615 BackHoe with Engine D2200
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=184334
Printed Date: 14 May 2024 at 8:07am
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Topic: 615 BackHoe with Engine D2200
Posted By: Kieth
Subject: 615 BackHoe with Engine D2200
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 2:59pm
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New here. only 34 years young so lot to learn yet hoping to have some help with that. I was a US army Para-Core QRF and 63b/91w Witch is all wheel mechanic and track Diesel and Gas. I know my way around a diesel engine. I have most my experience on 5.9 cummins and 6.6 vortec along with some 6.2s. Never any thing this old. That being said. I do not know much about the older diesels like my 615 with a d2200 diesel engine. I got it not running for a low price. Need a in frame rebuild the guys said. Will not start low compression. Fuel ok. Injector pump tested ok. One injector has its head broke for the pressure nozzle but still dumbs all the fuel I need. New start batter air filter fuel filter and fuel. cranks over like a champ. Trying to get it running to see if all the other hydro works on it. Sat for 2 year never cranked. guy got back surgery and went down hill hard. Pulled it out from behind his garage with a winch and dropped in my yard. NEED some help/advice. Should I order the full kit? rings-rod bearings-piston sleeves and such or jut throw some rings on it to get the compression back and see if it is worth dumping more money in? I have the parts manual nothing ells. need to get the other one but every one want 60 bucks a pop for a old 40 page book, crazy. I'm looking for a free PDF manual for rebuilding specs and such. Full backhoe is all there. not missing any thing that I'm aware of. How much dose one go for if it is up and running? It dose not have the circler piston hydro motor for the backhoe. It has a normal backhoe right to left piston driven arm. Any Info or wisdom on this machine would be great. I'm new to old stuff and new to OLD STUFF with few parts lol. I can call/tex/email/msnger or threw the forum. Thank you for you time and effort. I will have pic up soon I hope. Keith Kehoe. I have a LOT of questions if any one has time and the knowledge I would love the opportunity to talk to you. Thanks again.
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Replies:
Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2021 at 3:57pm
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Welcome to the forum! What I would do in your case, remove the head and check over pistons and liners from what is visible, then pull the pan... likely the bottom end is OK if he was running it 'til it was parked. At that point, pull the pistons and by that time you can make your assessment. If things look reasonably good, go with a ring job and bringing the valves up to snuff. It sounds like new injectors would be a good idea. When the rest of the machine is this old it's not like everything has to be 100%. This reasoning is more difficult for you 'professional mechanics' to settle for, as in your training and practice you are used to making engines like new while cost of parts don't come out of your own pockets. I think you can follow my viewpoint... Wishing you the best with this venture! ------------- Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal! |
Posted By: Kieth
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 12:35pm
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Thank you for getting back with me. I have pulled then Head have taken out the rear cylinder to get a look at what is going on. You are right the bottom in looks great. cylinder walls not so much where that sat and got water. You are right about wanting to make it 100%. I have the urge but not the money lol in the army I would just order every thing and throw it back with all factory settings. Here are some PICs of what i found on the inside. Plz if you would advice on what you see. My thought is it could use new rings sleeves and maybe rod bearings? NEVER re-sleeve a engine uploads/22571/IMG_20211103_123203702.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/22571/IMG_20211103_123203702.jpg uploads/22571/IMG_20211103_123218499.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/22571/IMG_20211103_123218499.jpg
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Posted By: Kieth
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 12:47pm
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Posted By: Kieth
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 12:53pm
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Posted By: Kieth
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 1:00pm
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 3:19pm
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I guess I would have done a compression check before removing head as low compression could be valves also The 2200 was also used in other tractors , HD4 and in cotton pickers where they turbowed it to get 85 HP out of it . ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Kieth
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 4:32pm
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84 hour out of it. I can see the 3.9 4bt is about the same size. It can push 200 easy so ya. What did you think about the cylinder sleeves look good enough to throw rings and run or will I have to pull them. Dos not need to run for ever or push 100 horse. Just need it to run for a couple more year wile I'm building my family home on some bare land. If I cant get it working I guess ill part it out. These have a lot of parts ppl want I guess. Any thoughts or feed back is helpful.
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 10:28pm
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Might be worth doing a ball hone tool clean up and just rings . Mine needed a sniff of either at below 30 F and to save batteries at 40 F give it a quick shot before cranking it over - not much just a quick spray ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2021 at 11:56pm
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If all the pistons are about like the one in the picture they will be good enough once they are cleaned up. I can't quite make out details of the liners, how are the ridges close to the top inside the liners? What did the piston/liner clearance look like before you pulled them out. You could check the bearings with plastigage, my guess is the bottom end is OK the way it is. ------------- Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal! |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2021 at 4:41am
The way to see if the bottom end rings true, is to invert the block, with the crank bolts still tight, and take a long aligning punch, smack each cap, like you are paddling a child, and if the punch rings, like a tuning fork, bearings are OK. If you hear a "thock" instead of a ringing sound, that bearing needs looking into...
If you have a ridge at that top of the cyl, try this: Take a copper penny, drag it up the inside of the bore, from the bottom. if the ridge cuts a shaving off the penny, it needs ridge reaming... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2021 at 9:39pm
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HMMM- copper pennies are now ZINC with copper plating - does that trick still work ? ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Kieth
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2021 at 3:31am
| Thanks for the info. Ill get out there soon and get more pic and info. Will brush the bores do a re-hone and over size rings, rod bearings and seals. only $100 I guess the d2200 was a popular engine so still cheep parts. I just need here to run for a bit longer. Will up date with pic on the hone and ill give he copper a try and get pics for you guys for a answer to that question. Ill try penny copper ring and maybe a peace of copper pipe should be soft enough. cant hurt them more then they are already lol. |
Posted By: Kieth
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2021 at 6:54pm
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Going to go with this IN FRAME REBUILD kit thought? https://www.tractorjoe.com/parts/p/ik-ac-914114-allis-chalmers-inframe-kit/mt/tractor/b/allis-chalmers/m/615/g/engine-overhaul-kits/" rel="nofollow - https://www.tractorjoe.com/parts/p/ik-ac-914114-allis-chalmers-inframe-kit/mt/tractor/b/allis-chalmers/m/615/g/engine-overhaul-kits/
Better place or price any one knows off? Or have one you never used that you want to unload at a ok price? Thanks Kieth. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2021 at 8:23pm
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Might want to consider using 8010 pistons to help it start easier. It could have 14:1, 15:1 or 16:1 pistons, find out the ratio of the ones in the kit, not a fan of Reliance myself. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: pinball
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2021 at 12:42pm
| i have the same motor except mine is gas. they say everything below the head is the same. when i went to get a water pump the guy said he had two on the shelf which surprised me then i asked him about it he told me that motor is the same as the 190 allis tractor. ive also had one with the d220 diesel. the gas is just as good as the diesel. possibly another option since the gas motor is cheaper to work on. dont know the value of a working one now. prices seems to be up quite a bit. good luck on your venture. theres 2/3 people on here that really are knowledgeable. |
Posted By: Kieth
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2021 at 6:55am
| Pistons, rings, head, road bearings and such all back on the 615 AC. Now waiting for injectors and injector pump to get back from the shop and hope she runs. 2k in the engine just to see if I Have good hydraulics is kind of scary. |