Impact Driver ??
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Topic: Impact Driver ??
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Subject: Impact Driver ??
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 7:35pm
I've seen drill bits with the 1/4" quick shank connector for the impacts. Up until last week, I've never seen a drill bit used in a "wood boring" application until a plumber came in and was drilling supply line holes in the wall plate/subfloor with an impact gun    . For starters, it was a LONG, LOUD ordeal that IMO, did NOT save any time for the poor guy  , but I am curious if any of you guys "rattle" a drill hole in wood or steel for that matter  . For concrete, I'll use a designated corded Hammer Drill, but never dreamed of "hammering" a hole in wood  |
Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 7:51pm
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I hate the 1/4" impacts (yeah I have 3, 3 still in their boxes...), well all impacts really.. too dang NOISEY and I wear earmuffs...having loud 24/7 tinnitus is NO fr*&*^^&^ing fun for 99% of the jobs I see guys use them for a regular drill will work fine. hate seeing screw BURIED into wood, zero strength in that(should be just under flush..) ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: dee_veloper
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 8:09pm
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Nobody should "rattle" a drill hole in wood or steel, unless they don't know what they're doing,..... ------------- Don't confuse my personality with my attitude. My personality is who I am. My attitude depends on who you are. |
Posted By: klinemar
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 8:26pm
| A drill is for drilling and an impact is for tightening or loosening. A hammer drill or rotary hammer is a class by itself. I do have a cordless 3/8 impact that I have used to drive timber screws into posts when repairing treated posts in my pole barn that had rotted at ground level as at the time we back filled with dirt instead of crushed stone. I understand now many pole barns are built on concrete piers to avoid rotting. |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2021 at 8:08pm
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I’ve seen guys try it as well. I have no idea why. I do prefer an impact driver for deck screws n such. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2021 at 6:54am
| On occasion I have done that where a regular (and larger) drill wouldn't fit. Maybe his drill puked and was using what was available to get the job done. And frankly, on some jobs if the client was annoyed it made my day. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2021 at 6:55am
| Years ago, prior job, we had a 1/2 inch Milwaukee Hammer drill, that you could engage or disengage the hammer with a spring loaded collar just above the chuck. Nice powerful drill, except the dang collar wouldn't stay in the disengaged position very well, would slip off and go into hammer mode. So.....with unintentional first hand experience, I can tell you impact drilling into steel is NOT a good idea. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2021 at 10:11am
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2 attachments I use to use were a keyless chuck and a tap holder both with 1/2" hole to be used on impact . Was handy for doing many jobs ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2021 at 9:30am
| I use my 1/4" impact driver slot and I use the step drill in it to adjust the holes it occasionally will hammer if I'm doing it wrong but I then stop and re align the |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2021 at 9:07pm
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The reason why one would choose a 1/4" impact driver, is most often because of access. A 1/4" impact driver does NOT have a big chuck to increase it's length. A 1/4" impact driver is therefore substantially SHORTER in total package. I do it precisely for this reason... but I do choose a drill in most cases.
------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |