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Wisconsin Engine

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=174364
Printed Date: 28 Apr 2024 at 2:23pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Wisconsin Engine
Posted By: NDBirdman
Subject: Wisconsin Engine
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2020 at 5:20pm
I just had the top of a piston come off in a Wisconsin AEN engine.  No damage other than the top of the piston.  Looks like it cracked/separated around the bottom oil ring.  I can find a piston on fleece-bay, NOS but it list them as DB-209-5 S10, S20, etc.  The parts manual calls it a DB-209-5.  What is the S10 or 20, etc? 
Engine ran great until this, was rebuilt before I received it 8 yrs back, have ran probably 40-50 hours a year on a log splitter.

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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT



Replies:
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2020 at 6:45pm
I’m guessing the s10 and s 20 are oversized bored 10 or 20 over.


Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2020 at 11:31pm
they run the best...just before they blow!


Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 10:44am
agree on the oversize


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http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/


Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 4:25pm
And a tuff job to start when they are cold, and a miserable s.o.b.,piece of sh~t, hunk of junk, to start when they are hot.

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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.


Posted By: NDBirdman
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 7:03pm
Hmmm, mine always started right up, cold or hot.  Never missed a beat until splitting the piston.  It has outlasted several briggs and scrap'ums.  It's either fix it, or replace it with a piece of HF china junk predator.....  I'd rather fix this thing.  I've read the 10 and 20 means oversize but the piston in mine only has a *0* stamped on top, I am guessing that means stock?


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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT


Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 7:31pm
Originally posted by NDBirdman NDBirdman wrote:

Hmmm, mine always started right up, cold or hot.  Never missed a beat until splitting the piston.  It has outlasted several briggs and scrap'ums.  It's either fix it, or replace it with a piece of HF china junk predator.....  I'd rather fix this thing.  I've read the 10 and 20 means oversize but the piston in mine only has a *0* stamped on top, I am guessing that means stock?

I’d say you’re correct.


Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2020 at 5:52am
Out of necessity and being maybe kinda frugal, but I have run several of those predators.

i can't knock them, they all have served me well.

As far as the Briggs and Scrappins, I have got good service out of the I/C ones also  Have one of the old twin opposed flat heads that has been chugging along for over 20 years.

I donno. Confused


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 7:04pm
Originally posted by Lars(wi) Lars(wi) wrote:

And a tuff job to start when they are cold, and a miserable s.o.b.,piece of sh~t, hunk of junk, to start when they are hot.
My first experience with those POS engines , I was a teenager working for a fellow baling straw one summer. The V4 had a flat pulley welded where the hand crank should have gone. In the morning he would unhitch the Farmall M from the Super 66 baler and use the Ms belt pully to start the ba$t**d Wisconsin. It took about a minute to fire on the 1st cylinder then after a bit the 2nd would kick in, then a 3rd and finally it would be running on all 4.  I was always told to be sure that it's tank was full at the beginning of lunch break, because if it ran out of gas it wouldn't start again until it fully cooled.  


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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 8:13pm
When I was growing up my dad had one on a Case A6 pull type combine. I was too little to have to help get it fired up every summer for oats harvest thank the Lord. I recall learning some new vocabulary from my older brothers who were stuck with that job. It had a hand crank - no electric start - and it sat outside year round as we were not fortunate enough to have a shed for it. The crank handle was only about 8 inches long and it had a nasty tendency to slip off, there was a piece of angle iron about 2 inches from the bottom of the crank rotation and it would bust their knuckles every chance it could. It was another one of those engines you didn't dare let run out of gas or it would be a good 2 hours before she'd think about firing again. A real P.O.S.  I guess she did serve us for a long time though until one day she got hot and locked up tighter than a nun's vagina. But instead of retiring the combine my dad found another used Wisconsin to put on there. Oh the memories.

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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2


Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2020 at 10:17am
Many years ago I had a welder powered by one of those dang engines.  Hand crank only.  The crank used to stick occasionally on the crankshaft and make a few revolutions before it got thrown off.  When it did that you ducked and got out of the way as you never knew which direction it was goin' to fly! . 

Thing would never start hot either, although the welder itself was a good unit.

Had the whole rig set up in the box of an old '51 Dodge pickup.  Early days as a rig welder!



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