright side, if all of this works and hangs together, it is going to be a sweet 190xt with a loader!  Hope I can get all of this done by May.

DrAllis, That's tempting to remove the doors and windows although it would be nice to leave the windshield.  I haven't posted a picture of what I did but I made an electrical console that controls lights, wiper, turn signals and a fan.  Fan pulls in fresh air from the outside and helps a bunch to cool the cab.  Keeping the windshield would keep the wind off of you in the winter. 

One of the negatives about this cab is that the tractor didn't originally come with the cab and it wasn't properly mounted.  Even when I bought it 4 years ago, the top rear of the cab has a crack in it from shaking.  Keeping the rear window shut actually gives it some support from splitting further.  When we open up the rear window the cab shakes more.  Could just weld up a support bracket and fix the bad mounting to keep it from splitting more.  My other hunch is that all the glass is giving it some structural integrity and once removed the cab may start to crack apart in other places.  Sometimes I feel like it is just going to rattle apart.

The cab doesn't have much use or value after taking it off other than someone wanting some glass.  So making it into a sun shade isn't a bad use rather than looking at it sit in the weeds for years.  I think it's even hard to give away these cabs.

Here is a hybrid idea of what you suggest.  I could leave all of the front glass in place for wind reduction and structural integrity.  The stopler cab has a solid piece of metal plate on the lower right side so I could bring my lines in there.  Admittedly, might look a little like Frankenstein hydraulics with the hoses coming in from the side but this is for function not style.  I could remove the bottom half door and put back on in the winter. The top windows I can already latch back and keep in place.  I could remove the rear window and put back on in the winter.  I could mount another fan to give more circulation.  I would leave the two rear side glasses in place for structural integrity.  I could position the joystick ports such that they go directly through the side of the cab on the right lower and hoses go around toward the engine and make a valve mount plate that attaches to that cab plate.  Since we look at the hay windrow via that lower right glass, I need to keep that clear.  The negative with this design is that the throttle and power director shift knobs might be very close to the joystick.  I would have to make it higher than those knobs and give clearance, but then I might be stretching my arm to use loader all of the time.

My son wants me to remove the cab and he does most of the haymaking so I might get overruled but I am going to think about this plenty more and take some measurements. 

Thanks for the ideas.

Yep and then he would ask for $2500 ROPS. 

When he was like 14, I had him driving the tractor when baling.  The round baler net wrap quit cutting and the hay got so dry it wouldn't feed and start a bale.  So I followed the baler around walking, pulled hay out and/or crawled underneath the baler and cut the wrap each time.  It was extremely hot outside and probably over 100 inside that cab and baling was taking forever.  He tried to quit on me and I made him stay in the cab.  i told him my job was way worse than his. 

And that's why he doesn't like that cab.