If it was cost effective, I would use it in a working tractor that I ran regularly, just maybe not a show queen that only went on a off a trailer ever few weeks.  Gas engine trailer queens should have their tanks and complete fuel systems drained and dried between uses along with a desiccant sock in the tank to absorb whatever moister gets in there while being stored.      

   Bio diesel is probably OK if used on a regular basis and not allowed to set for days or weeks in the tank. It just has fewer BTUs per gallon than petroleum diesel and has cold weather issues, that must be dealt with. 

  As with anything, if used as it's intended, there aren't problems.

I can get by with it, as long as I am not doing heavy work.  Hard on rubber parts of the fuel system.  It does have good cleaning qualities.

Not as many BTU's generated as pure gasoline.

I often mix some 100LL into my fuel.  This helps when doing heavy work.

Do not use 100LL in systems with oxygen sensors or cat converters. 

So, we have one guy saying less BTU's generated than pure gasoline, but another uses it for pulling for more HP.  

No wonder I'm confused.

I just run the stuff.  E10 never an issue fuel related that wasn't my stupid fault.  Like the old manuals said "buy clean fuel and keep it clean".

AaronSEIA

And both are true.

A given volume of 100% Ethanol has about 67% of the fuel energy as an equivalent volume of gasoline.  Per gallon, gasoline exhibits around 115,000btu/gal, while ethanol yields 78,000btu.

When a competition engine is built, it's operation is optomized for the specific energy density and combustion profile of a specific fuel.  Once the engine is running in a proper state of tune, the output is determeined by how much fuel and air is crammed in.  To make the ethanol-powered competition engine meet or exceed a gasoline engine, it needs to be fed more.  The contrast, is simply to make the gasoline engine do the same... more fuel, more air, more output.  All the rest, is just details.

The biggest problems with ethanol, is 1) It is voraciously hygroscopic... it draws moisture from the air... and 2) it has propensity to adopt impurities which attack fuel system components.  Neither of these characteristics make it good for ANY long-term storage circumstance.  The hygroscopic nature can be quickly witnessed by pouring a sample into a clear glass jar, poking holes in the lid, capping it, and placing it on a shelf.  As it absorbs water from the air, the LEVEL in the jar will rise as it 'invites' in more moisture.

Contrary to advertisement, ethanol blended fuel isn't 'clean'... it has a propensity to yield a high level of formaldehyde, acetaldehyde, and ground-level ozone.

Yes, aware of these facts, except what I highlighted in red.

Does that not mean, you could still tune and set up a given engine on gasoline to outperform what you just set up on ethanol?

I haven't had problems with modern cars or modern garden tractors with the E10.

I am sure it is more corrosive than pure gas. With the generators or old gas tractors,

I drain the carbs bowl, then I fill with something else. That being WD-40, Marvel, ATF,

fogging oil. I used them all, seems to work, but who knows if I am really helping out.

When time comes to use the equipment, I drain the oil from the bowl, and let gas flow to flush the carb. Has been working for me. However it seems dumb for each owner to invent their own ritual. Somehow in my brain I got the idea that a light oil in the carb would be better than letting it sit dry.

While living in California, I did take a batch of E10 Chevron regular and determined it contained 14% ethanol, not 10%. Right now I can't recall how I did that. But I used to be handy in chemistry and lab techniques.

So my question is, for running E10-E15, if you have a fixed jet carb setup (from the days of real gas), should we drill out the main jet to let it pass more fuel? The area of the jet's hole should be increased by... 5% or so?

Question #2, for any gas tractor, how do you know it is jetted spot on? I have read  half-assed procedures , they all seem so subjective, reading plugs, listening to feel how engine accelerates and things of that nature. Aren't there exhaust gas analyzers?

When I bought my 250 Stihl, I was telling the dealer that the biggest problem I have is that the saw sits unused for long periods of time. On my old saw, it seemed that I was cleaning the carburetor every time I wanted to use it. He recommended using the premixed gas/oil. If I am using it a lot, I sometimes mix my own, but when I am finishing up, I make sure I go back to the premix. 

I also started doing the same thing with my Stihl string trimmer.

Since changing to the premix, I have never had to clean a carburetor. It cost a little more, but it is worth it to me.