This looks to be an original B drawbar, but it doesn't look like everything needed to get it in working form on the tractor.

vertical braces below

attachment bracket / pin for each side into final drive case 

Good Luck!

Bill Long

Thanks, Bill.

I'll keep everyone appraised on the progress.  I may be able to manufacture the seat frame brackets, if I can't find them.

It was really good to find this, as I have noticed they are very hard to come by. Ended up paying $419 for it, $80 of which was shipping. The seller allowed me to work out payments over the last few months. 

I still need to get to the hydraulics, but the tractor has drug a couple of big oak and pine logs to a place for proper cutting. It will be nice to have a hitch setup so I can drag my trailer to the mulch pile, or to where I need to pick up wood to burn, instead of logging a wheelbarrow across half of the county just to get what I need to the other side of the county 

What if one doesn't have the seat rail support brackets? Are they essential?

Would you be flirting with a broken final drive casting if using the draw bar without them? Any stories?

You can make the hanger straps from various things.. I have one tractor that has like 1.5 x .25 inch strap .... i have one that has  turnbuckles someone obviously bought at the hard ware store.......... and i have one that has 1/2 inch allthread.... Probably costs $10.... i think a lot of guys decided the "needed" the anchors and  "home made" them.  The "standard" drawbar did not include the straps...the "ASAE" did... PULLING is ok... If you want to put down pressure on the bar ( trailer hitch, etc), then add some type of straps.

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Somebody manufactured the pin assemblies on both sides. I was able to get the threaded cap bolts out with no issue, but the clamp pin is another issue altogether. 

Here's what the situation is. First picture is what was on the tractor. Second picture is the right side final drive unit, and the clamp pin, or what looks like is left of it. Both sides are the same. They're not coming out, and both look to have been broken. Were I able to get the drawbar on, it would suffice, but that's not happening. The old farmerized drawbar was either purchased (or manufactured) with this setup in mind, or when it was installed, something broke on the clamp and somebody improvised. 

All guesses on my part, obviously. Only way I can see to get that out, is to cut and drill. It's not budging, and I don't think it would be a good idea to heat it with what would be necessary to break it. Unless I'm missing something.  I'm open to suggestions. 

 I think i would try to grind the outside 1/2 inch of the pin and make it square. Get an impact stocket and impact gun and try to BUDGE it... I think some heat would be OK.. Not much there you can hurt........... If all else fails, you can cut if off flush, then drill a 1/4 inch hole thru the center of the pin, then keep going up in size until your NEW pin fits.

if you look at your NEW PIN/ BOLT ......(BELOW)..... it does look like the guy cut the ARM off and left the PIN in the hole.... I have seen quite a few TIGHT ones.. I have sprayed with penetrant like you, then beat on the arm trying to TWIST it .. and have the arm break off... HEAT is normally your friend, and impact  will help instead of hammer.

I'm a novice at welding, but my MIG only works effectively up to 1/4 inch stuff. My neighbor welds and has a better setup, so that's an option. 

I already started cutting the pin, but left enough to work with on both drives. Enough to grind it square and put an impact on it. Good idea. My neighbor and I are coming up with a plan. He has an oxy setup, and we're going to explore heating it. If all else fails, your idea to grind it flat, then bit by bit ream it out is where I'll go.

I've got two new pins on order and also found the brace set mentioned earlier in this thread, and got a set. 

It's going to be a hoot, trying to grind those plugs square, not slipping and "decorating" the inside drive housing with "character" scars. 

Well, you could have decades ago... By the time I got it, the threads had rusted too much and I had to just cut it off. Anyways, I thought it was a good idea.

But, you couldn't do that until you got the existing pins out, so that doesn't help much right now.

Sooooo.... it was drill baby drill. 

Finally got it done yesterday. Using a battery run drill and a power drill, finally got both sides deep enough to put in the new clamps. The power drill broke away from me a couple of times. Sore hand notwithstanding, that could break one's hand, considering the angle one has to work to drill in that area. 

I previewed the support braces and there is a gap of 1/4 - 1/2 inch at the top, so that's the next hurdle. 

looks like raising the drawbar might close that gap. 

Could that be a side effect of not having stabilizer braces?