Sprayer Maintenance
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=182780
Printed Date: 20 Sep 2025 at 8:02pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Sprayer Maintenance
Posted By: Tbone95
Subject: Sprayer Maintenance
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 1:45pm
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Off color/ off topic I suppose, but thought I'd ask you guys' opinion. I have a 3 section sprayer, with a Raven 440 (pretty sure that's the model) controller. What do you guys do to maintain the solenoid valves, particularly to prevent them from sticking? There is, of course, a stack of 3, and the one from the left boom does not turn on good. It could be a coincidence, after all there's a 1 in 3 chance, but it's the one for the same section that didn't turn on good a couple years ago. At that time, I simply bought a new set of them, not knowing how old they were, didn't want an oddball in there screwing up the rate for 1 boom compared to the others, whatever, thought it was simpler to put in a new set of 3. Here just a couple years later, got one sticking again as I said. I am pretty sure it is a "mechanical" issue and not an electrical one. Reason I say that, when you make your turn and turn the sprayer on, if that boom doesn't come on good, if you quickly turn another boom off/on that surge of pressure will open the poorly opened one and you're good to go to the other end of your pass. Never drops out along the way, never mess with the connectors or anything other than the natural tractor movements, just that quick pressure surge opens it. You have to watch, the controller doesn't alarm out on this, it's not that smart. It knows 3 sections are on and adjusts the total volume for the correct rate overall. It doesn't know the flowrate to each individual section, so if one is way off like that the flow just goes through the other 2. Anyway, thoughts and ideas appreciated.
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Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 6:51pm
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Tbone, im not exactly sure how that works.. If the solenoid is WET inside and the chemicals are causing it to stick... we use to flush them out with watered down laundry soap... or WD40. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 9:02am
| Yeah, I'll have to tear it apart and have a look no matter the advice. I guess I was just looking for any sort of preventative measures, like you do when you put them away for the winter or something? Trying to think of something that doesn't just "rinse" away. Seems no matter what, you'll be doing it over and over. |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 1:39pm
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I been using RV antifreeze, never thought of adding a soluble lube but if it didn't react with the seals and diaphrams I'd think that may work. May try a little water pump lube in the RV antifreeze. ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2021 at 7:47am
| I "winterize" mine with RV antifreeze also. Just can't figure out why 1 boom doesn't turn on like it should. It's interesting that it's the same boom as before, also interesting that it's the first valve in the manifold of valves relating to the direction of flow. All just nothing coincidences I suppose, but maybe interesting. |
Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2021 at 11:25am
I wonder if a water soluble oil would help. Over the years used a lot of Stylet Oil  a organic labeled petroleum oil as a fungicide in the vineyard. I do not remember if it got sticky as it dried. It always reminded me of a cooking oil, as it was that thick but clear. But always mixed with the water very easily. In the sprayer the practice was to wash down the inside of a 300 gal tank with 50 gals of water, spraying it on the field. Then another rinse also sprayed in the field. Then a third rinse running a bit out of the nozzle's, leaving 30 to 50 gals in the sprayer and pump. *** *** We sprayed ever 10 to 21 days from April till July with fungicides. Adding micro nutrients and insecticides as needed. Glad to not be spraying all that anymore.
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Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2021 at 7:07pm
| We use vegetable oil and have tried wd 40 by the gallon. Ours sits in the weather and if not used, always needs to be gone over (don’t think sticking valves have ever been an issue though)Some years less than others. I would think the RV wintering fluid would be better. |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2021 at 9:20pm
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I'd be careful using any petroleum based fluid because of not knowing the seal and diaphram material. If it is viton or Teflon petroleum products may be ok. Epdm does not go well with oil. Sounds like you need to disassemble the valve manifold or install a ball valve to be able to flush out that assembly separately? Good luck winter is comming ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2021 at 8:10am
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RV antifreeze works great in the winterization of sprayers and pressure washers. We have been using it for years. No problems. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2021 at 8:19am
Yeah, I've never used anything petroleum based. I have put vegetable oil in the pump before, but since I switched to flushing RV antifreeze through it, I have not. I got it out of the shed and used it and it was working perfectly fine. About halfway through the season is when I started having trouble, and I clean with Wipeout and flush and rinse between products.
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allisrutledge wrote:Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2021 at 6:01am
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The sticky valve solenoid could be getting weak? If so, then it might require help at turn on? If controls allow, turn on the sticky valve 1st while pump pressure is highest, followed by the remainding valves. I know - kind of a PITA. Or, the sticky valve’s electric lead may be receiving less of a current? If the sticky valve solenoid’s electric lead has a little longer reach or is wired as “3rd in line,” then have someone test each solenoid’s current flow while operator switches them on & off. If current flows are different, then keep testing wires ALL the way back to your cab controller. A mouse could have partially chewed your wire harness or harness could have been pinched somewhere?? |