Wheel Loader rebuild
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=183981
Printed Date: 18 Apr 2024 at 11:41pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Wheel Loader rebuild
Posted By: NorthState Machine
Subject: Wheel Loader rebuild
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2021 at 6:41am
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Hello All- wanted to ask the group for some advice with a 1965 Fiat/Allis 545 rebuild. Hour meter doesnt work, but im guessing it has plus 5K hours on it, with at least one rebuild done at an unknown time in its life... Pulled the engine last week, going to start tearing that down, and removed the main valve body which was the source of a lot of grief with the controls/leaks/etc. Was going to pull the transmission too, but ended up leaving it in. The lower front pinion seal is leaking, so i am going to drop both lower shafts and replace those seals since there is some more room right now. The input shaft does have a little play in it, not a lot, but there is some present. However the bell housing is dry, so i would assume its not in too rough of shape behind the TC.
 It shifts as it should prior to pulling, my only complaint would be it seemed to me like it wasn't as strong as it should be? But, as i hear it, some folks say the old stuff had to be screaming to get pressures up enough to make stuff move as it should. (That would definitely be this machine!) The only ugly issue it has (if you call an issue at this point) it must have had a starter failure at some point in its life, the starter i pulled off it, which worked as it should, was fine, but there were teeth in front and behind the flywheel/converter. These bumbling around in there all but rounded the flex disc bolts right off. Had a bit of trouble getting some out where they didnt have any heads left in hex form. Was able to fish the remaining teeth pieces out though. After explaining these conditions of the tranny, would anyone else feel comfortable leaving it in it too? I hate to waste the opportunity now, where its mostly apart, but at the same time this work is happening outside and i live in northern Maine- so time isnt on my side to button this up is all. Thanks for any advice/tips. |
Replies:
Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2021 at 3:52pm
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I think the answer is to decide how much you want to spend $$-wise, how much you have already invested and how much work you expect the 545 to do for you still? It sounds like you're not afraid of work and getting your hands greasy which is awesome when you own older machines. Unless you do the transmission yourself it could become expensive. If you end up investing more than the machine 'can pay you back' (or what you can resell it for) you are holding the 'short end of the stick'. The 745 I owned did not have 'like new' performance of the transmission but it did the job I expected of it for 6 years, unchanged I might add. Once you go after perfecting an old machine the hours and $$ are somewhat unpredictable and at the end it is, non-the-less, a 56 year old machine. As much as I am a real fan of A-C machines, I have owned a 1992 Komatsu loader for over 15 years and it is virtually unchanged in performance with only buying new batteries and to boot I can sell it for more than what I paid for it. ------------- Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal! |
Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2021 at 10:21am
Thanks for advice Eric B. I guess i would say, this loader does not have to do much work, its a snow machine for a small driveway, it pulls a few logs here and there for fire wood, and as soon as i can make a quick attachment, it will move sheet steel off the delivery truck for me too. But overall, it doesnt add up to a lot of hours or hard work. That being said, i suppose im one of those folks that just wants it to be right. Perfect isnt quite the word, but not opposed to going a little farther to make sure it all good. Couple of last thoughts- i believe its about $600 for a seal kit for that tranny- probably going to run into a bearing or two- not sure how bad that could get. Labor is free in this case. Also very fortunate to have a brother with service truck and some of the high-speed tooling an average joe like me doesn't have. Seems like recently, we cant get a day were it doesnt rain here, and snow its probably days away, so most likely, its going to get a good cleaning, a little paint, lower shaft seals and thats it for now, but i have to say it just feel plain wrong not to fix it right when its literally all exposed at the moment... I wanted to "poll the audience" if im commiting a cardinal sin here by not going 100% now, or maybe in some cases, this being one of them?, if it isnt broke, dont fix it
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Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2021 at 10:26am
 
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Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2021 at 12:01pm
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Thanks for the pictures! You're definitely the right guy for this kind of project, also with good help and support from that local service truck. Doing the engine will be nice to have under your belt and shouldn't be too expensive. Hopefully you will have it back together and working good ahead of those eastern seaboard snow storms. We'll look forward to your progress report. These machines are excellent for snow removal. The FR12 I had is identical to the 545. ------------- Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal! |
Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:08am
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Removed cab, hydro tank, and second hot pressure wash after scrapping and hand cleaning what I could  |
Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:13am
 Would you believe I was able to get this off by hand?!? Just enough room to roll back onto the frame and then down to the ground.
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Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:17am
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Before Paint 
After Paint  |
Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:19am
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Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:21am
Going to need to do new seals on the axles, after cleaning (and painting) gear oil started seeping out from between the hub/brake drums- im sure the front is not too far from the same condition
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Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:22am
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Remaining parts (most of them that is) sanded/primed/prep 
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Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:24am
  
