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Gleaner E

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=175477
Printed Date: 15 Aug 2025 at 12:38pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Gleaner E
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Subject: Gleaner E
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2020 at 2:02pm

This was a couple weeks ago running beans. The Trimpe bars are a huge improvement. You can see the difference in the modified rebuilt bars and the originals. I can’t speak to how it would have done before on beans because this was my first time ever running beans. He told me that it probably would be fine slowing the cylinder down a bit so I was still running the corn sprocket with the variable speed wide open. It did the trick, no more ground up beans, and ran pretty clean.
I did put the corn head back on it and took it to the CAPOOT picking day and it did an excellent job on corn. Whole cobs out the back, no trash in the bin, and no corn out the back. The speed limitation was not engine power or separator capacity, it was the snapping rolls. I could run in 2nd and about 1/3 open on the variable speed before the right side would bunch up, the left would let me run wide open on the variable speed. I’ll have the spirals built up and maybe new blades on the rolls for next year.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford



Replies:
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2020 at 3:12pm
Guy i used to work for had an E,, that combine ran over alot of acres,, nice machine


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2020 at 3:44pm
E Gleaners just go and go and go


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Wink
I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2020 at 4:59pm
Brian what engine is in it? WD45 engine?

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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2020 at 9:03pm
Your old bars have been run a way to hi. Let cylinder down to 1/4.          MACK


Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2020 at 9:33pm
Do you have the clips that bolt to the top of the snapping rolls. New ones make a great difference feeding the stalks thru the rolls.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2020 at 10:10pm
Warning on changing blades on old orange flat chain heads. The blocks are ALUMINUM!!!! and fine thread. Easy to be "one and done". I have a few new blades I didn't install. 2 boxes...maybe 8 pieces? You can have them for shipping. I would leave well enough alone and weld edges up. Next best is have new steel blocks made. I learned why some of my blades were welded to each other. Just saying be careful with what you do.
My A2 bars were like that. I ran a 1/2 bead in the center  twice then welded full rib with hard surface. Did every other rib like the Trimpe's and let the others to wear. Did 80A for 19yrs.Wink


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2020 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Your old bars have been run a way to hi. Let cylinder down to 1/4.          MACK
At 1/4” it was grinding the beans to bits. It also wouldn’t feed evenly. I was having trouble with it plugging about every 10 yards. Opening helped, but not enough. I’d get bunches going through then I’d get beans left in the pods. The new bars fixed all that.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2020 at 12:26pm
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

Warning on changing blades on old orange flat chain heads. The blocks are ALUMINUM!!!! and fine thread. Easy to be "one and done". I have a few new blades I didn't install. 2 boxes...maybe 8 pieces? You can have them for shipping. I would leave well enough alone and weld edges up. Next best is have new steel blocks made. I learned why some of my blades were welded to each other. Just saying be careful with what you do.
My A2 bars were like that. I ran a 1/2 bead in the center  twice then welded full rib with hard surface. Did every other rib like the Trimpe's and let the others to wear. Did 80A for 19yrs.Wink
When you say the blocks are aluminum, which ones are you meaning? The plan is to just build the auger like ends up without removing them from the header. Is this not possible?

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2020 at 8:12pm
the blades I'm referring to are behind the spiral snouts. I would suppose you can weld in place. Try to get a good ground on the point? so no silly stray current tries to mess with the bearings at back.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2020 at 8:56pm
Originally posted by Brian Jasper co. Ia Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote:

Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Your old bars have been run a way to hi. Let cylinder down to 1/4.          MACK
At 1/4” it was grinding the beans to bits. It also wouldn’t feed evenly. I was having trouble with it plugging about every 10 yards. Opening helped, but not enough. I’d get bunches going through then I’d get beans left in the pods. The new bars fixed all that.
The old bars did that because they were worn out. I'd run the news ones at 1/4" like MACK said to prevent premature wear.

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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2020 at 9:00pm
You was grinding beans because cylinder had been run too hi, which wore crown off bars to where was no angle to pull material through. Which will happen to new ones if they are ran hi.            MACK



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