I solved the problem of mounting the universal mirrors on the 7010 cab.  This is definitely going to allow us to see the bales being ejected from the baler and traffic behind the baler when going down the road.  Here are some highlights:

1) Due to the stadium light bracket, the fact that I couldn't go through the corner post and the need to move the mirror out away from the cab, I decided to make my own bracket.

2) I have only drilled 2 holes so far and the bracket seems to be quite sturdy.  I may add a 3rd screw.

3) I used 5/16 thick angle iron of width at 4 inches and length of 16 inches.  I didn't need angle iron but it is what I had available.  I made a plexiglass template to insure I lined up the light screw holes properly and to insure the other side was exactly the same.  I had to notch the end of the angle iron to get a full 4 inches for my mirror bracket.  I may have to lower that mirror bracket a tad once I put my roof back on.

4) I replaced the old lights with newer LEDs and I was able to reuse the same exact screws.  New lights are a lot brighter and they are slightly larger.  You can see there is no clearance left at the top of the light.

5) In order to see the mirror in the seat without the post being in the way, I had to extend the bracket out 3 inches beyond the length of the cab.  It is also tricky when aligning mirror in that when going up the steps, you want the mirror out in front so that you don't hit your head on it.  When sitting in the seat, I do not have to move my head to look around the post at the mirror.  It took me awhile to get that alignment.

6) If you have a cab without the stadium lights, you would not have to build a bracket in my opinion.  However, the placement of the mirrors I bought works out better with the bracket.

7) Now that I have everything figured out, and drilled, I may locate a flat stock 4 inch piece of steel and not use the angle iron.

8) I may paint it black otherwise the new orange paint will make me want to repaint the cab. :-)  I used stainless steel screws with locking nuts on the back.

9) If someone wants to make it a parade tractor some day all they have to do is fill in two or three screw holes per side.

10) So while it would appear to be an easy task to put mirrors on, the setup of the stadium lights makes it a little trickier.  Plumberscarin suggested the bracket so a big thanks on that.  I thought about a bracket all the way across and use the stadium bracket screws but I would have to notch the steel for the wiper so I split it into two pieces.

Here is a close up

Here is my template.  Notice that I changed my mind on hole positions.  I took the roof off to see what I was drilling into.

Thanks.  Coming up with the idea of putting the light on top of the bracket was necessary and made it fall into place.  After having done this though, I think I could have put two screw holes just to the left of primary post, snugged the bracket right up to the edge of the light and still had a strong 6 inch bracket.  I was worried that it would be too flimsy.

There is a tightening knob that will let the mirror retract to the point of being less than the tire width.  Of course, remembering to collapse it is another thing before hitting tree limbs.  The always sneak up on you. 

There are breakaway mirror kits for sale at about twice the money that I spent on this kit, so I will probably go in that direction if I break it off.  I hope it doesn't screw up my cab metal though if it does happen.  I wasn't sure how I was going to mount the mirrors so I didn't splurge on the better mirror kit.  I believe my bracket is flexible and can handle other mirror kits.

We don't spend much time near trees on the haymaking so it should be a fluke situation.  Of course, if it can happen, it will happen.

Looks good. I've been wanting to put some on my 7000.

  Tim