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Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:26am
  
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Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:28am
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A little heat blast to finish the cure process- (its getting cold here) Cab will get trailered up this week and brought to the glass shop for new glass and seals on the front and rear windows. 
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Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 7:30am
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As for everything else: Rad should be done this week, tested good, but needs a thorough cleaning. Steering cylinders should be done next week and hydro hoses coming in next week-fingers crossed Motor, is at the machine shop today- one bad cylinder and another quite tired to say the least- will have pics soon for that.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 8:41am
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Thats a big job for a small shop Ken... Your doing a great job !! Like the NEW FA color ! ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: tadams(OH)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 1:36pm
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Definately looking good
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Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 2:23pm
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Wow!! You're being thorough, good job! Thanks for the interesting progress report with pictures! ------------- Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 3:44pm
I like the "aluminum hanger" you used to hang parts for painting... Kind of looks like a ladder i once owned !  ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2021 at 9:13am
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Yes- the color was supposed to be a bit more on the yellow side- I used krylon New Equipment Yellow. although it does match the label color band on the can, it usually has a more bright yellow to it. Not John Deere yellow bright, but more like road paint yellow. This stuff unfortunately came out a bit more towards the beige/tan side of it. Closer to a CAT yellow. I wonder if it was old stock, it was very separated in the cans. I mixed all three very well and still couldnt get them too look closer to what i remember the collor being. Part of the reason i even decided to use the Krylon (not really a brand i typically care for...) They had this color available in gallon cans and spray cans. I thought i could spray it on and later down the road if it got scuffed or scratched i could use the spray cans for touch up and not have to worry about matching. Well, the spray cans are much more yellow than the cans... so that theory is out! And yes- that is a ladder! haha- crime of opportunity, I have strung up a cable in the past but with the weight of some of the parts i figured it would have been hard to keep it from sagging to the floor. Saw the ladder on the wall and thought- that would work! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2021 at 9:44am
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I like the darker "CAT YELLOW"... I worked in the Construction end of Allis and we started painting the big dozers and loaders that color in the late 1980s... FD series dozers and FR series loaders.... I bought a couple gallons of it when i repainted our CASE 530 backhoe.. NICE COLOR ! ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2022 at 10:23am
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Hello Folks, Finally back on the forum here with a quick update/question. Its been a little while since I last posted, left off with pulling the motor out of the 545 and working on the many fun surprises that came with it! (But not to worry, nothing to bad that a little money won't fix!) Block has been machined, crank has been done, and head work is complete. Getting a new cam and liners and pistons, (1 new rod as well.) It sure is a tough old motor because any of that newer stuff would have given up the ghost a little quicker i think with all of its aliments... I found one rod to be miss-match between rod and cap, which did a number on the rod itself (and the crank) and their is a taper bearing set behind the smaller timing gear that in my case, had seized and somehow did not spoil the bore it is in on the block. Still have to completely rebuild the vacuum pump, but since i havent done the wheel seals and wheel cylinders yet, that's not neccassarily a big issue. (hasn't had brakes in many years anyways) At the moment, I am in search of a new crank dampener- would anybody be able to point me in a good direction for this item? I contacted a memeber (DIYDave i believe) back before i started the project on the good year/ motor info- based on the early serial number i have, the machine is a 1965 545 with a Mark II 2900 engine. DIYDave also mentioned this is the same motor as a 190XT farm tractor? Appreciate any help/advice-
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Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2022 at 11:03am
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Here's the only image i got during the machining process  
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Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2022 at 11:45am
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Thanks for your update, good to know you're still working at it! ------------- Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal! |
Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2022 at 2:59pm
| How bad is the damper? If just the rubber layer they can be rebuilt. Been some time since it was discussed , the guy had good reviews on quality and price but only worked a few months a year or something. If nobody else speaks up here maybe take D 2900 over to the farm section where the most people see it. |
Posted By: NorthState Machine
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2022 at 3:39pm
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OK- i can definitely look at posting the question over on the tractor forum too- thank you. Metallically, the dampener is fine. Taper is good, pulley/belts grooves are all fine, its just the rubber is coming right out of it is all. You're not sure of the fella who rebuild's them huh? I'd be at least interested in trying to make contact with him for this one. I have been looking around and think I found one on the web, (new) but it was pricey- in the ballpark of $600 alone. (not counting the shipping! Yikes)
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2022 at 10:01pm
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i have never used they guys............ but.. https://www.damperdoctor.com/" rel="nofollow - https://www.damperdoctor.com/ ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |