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95 Chevy oil cooler line

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=175591
Printed Date: 19 May 2024 at 11:04pm
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Topic: 95 Chevy oil cooler line
Posted By: Lars(wi)
Subject: 95 Chevy oil cooler line
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 5:59pm
Hey guys, one of the lines on the oil cooler on the 95 Suburban pulled out at the connection by the oil filter. 350 block, do I need to replace the whole line, or just that plastic/nylon insert?
Good thing I was at a stop light when I noticed zero oil pressure,

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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.



Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 6:59pm
does the fitting look like this ?  you can buy new fittings if the tube is not damaged.




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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 7:01pm
i dont know how it would PULL OUT ?  You might check engine mounts and look for excessive movement between the motor and the cooler ?

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 7:19pm
Exactly like the pic, the tube appears ok, will get a better look tomorrow. The radiator was replaced last summer, if I’m not mistaken the oil lines were also.

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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.


Posted By: fixer1958
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 6:02am
If I'm not mistaken those lines are supposed to be clamped to the block to keep that from happening. I've seen that happen before cause they weren't. Those plastic clips won't hold up to flexing from vibration.


Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 6:15am
Yes, there is a clamp, kinda have a feeling that clamp may not have been tight enough.
The lines turn 90* up to the radiator, that is the portion of the lines that are hose, not metal.

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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.


Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 6:29am
The tube ends are Oring sealed where the White Plastic part is the Lock clip, squeeze the two ears toward the tube to unlatch then replace oring and do secure the line so does not wiggle and will stop leaking.


Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 6:47am
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

The tube ends are Oring sealed where the White Plastic part is the Lock clip, squeeze the two ears toward the tube to unlatch then replace oring and do secure the line so does not wiggle and will stop leaking.

The tube blew completely out of the fitting, probably should replace both clips, and o-rings as long as I’m there, and completely filthy with oil covered underside. (lol)

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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 8:56am
you said the cooler was worked on a couple years ago... Either the clamp was left loose, or the guy might have PULLED the line out of the nylon clip and damaged it so it will not hold properly.. Either way, i would also be temped to change out the entire fitting... they dont cost much.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 10:38am
Thumbs Up  To both last two comments!!


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 8:04pm
Also check your oil pressure after the new fitting is replaced. Abnormally high pressure might mean relief valve is plugged or bad.  Also check the OPSU, if its high.  if its low or a manual gauge oscillates, you coulda cooked your cam bearings because of low pressure(no oil)...  I hadda Dodge v-10 that had an OPSU, that swelled up real big, and I just happened to see it, so it never had a blow out issue, cause I replaced it, in time!

This is generic advice, but find a forum that is just for a chebbies, and ask the question, might be a specific cause and solution, that someone there has gone through, before...Wink


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Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 9:16pm
I changed out both fittings. The guy at the parts counter seemed to think those were the original fittings, the degree of discoloration in his opinion the repair crew last year put the new lines into the old fittings.

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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.


Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 10:29am
You can buy just the fittings and clips there are no clamps.the fittings get corroded and the spring clips come out the new fitting will have new o rings in them. I've changed them on my wife's van and my diesel Chevy pickup. Hers blew while driving to work she saw the oil pressure drop to zero and shut it off. Put two quarts in it starts it up and saw the geyser of oil and called me. She drove the van another 100 k miles before it blew a head gasket. And we scrapped it


Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2020 at 2:29am
usually it's the line that leaks, replace it with a hyd hose, as new lines usually leak too. dealers won't do the hyd hose thing, cuz it would solve the problem and they wouldn't make any money on it. replaced my line on my '97 and it leaks no more. hyd hose will take the vibes and outlast us!


Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2020 at 2:44pm
I replaced the fittings and clips, $8.50 ish each, but what a messy pain in the rumper of a job, even with front end up on ramps, just got no room for nuthin up under there. Took 4 qts.

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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.



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