D-17 allis chalmers not running smooth and going d
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=184838
Printed Date: 29 Apr 2024 at 5:24am
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Topic: D-17 allis chalmers not running smooth and going d
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Subject: D-17 allis chalmers not running smooth and going d
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2021 at 8:28am
| I rebuilt the engine put electronic ignition new plugs and wires. Rebuilt carburetor. Put old manifold on with new gaskets with the round metal plates on them . Tractor cranks but runs rough and at times backfires and air comes out of carburetor. Any ideas.?? |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2021 at 9:08am
| Firing order is 1-2-4-3. Clockwise rotation of distributer looking down to top. |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2021 at 2:00pm
| Checked that . The wiring is correct thanks. |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2021 at 3:39pm
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Has the timing been checked? ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2021 at 3:53pm
| First would be timing and firing order. Next would be carb adjustment |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2021 at 8:06pm
|
Pull one plug wire off. Do it on every cylinder. If you pull one off and no change then you know something is wrong with that one. Just because they are new don't make them good. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2021 at 8:15pm
| I'm sure if you put new electronic ING. on, it needs timing checked and adjusted. MACK |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2021 at 9:08pm
Check it again...sounds like wires crossed
|
CE Mississippi wrote:Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2021 at 10:41am
| Double checked wires . All good . Timing ok . Now checking valve adjustment. A little confused. On page 18 of shop manual it shows what to adjust valve tapper gap to with number 1 cylinder at TDC . And also what to adjust remaining valves to with number 4 cylinder at TDC. On the D-17 number 1 and 4 are TDC at same time?? |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2021 at 2:54pm
| Got valves adjusted. Runs like a top thanks fellas. Now I have to work on clutch. When you push in clutch it doesn’t stop the tractor. I put a new plate in . You think it’s the pressure plate ?? |
Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2021 at 2:58pm
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Also do a compression test and report on the readings. If there are wacky readings, it could be valve lash.
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Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2021 at 3:25pm
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I would still do a compression test. For our knowledge, how out of adjustment were the valves, would you say some were not even closing?
|
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2021 at 6:05pm
| They were all tight . Had to loosen all up and set to the right spacing. Not sure how to do the clutch pressure test . |
Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2021 at 7:30pm
|
Glad you got it fixed, running with exhaust valve not seated can (will) lead to damage, especially under working loads. As for the clutch I don't know. Ordinary dry disk single clutches they always tell you to adjust the clutch pedal free play per the manual. Too much free play may mean you effectively cannot push in the pedal far enough to disengage the clutch, could give a dragging effect. Could you have put the disc in backwards? Why did you change it, did the old one have the same issue? Wait for the guys who know to give clutch advice. |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2021 at 7:39pm
| I had to put a rear seal in the engine and the plate had never been changed so I replaced it while I had it apart. I don’t see any way to adjust it . Thinking I should’ve put a new pressure plate in as well. Live and learn. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2021 at 8:08pm
|
Clutch free play is adjusted at the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal should have a set amount of distance while the pedal is back until it is pushed forward as it touches the throw out bearing. That distance is in your owners manual. I do not have a D17 manual so I would have to look it up to be sure. That adjustment if it is like our D15 is adjusted by detaching the clutch rod from the clutch pedal and turning it in or out depending which direction you need to adjust the free play. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2021 at 6:19am
| Ok thanks I will check that. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2021 at 9:10am
|
[QUOTE=CE Mississippi] Double checked wires . All good . Timing ok . Now checking valve adjustment. A little confused. On page 18 of shop manual it shows what to adjust valve tapper gap to with number 1 cylinder at TDC . And also what to adjust remaining valves to with number 4 cylinder at TDC. On the D-17 number 1 and 4 are TDC at same ] They are both up on TOP center but not TDC and the camshaft turns half speed of crank so the valve lash is adjustable on different valves in different positions. Not confusing when you understand how it works. |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2021 at 9:21am
| Got it thanks |
Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2021 at 4:37pm
| First check clutch adjustment. Depending on how hard it slid back together you could've bent the disk. Or put the disk in backwards. |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2021 at 5:23pm
| The d-17 has no adjustment other than the pedal and that’s just for leg length. Gotta split it to be sure all is correct. Thanks |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2021 at 6:46pm
| The D-17 has adjustment on each pressure plate finger !! All the clutch pedal rod does is position the pedal either farther back or forward when released. I have tools made to be able to adjust finger height when the tractor is assembled. Assuming there's nothing mechanically wrong with your clutch repair, I'll bet the fingers are too far away from the throwout bearing. So they need to be moved closer. You still want as much freeplay as possible, but the clutch should release when the pedal is pushed clear down. Always test your clutch adjustment as soon as the engine is rolled up tight and two bolts installed. Place the PTO lever in gear. Clamp a 10 inch Vise-Grips on the PTO shaft at the rear of the tractor. Transmission in neutral. Hand clutch in neutral. Someone in the seat holding the clutch pedal 100% fully DOWN. You should be able to turn the PTO shaft with little effort. |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 11:42am
|
Will try that thanks. Also I am changing the oil in the transmission. The manual calls for 6 gallons of 80w oil. Is there a substitute or should I find 80w. Thanks |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 11:54am
| Looks like the fingers are about an inch from the throw out bearing . |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 12:06pm
| That’s with no pressure on clutch. |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 3:42pm
| That’s what it was DR got it going . Thanks now to the shuttle clutch. It creeps when it’s in the neutral position. But it will work in the high and low positions. |
Posted By: eryanh
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2021 at 3:26pm
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Use 80-90. If you ever find straight 80 then consider yourself lucky. ------------- 1958 AC D17 Series 1 NF 1949 Farmall M NF 1938 AC B |
Posted By: eryanh
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2021 at 3:29pm
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Not sure if you mean the power director or if its an actual shuttle but if its PD then when the oil is cold, it will creep. Once warmed up it shouldn't do it at all. That is if the transmission is in gear. ------------- 1958 AC D17 Series 1 NF 1949 Farmall M NF 1938 AC B |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2021 at 6:56pm
| Don't use 80/90 in the Power Director clutch. Use Universal hydraulic/transmission oil and even at that, until the oil temp is up to 150 degrees or more there will be some creeping in neutral. It will creep the most in LOW gear. It will creep the least in 4th gear. This is normal for an oil bathed clutch. |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2021 at 4:58am
| Will do thanks DR |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2021 at 7:18am
TDC is Top Dead Center no matter what stroke it's on. A 4 stroke engine has TDC on the compression stroke, AND TDC of the exhaust stoke. Cylinder one and cylinder four are both at TDC at the same time, BUT, one is on compression and the other is on exhaust. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2021 at 7:23am
|
Most, if not all "shuttle clutches" were on the left side of the tractor. A shuttle clutch gives you forward or reverse, without shifting gears. The "power director" is on the right side, and gives you 2 forward speeds in the same gear. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: CE Mississippi
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2021 at 7:55am
| This is the power director clutch on the right side. |