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Allis B grounding location

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=176312
Printed Date: 28 Jul 2025 at 12:08pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Allis B grounding location
Posted By: cdsloop
Subject: Allis B grounding location
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2020 at 11:00pm
I have a 1950 B (positive ground 6v) that I'm slowly getting back into shape. My end goal is not a "factory correct expo quality restoration" but rather a working parade tractor that is reliable, functional, and mostly correct. With that said, I have purchased the materials to make new battery cables that will hopefully solve my sluggish starter condition. I think that I read the factory ground was on the pipe riser for the steering support. I also read that the pipe threads can sometimes become corroded and impede the ground. I was thinking about running the ground wire down to the mounting bolt of the battery box on the torque tube. I also have enough wire to run it all the way down to the starter if that would be better. What have others done that has been successful? Pics would be great. 1/0 welding cable and copper lugs purchased. High quality battery ends too. All will be soldered. Thanks in advance!


Replies:
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2020 at 7:56am
Not a "B" but our '53 WD had a flat braided cable/wire that went to one of the cap screws that bolted the battery to the torque tube. There was a long flat notch in the side of the box it went threw.

Dusty


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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"

Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2020 at 8:19am

You are on the right track to be using 1/0 welding cable to fabricate new Starter and Grounding Battery Cables.

Another important factor is that pointed bolt and locknut that holds the Starter in place.

That bolt and nut is part of the 'Starter' Grounding point, and must be clean and tight.

G

Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2020 at 8:45am
The battery box mounts with 4 little bolts to the torque tube.. It also has like a 3/8 bolt that goes thru the PIPE stand and the battery cable can mount to that.. If you think the PIPE threads are rusted, then picture the current going thru the  3/8 bolt, thru the battery box itself, and grounded to the torque tube thru those 4 small bolts... I have never removed the PIPE stand to clean the threads, and i have never had a bad grounding problem by putting the strap on the 3/8 battery box bolt to the PIPE.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.

Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2020 at 9:39am
Being an electrical guy for the past 50 years, I never thought anchoring a Battery ground to a pipe was a good idea. To me, a nice flat area would make a better ground. Although it worked for years where they grounded it. The Torque tube would be a pretty good place to ground it, or to a nice clean spot on the Bellhousing area. Its always good to make sure the grounding rings and where the Starter motor mounts, that the grounds are clean & solid. The 6VPG system relies on its grounds to function properly. 1/0 cables are a bit overkill, but in that department, bigger couldn't hurt.  One gauge cable would be the norm for 6V systems. Running the cable to the Starter motor is always a good idea to insure a ground providing the Battery was far away. In this case, the Battery is right next door to the Starter, so it wouldn't be needed. On Streetrods and Race cars that I've wired over the years, when the Battery is located at the rear of the vehicle, such as in the trunk or frame rail mounted, running a ground to the frame rail as well as running a ground cable parrallel with the hot cable up to the Starter utilizing one of the Starter bolts to anchor your ground to, insures a good ground to the Starter motor. I usually install a aux. ground from that anchor bolt to the frame rail right where the Starter is to make a grounding loop. The problem with the early AC Tractors is the Starter motors are not bolted to the engine or bellhousing limiting a place to put a good Starter ground.  The pinch bolt is all you have, and I wouldn't use the pinch bolt for a grounding anchor.  HTH
Steve@B&B


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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

Posted By: cdsloop
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2020 at 3:34pm
Just an update.  I fabricated the new cables and routed my ground to one of the bolts holding the steering box to the torque tube.  I removed the steering box in order to clean the surfaces of all rust and old paint with a flap disc, and cleaned the bolts on the bench grinder wire wheel to ensure clean connections everywhere.  The sluggish starter disappeared, and it starts better now than I ever remember.  Next on the list is to tidy up the rest of the wiring.  Progress is being made!

Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2020 at 4:51pm

Yup

Clean and tight connections along with heavy cables are an absolute necessity with a 6 volt starting system.


Even then a D-14 could sometimes leave something to be desired.

G


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