D17 crankshaft installation
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=174279
Printed Date: 18 Jul 2025 at 4:34pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D17 crankshaft installation
Posted By: Doobletango
Subject: D17 crankshaft installation
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 2:41pm
|
I’m replacing the crankshaft on my D17 with a used one I picked up off here. It came with all the bearings for a really good deal. I got it in last night, used an assembly lube on the main bearings. It turns tighter than I expected it to. I had to use a pipe wrench on the crankshaft to turn it and even then it was really hard. So, how hard is too hard? It was late enough last night that I didn’t take one of the mains off to check the bearing surfaces. I’ll check it tonight, I just don’t want to ruin this crankshaft. |
Replies:
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 2:53pm
|
Sounds like its too tight. Torque only one journal at a time, then turn crank to check if its binding. Mains first then rods. Plastigauge would tell your clearance. Also you might have main caps 1 & 2 switched. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 3:54pm
| For a novice without plasti-gauge, I'd have suggested doing a quick assembly without the rear seal installed. No grease on the bearings. Only oil. It should turn very free without the rear seal installed and main caps positioned correctly and torqued up to spec. |
Posted By: Doobletango
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 4:35pm
| Thanks for the input guys. I’ll check tonight. When I took the main caps off I laid them in a cabinet in the order I took them off. Is there a way to tell what goes where? I know the one by the flywheel has the extra groove for the two piece seal. I believe it’s the thrust bearing (with the extra lip) that goes in the middle. Does this sound correct? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 4:49pm
| Thrust brg is in the center on that engine, yes. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2020 at 8:49pm
| When you torque them, did you tighten left to right little at a time until they were torqued down or torque left then right? Make sure bearing cap is not turned around. All bearing tabs go on same side. MACK |
Posted By: Doobletango
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 10:06am
|
I just torqued one cap at a time. Didn’t really do anything specific sees that. When you say left to right, do you mean tighten each on individually left to right, or all the caps on the left first then all the right ones? |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 10:10am
| I think he means tighten evenly as you go...not one all the way first. |
Posted By: Acdiesel
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 10:45am
|
you can always check out a video on YouTube, but use caution there's a lot of hacks on there as well ------------- D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3 2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger) |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 10:51am
| Tighten the two bolts on one cap at a time and check to see if the crank is tight on that location. If not, go onto the next cap. |
Posted By: Doobletango
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 12:08pm
| What do I do if it tightens on one bearing? Is that a sign of needing a different bearing? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 12:10pm
| Well, you start by removing the bearing shells and inspecting the info on the backside of them. You might have a -.020" shell where it is supposed to be a -.010". |
Posted By: Doobletango
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 12:26pm
Gotcha 
|
Posted By: Doobletango
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 12:37pm
|
Gotcha
|
Posted By: Doobletango
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 5:05pm
|
So I went through and cleaned the pre assembly lube from all the journals and verified the back of each bearing to make sure it said .010”. I’m going in small increments, starting with 20 ft. lbs of torque on each cap. The one I’m calling the rear one (closest to the flywheel) torques down as well as the middle bearing. Crank turns freely at this point. When I tighten the front cap the crank gets tighter. I could see some shiny marks on the bearing when I took it off to clean it. I guess I’ll pull the crank and verify the main journals, something I meant to do when I had it out this last time. Any other thoughts?? |
Posted By: lowell66dart
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 5:18pm
|
Now your on the right track. Good luck. ------------- AC 6080 (8030,7060,200,175,D-17HC, 6040,160,6140 all gone) Farmall 1066 & 656 Hi-Clear (for sale), White 2-62 High Clearance, JD 4255 Hi Clear. |
Posted By: Doobletango
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 5:22pm
| Does it matter that I have the cam already installed? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 5:35pm
| If the crankshaft "grinder" didn't press the crank gear off 1/4" before grinding, he might not have got that front main journal ground perfectly, so if that's the tight one and the shiny marks on the bearing shells are at the front of the bearing shells, he didn't do the grinding correctly. I'm just sayin...…….. |
Posted By: Doobletango
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2020 at 7:45pm
| Yep, that’s what happened...there’s just enough of a ridge right up against the crankshaft gear..... |