Now I'm thinking you got some bad DEVILED EGGS for your dinner  .

Wish I had a small inverter generator. 

That's very true, unless you can't get them started  . 

Hope you guys had a great Easter  !!

Unless you've had triple bypass surgery like my dad, 1 pull is too many  . All of his small engines are either electric start OR completely electric ( cordless is a joke IMO) except for his HUSKIE saw that has compression release, still takes him 3-4 pulls to start when cold .

  I know of several pro tree removal- trimmers and they would agree with Steve 1000 percent.  

    None better then Stihl's for power and reliability, Echo, well.

Almost as bad as which oil.......

Oh yeah, I have two Huskvarnas and they both start on the second pull.

If I saw for 10 minutes, still have gas in the tank, shut off the switch, IMMEDIATELY pull the cord........I MIGHT get it started on the second pull, but probably not.  Probably 4-6 in that case.

Stihl, Husquvarna, Echo, Solo, Dolmar, Shindaiwa, Makita... all have 'professional-grade' saws.  I'd recommend ANY of them, unless you're cutting concrete, cast iron, or steel fabrication, then go with ICS.

A plastic crankcase identifies a 'cheap' saw.  Drop them in the cold, they crack. 

What identifies a 'professional-grade' saw?  There's differing opinions, but the acid test of a pro-grade saw:

   --If you can call a local dealer and get a new crankcase seal, or a replacement carb, fuel lines, fuel pickup tube kit, or a chain-oiler rebuild kit on a WEEKDAY, it's a professional-grade saw.  If you can get it on a WEEKEND, you have a GREAT DEALER!!!

Cracked crankcases leak, and the crankcase is a critical part of a 2-stroke's induction system... it provides the vacuum which pulls fuel-air mix in, and forces it into the cylinder.  With the universality of electronic ignition, 90% of all modern saws fail either from being run with bad fuel (saturated ethanol or improper/insufficient 2-stroke oil) or failure of crankcase seal.

NO chainsaw will start worth a hoot if the fuel system isn't kept clean.  EVERY chainsaw will start if it has a clean fuel system, good compression, and an operable starter.  A well-maintained saw ALWAYS starts well.

PROFESSIONAL_GRADE Chainsaws that don't start well, fail not because of the color of their paint, or country of origin, but because the contents of the gloves holding the saw have not been properly applied to maintaining the machine.

McCulloch was at one time, the primo saw.  Not so today... that brand, and many other once-great names have been relegated to the big-box-store shelves for under $200... have plastic crankcases, and no dealer to support them.  They're disposable.  They get bought by people who don't know, used once, and thrown away when they won't start three years later.  Big-box companies love them... why sell you one saw, when they could sell you one saw every three years?

McCulloch had an electric start saw with a battery... cool idea, but problematic THEN.  Today, it's totally possible, and would be cool for SOME saws, but still, a LIGHT saw, is a good saw.

ECHO made a TWO CYLINDER small chainsaw.  The CST-610 EVL...  The 'EViL Twin'... definitely a collector's piece for those so inclined...  John Deere sourced MANY of theirs through Echo, and they sold the EVL as the '66SV'.  if you have one, hang onto it.

Chainsaw carbeurators all pretty much have the same design lineage.  The carb doesn't use a float bowl, it uses a diaphragm and spring.  It has a similar diaphragm and spring that receives impulse pressure from either the crankcase, or the exhaust port, to pump fuel from the tank to the carb.  There's a very fine-mesh screen on the fuel inlet into the carb.  If all this is clean, they WILL pump fuel, but expect to pull the cord a half-dozen to dozen times to get fuel from the tank into the carb.  If you expect it to start on first pull, it is because you're expecting fuel to be stagnant inside the carb, which is NOT a good thing.

Use good FRESH gasoline, good oil, keep it clean.  Empty it out when done.  Clean the saw up thorougly when done using.  Give it a complete refresh of fuel and oil lines, pickups, and a carb kit every two-three seasons, and keep the chains sharp.

Yep, heard it, read it, learned it, lived it......And when I'm frustrated enough with the starting, it goes to the dealer, get "professionally serviced", carb cleaned, carb adjusted, tuned, plugs, air filter, blah blah blah blah blah, and it starts in 8-10 pulls, just like when it was BRAND NEW, brought it home, put new nonE gas, right out of the pump mixed with Stihl synthetic 2 stroke oil.

But if you say so.

I sort of always thought it had to do with emissions, they got stuff so leaned out it will hardly run.  There is virtually 0 smoke running the saw.  

But apparently, it must be the thing with the saw.....Because whether it's my "gloves" that maintain it, or either of the 2 mechanics at the dealer, that's the best it ever gets.

My Sthil started that way from new until I figured out how to start it . 1-2 pulls full choke, then 1//2 choke and it always starts next pull, or max of 2 pulls. Pretty sure I was flooding it, in my case it was the "gloves" operating it that needed educated. 

Bill