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B clutch replacement

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=183091
Printed Date: 05 May 2024 at 12:26pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: B clutch replacement
Posted By: mdm1
Subject: B clutch replacement
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2021 at 4:55pm
I apologize if this has been covered alot but after searching I decided just to ask. I have a 1944 B with a 1945 engine from a power unit. You had to let the pedal out quite aways before the clutch would engage. When it did you better be ready because it was going. I need a new ring gear anyways so I split the tractor. There is 1/8" of fiber on each side of the disc. (don't know if that is good or bad) No broke springs. But I think I am going to replace the clutch and try to find someone to surface the flywheel. The throwout bearing needs to be replaced and the shaft is really loose. How to I get the bearing and shaft out? Do I need to tap out the pin? And is replacing a pilot bushing tough? What is the adjustment of the fingers before installing? And can I turn an alignment tool on my wood lathe, if so do I have the shaft diameter without the splines and then with the splines so it looks like the shaft? I guess I am looking for the whole clutch procedure. Thanks in advance for any help for the tractor challenged guy.

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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!



Replies:
Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2021 at 6:27pm
As far as the disk you have to look at the amount of lining above the rivets, not the actual thickness of lining. If your 1/8" above the rivets than the disk is practically new. I've made alignment tools out of round stock, as long as your wooden one fits snug in the disk and pilot you should be fine. As far as fingers, they should be preset on the new/re-manufactured pressure plate. Some have nuts or washers under them by the pivot to make for easier assembly. Make sure they are removed once bolted down. Usually fall out as you bolt it. Then with a micrometer check from disk to button to make sure they are all with in a 32nd or 2.   


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2021 at 7:09pm
A Service manual covers all of your questions and a good one from AGCO will have good pictures.

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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2021 at 5:16pm
Boss Man thanks for the reply. I assume you mean to check from the disk to the bottom of the finger. I did go back to the manual and got the info I needed I think. Everything is out and I will be ordering the parts. The reason I asked on here was because sometimes things are not always explained in the manual like someone who maybe knows a trick or two!

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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!


Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2021 at 6:35pm
The thickness of the material is supposed to be 1/8" thick, so yours sounds like a good one and the adjustment of the fingers should be 1/4" between the fingers and the throw out bearing...get them as even as you can and it might take a time or two...


Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 6:02am
Rick the fingers are getting flat where they touch the bearing and the disc feels somewhat sticky and the throwout bearing wobbles pretty good. I think I may just replace it all. Wish you were still doing them.

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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!


Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 11:19am
Yep...time to replace the clutch then...might be the rear seal leaking, if it's sticky to the touch or looks like oil on the clutch disc...Rick


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2021 at 8:50am
Fix him up Rick with one of your super setups!
Steve@B&B


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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2021 at 10:16am
Steve I have contacted Rick but he said he is no longer doing clutches.  He has been helpful as others have. I have a gasket kit that has a felt seal for the rear seal. Will that work to replace the one on there? If it will do I have to do anything to the seal when installing. 

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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!


Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2021 at 12:46pm
Update. Sorry it took so long to reply. I just got done with the clutch. Had to adjust the clutch rod and the fingers. Because of the lack of a third hand I took a flat magnet, shimmed it to the thickness I needed and stuck it to the throwout bearing. I adjusted the fingers to the magnet. Worked good. Clutch seams to work good. had to fix a few other things. Best part was my son wanted to help. Smarter than me. Thanks to everyone that gave advice and helped. Learned alot. mike

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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!



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