Wet carpet stain in finished room.  Yanked out some wall and found source was from long time ago when heat and air folks bored two holes in the wall for geo thermal field (out and in pipes).  So on other entrys and exits I have used hydraulic cement for seal between concrete and PVC pipes.

These pipes/tubes are the black ABS/PVC appearing types.

What type of sealer would you recommend?  Geocel, hydraulic cement, silicon, etc.

I don't want to go back there!

thanx

I'd probably use a tube of windshield urethane, it'll stick to dang near everything BUT allow for a wee be of movement. Anything like 'cement' WILL fracture during freeze/thaw cycles especially when inside pipe is hoter than ground.

Alway best to seal the OUTSIDE of the building, not from the inside. Once the gap between pipe and hole is sealed, then add two layers of 'sticky' membrane material,tight around pipe and 2nd one bigger . This of course should have been done during the install.

If the wall is solid concrete, an 'inside job' is kinda 'ok' BUT of concrete block, you MUST seal from outside. Otherwise water weeps in, flows inside the hollow blocks and ,man it only gets worse.....

I spent 4 hours digging out and refilling a 'pro' job of 'dimple' membrane. Took th e'upset' homeowner 2-3 hours to redo the membrane attachment...PROPERLY....

Learned that I left a lot out of my original post.

This is solid concrete wall.  Oh, and yes the job was done by "professional " installers.

AAAArgh, my 7 plus decades ole back is not up to the 5 foot dig outside.

This is on the side of the house where no run off, gutters, or down soouts exist.

Think I will scab it it since the original install got me 20 years down the road.

jay, where should I cheek first for the windshield urethane?

Going to Amazon right now. 

bingo, lots of it there!

FREEDGUY wrote: The professionals "here" use a 2 part epoxy injected into the source of the leak from the interior side of the basement

good thought there.   had a big adz crack in a basement wall done that way (commercially).  Turned out great and permanent.

since you're doing 'an inside job',if you can blow compressed air into the crack around the pipe, to get rid of 'stuff'. When you cut the end off the tube of sticky(were gloves !!), make a small hole, so that it'll 'inject' as far into the 'void' as possible.

OK, gloves help but you'll get some on you anyway......

If you have loose soles on some shoes, use the sticky on them ! In fact , get a  few jobs lined up and do all at once. Kinda like sprayfoam cans...I find it an all or nothing. o ALL the jobs cause a month layer NOTHING wil be coming outta the tube !

It's great at mending car bumpers.....

From the inside, he removed all the old material he could get out. He used some kind of latex material that came in large caulking gun tubes. He said it had to be something that had some flexibility (because of the freeze/thaw cycles like Jay was talking about). 

So far, the worst I have seen is a little moisture weeping around the pipe one spring when we had a very hard rain when there was still a lot of snow on the ground and there was a lot of flooding.

Well i finally got down to the nitty gritty after running a fan and dehumidifier for a few days.

Cut the foam rubber insulation back (split it) and gazed at how the pipes were run thru the wall.

Dayun, just drilled holed and ran the pipes, no sealant visible.

So I  think a judicious inside caulk/seal job from the inside will get me down down the road to you know where. 

Good luck Dave.  I used to tell people when we were pouring these walls that the only way it would leak was if some knuckle head put a hole in it.

Yep, a small hole in the tube and then hope it doesn't rain for a few days.  You should be fine then.  Leave the cement open for at least a week for it to dry well and then put your wall back together.