What Screwdriver to Use for Carb Jets?
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Topic: What Screwdriver to Use for Carb Jets?
Posted By: snaglak
Subject: What Screwdriver to Use for Carb Jets?
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 12:24pm
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I have a zenith Carburetor from a Allis WD which I am cleaning and rebuilding. I have most of the bits off except the jets. Looking at the slots in the jets I saw pretty quickly that the old junk drawer four-in-one screwdriver was not the thing to use and I haven't really seen any screwdrivers that would have a good fit in any of the box stores. Is anyone able to tell me what screwdrivers work best for these jets? Any other tips on getting jets out would be appreciated. I'm thinking a lot of penetrating oil and a map gas torch are a good start.
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Replies:
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 12:44pm
I'm laid up right now but the one that worked 90% of the time for me was a Craftsman, about 6" long and the blade, i'd have to guess would be ..... let me see if I can get out to the shop and get the Craftsman number off it. I need to move around anyhow. It's one of my favorite screw drivers. That and the big Craftsman I have too. Be right back
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I am a Russian Bot
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 1:09pm
The number is scarred over but I believe it's 41589. It's a 1/8" blade, the overall length including the handle is about 6". It's one ofe my most used screwdrivers and when I do carb work it is the one I use for the small jets.
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I am a Russian Bot
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 1:13pm
I prefer the craftsman set of screw drivers I heve over any of my other brand X. Some things I don't like about Craftsman but the screwdrivers hold their edge better than the cheap stuff so you have a better chance at not ruining the slot in the brass jets. Good luck
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I am a Russian Bot
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Posted By: Larry in NC
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 1:24pm
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Before you try to to remove with a screwdriver, heat the jets with a small propane or MAPP torch. That will free them up and they will come out easily. A little too much pressure with a screwdriver and the brass will strip out.
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 2:17pm
I've never stripped one out and use a screwdriver similar to what Lonn uses. Just stick your screwdrivers in the slot until you find one that fits best. There is a little bit of force needed to break it loose. Don't worry, just make sure you have the screwdriver at the same angle as the jet.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Posted By: C in Concord
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 3:06pm
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I've been less fortunate than John and have broken a couple jets now. Haven't had any issues when using penetrating oil... The longer you can give it the better, especially the discharge tube. The early Zeniths have threads at the bottom, so the tube can twist and break easily. I haven't found a source for that jet either, Sandy Lake couldn't find one. So, I had to harvest from a donor carb. Ben
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Leave things better than you found them.
1941 Model C (restored 2020)
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 5:41pm
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In many cases, jets that haven't been removed correctly with the correct tool, are usually the ones that are gonna be tough! I have so many screwdrivers that I've ground to fit super tight into different jets. If someone would've used the CORRECT driver in the first place there wouldn't be to much of a problem removing them. Heat does help sometimes depending on where the jet is located. Sometimes deep well jets are a bear to get at. Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 6:53pm
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I know 2 things... One is that you need a SNUG fitting screwdriver. So make/modify/sacrifice a screwdriver to be a 'carb only' tool ! Nice ,clean straight edges..snug tight fit..left-right and flat bottom.
Two, press DOWN and turn at the same time,with a quick jerk. Everytime I've done that 'DOWN' and turn, the jet has come out in ONE piece. It might be that it keeps the SNUG fitting tip in the slot and not 'ride up' when you turn the screwdriver handle.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2021 at 7:10pm
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When I worked as an auto mechanic back in the 70's we had carb jet tools. They look like a screwdriver with a round bump in the middle of the blade to keep it from sliding and buggering up the slot. I just checked you can still get them from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PL7XFA/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PL7XFA/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Posted By: snaglak
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 8:48pm
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Thanks everyone for the tool suggestions and tips! Time for me to go learn by doing 😀
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Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 8:51pm
The best thing to use is the hollow ground bits for for drill drives. The thickest one that will fit.
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2021 at 7:27am
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Dick L had a post on, a while back, about boiling a carburetor before rebuilding it. It's the best bit of advice, about rebuilding a carb, I have ever received.
I have an old hot plate, from when our kitchen was being redone, that I use, along with an old saucepan (pot) that I rescued from being thrown out. I usually take the bowl off the carb and remove the float. Everything else is submerged in water. I bring it to a boil and let it boil for about 3 minutes, then shut it off.
As soon as it is cool enough that I can handle it (with gloves), I disassemble it. I can't believe how easy they come apart this way. Not only do they come apart easier, but it loosens all the hardened buildup and makes cleaning easier.
My thanks to Dick L !
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